LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



i^Hp. Gapj|ng|i 1)^.- 



Slielf 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 




W^m.-^^-"- 



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W|Y JOUpY TO JEI^U^ALEM 



INCLUDING 



TRAVELS IN ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, FRANCE, 

BELGIUM, GERMANY, HOLLAND, SWITZERLAND, 

ITALY, GREECE, TURKEY, PALESTINE, 

AND EGYPT 



y 



BY REV. NATHAN HUBBELL 



v^ si 



" How hast thou purchased this experience ? By my journey of observation." 
^-Shakespeare . 

" Walk about Zion, and go round about her: tell the towers thereof. Mark ye 
well her bulwarks, consider her palaces ; that ye may tell it to the generation fol- 
lowing." — David. 



■WITH 64 ILLUSTRATIONS 

NEW YORK 

PRINTED BY HUNT & EATON 

X60 Fifth Avenue 

x8go 



S%1 



Copyright 1890, by 
liTATII^N- HTJBBEIjIj- 

NEW YORK. 



PREFACE. 



" T^O you believe in ghosts, Mr. Coleridge?" in- 
]_J quired a timid lady of that renowned and 
dreamy philosopher. " Madam," replied the poet, 
with great dignity, " I have seen too many ghosts in 
my day to believe in them." 

The specious and morbid specters of doubt, want, 
and suspicion, in tlieir multiform aspects, are still dis- 
turbers of the popular mind, not to name other dis- 
mal forebodings, whether believed in or not. Though 
well-nigh a life-long contributor to the department 
of periodical literature, besides much editorial labor, 
the author is not entirely devoid of interest concern- 
ing the possible financial fate that awaits this his 
first volume. 

Geology graphically describes seven creative ages 
which characterized the formative processes of the 
earth, including notably the Azoic, Silurian, and 
Devonian. History alludes also to the ages of stone 
and iron, besides the dark and golden ages in the 
progress of civilization. Now, unfortunately, the 



2 PREFACE. 

age of fiction environs us. Vendors of the vitiating 
virus follow the unhappy tourist in his journeyings 
with the persistence of a sleuth-hound ; it dominates 
the center-table and Sunday-school library, not un- 
frequently to the utter exclusion of standard works. 
Mr. Longfellow truthfully and epigrammatically as- 
serts that " Many readers judge of the power of a 
book by the shock it gives their feelings, as some 
savage tribes determine the power of their muskets 
by their recoil, that being considered the best which 
prostrates the purchaser." 

However, the Chautauquan and other modern ed- 
ucational movements have done much to turn the 
popular mind into soberer channels of thought. It 
is hoped that My Journey to Jerusalem may serve, 
in some degree at least, to facilitate the good work. 

The book should not be confounded with exhaust- 
ive works on Palestine, since the writings of the Rev. 
Drs. W. M. Thomson, J. W. Mendenhall, H. B. 
Ridgaway, Bishop Newman, the Rev. Dr. F. S. 
De Hass, and others leave little if any thing to be 
desired. This is not its design. It is simply what 
its title implies, an account of the journey, its sights 
and significations, Avith personal impressions and ad- 
ventures. 

The trip to Jerusalem was made with the Fall 



PREFACE. 3 

Palestine party, in 1889, organized by the writer; 
though space has been reserved for a description of 
other portions of Europe not included in the later 
itinerary, visited by him during a preliminary tour 
three years before. My original intention of furnish- 
ing also an account of four distinct visits to Canada 
in the present volume has been finally abandoned, 
since the size and expense of the work would be 
largely increased. 

A large portion of the book was written while 
traveling in distant lands, as the several countries 
were passing in panoramic view befoj'e me. Nearly 
all of it has appeared in the form of foreign letters 
in tlie New Haven (Conn.) Daily Journal and Cour- 
ier. For some reason all the correspondence from 
Palestine was suppressed by the Turkish government 
through the censor of the press. All private com- 
munications mailed at the same time and place were 
considerately allowed to reach their destination. 
Doubtless the suppressed manuscript contained some 
damaging disclosures which it was deemed important 
to conceal from the American people. While this 
narrow and tyrannical act of a tottering and bankrupt 
government imposed the unwelcome task of repro- 
ducing the confiscated letters, it furnished a favora- 
ble opportunity to verify dates and proper names, 



4 PREFACE. 

always a matter of extreme difficulty to the traveler 
in writing from foreign lands. 

Mr. Carlyle, in Sartor Resartits, declares "The 
drop which thou shakest from thy wet hand rests not 
where it falls, but to-morrow thou findest it swept 
away ; already on the wings of the north wind it is 
nearing the Tropic of Cancer," May the same po- 
tent and providential Hand that moves the forces of 
nature by such subtle agencies guide also the course 
of this plain and truthful narrative. In Sunday- 
school libraries and family circles every-where may 
it give the widest diffusion to a sound literature, and 
tend to win some wayward wanderer back to the fold 
of Jesus the Christ — the son of Mary and the Son of 
God! Nathan Htjbbell. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 
Farewell Greetings. — P arsons ajo) Pugilists are Fel- 
low-passengers ! — Life on the Atlantic Ocean 9 

CHAPTER n. 

Strolls through London, Rugby, Kenil worth Castle, 
AND THE Paris Exposition, with Notes by the Way- 
side 27 

CHAPTER m. 
Rambles in Westminster Abbey. — Buckingham Pal- 
ace. — A Visit to Windsor Castle. — " Bank Holiday " 
AT Oxford. — The Bank of England. — Strolls about 
London — English Manners and Customs. — Strat- 
ford-on-avon 45 

CHAPTER IV. 

Wanderings in Edinburgh. — Home and Church of John 
Knox. — Melrose Abbey. — Abbotspord and Sir Wal- 
ter Scott. — Glasgow. — Ship-building on the Clyde. 
— Land o' Burns and Tam o' Shanter 63 

CHAPTER V. 

The Belfast Riots. — Ireland's Largest Lake. — Con- 
cerning Crows. — Battle op the Boyne. — Jaunting- 
car Rides. — Dublin and its Sights. — Siege op Derry, 
1689.— Giants' Causeway 83 

CHAPTER VI. 

Off for Paris. — A Dismal Night Journey. — The Gay 
Metropolis. — Fall of the Bastile. — The Exposition 
of 1889. — A Continental Sunday 106 

CHAPTER Vn. 
Brussels, the Gay Capital of Belgium. — A Visit to 
the Battle-field op Waterloo. — Germany and the 
Romantic Rhine. — Holland, its People, Dikes, and 
Wind-mills 133 



6 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIII. PAGK. 

On to Switzerland. — Musing on the Mighty Alps, — 
Lovely Lucerne. — Florence. — Milan with her Ma- 
jestic AND Costly Cathedral. — The Eternal City. — 
Roman Ruins and Modern Aspects. — A Visit to the 
Vatican 140 

CHAPTER IX. 

At the Palace of King Humbert. — Vesuvius Visited. 
— European Warlike Movements. — Pompeii Resur- 
rected ! — Impressions of Greece 160 

CHAPTER X. 

Departure for Smyrna. — The Land op Passports. — A 
Fever-smitten City. — Mount Pagos. — The Grecian 
Archipelago. — An Excursion to Ephesus. — At the 
Birthplace of Saul 179 

CHAPTER XI. 

Beyrut. — Camping Tour Begins. — American College. 
— First Night in Palestine. — Change of Plan. — My 
Lonely Jaunt to Jerusalem 207 

CHAPTER XH. 

First Impressions. — The American Family. — Sight- 
seeing Within and Around the Walls. — Geth- 
SEMANE.— The Mount op Olives. — Bethany. — Beth- 
lehem. — The Mosque op Omar. — Modern Build- 
ings, ETC 239 

CHAPTER XIH. 

King Solomon's Famous Marble Quarry. — On to 
Egypt. — The Suez Canal. — Egyptian Mosques and 
Women. — A Visit to the Sphinx and Pyramids. — 
The Howling Dervishes 263 

CHAPTER XTV. 

Departure from Egypt. — "Blues" on the Blue Med- 
iterranean. — Views of Stromboli. — Sardinia, Cor- 
sica, Marseilles, Lyons, etc. — The Cretan Insur- 
rection. — Arrival in New York. — Farewell Ob- 
servations 393 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page 

Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives Frontispiece. 

Rev. Nathan Hubbell 12 

On Deck 18 

Steamer's Dimng-saloon 20 

Ne'aring the Irish Coast 23 

Kenilworlh Castle 30 

The Carpet-bagger in London 32 

City Road Chapel 3G 

Interior of City Road Chapel 38 

Charles "Wesley's Tomb 40 

Whitehall in the Days of James II 42 

Susannah "Wesley's New Tomb 43 

Old Newgate Prison 47 

Old London Bridge 49 

Traitor's Gate, London Tower 51 

Statue of Howard at St. Paul's 53 

Quadrangle of Lincoln College, Oxford 55 

Chapel of Lincoln College 55 

St. Mary's Church, Oxford 5"? 

The Broad Walk, Oxford 58 

City of P]dinburgh 64 

John Knox 66 

House of John Knox, PJdinburgh 68 

Thatched Cottage, Ireland 85 

An Irish Hovel 88 

Clarke's Monument, Portru.sh, Ireland 100 

Louvre in the Sixteenth Century 110 

Waterloo 128 

Rhine Scenery 139 

The Matterhorn 144 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Rome 151 

Church at the Catacombs 154 

'Methodist Episcopal Ciiurch, Rome 158 

Statue of Jupiter Olympus 174 

Mars' Hill 176 

Colossus of Rhodes 184 

Theater at Ephesus Restored 193 

Isle of Patmos 196 

Tarsus , . . 200 

The Camping Tour 208 

View of Beyrut 211 

Bishop Kingsley's Monument 213 

Sea of Galilee 216 

A Caravan 220 

Tower of Ramleh 226 

The Mosque of Omar 232 

Via Dolorosa 238 

Interior of King Solomon's Temple 243 

Moliammedans "Worshiping 246 

The Holy Sepulcher 249 

A Bedouin 252 

View from the Wall of Jerusalem 255 

A Jerusalem Jew 259 

On to Egypt 264 

The Ark 269 

On the Suez Canal 272 

The WiDged Lion 276 

The Pyramids 278 

The Sphinx 281 

Entrance to the Great Pyramid , . 285 

Hieroglyphics 289 

Our Ship in a Gale 295 

Moonlight on the Mediterranean 298 

A Coral Island 302 

Lyons 305 

View of the Ocean 308 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER I. 

IE3Io! Fox- I^'a-l^stiix^. 

Farewell Greetings. — Parsons and Pugilists are Fel- 
low-passengers ! — Life on the Atlantic Ocean. 

"Rock'd in the cradle of the deep, 

I lay me down in peace to sleep ; 

Secure I rest upon the wave, 

For thou, O Lord, hast power to save. 

I know thou wilt not slight my call. 

For thou dost mark the sparrow's fall ; 

And calm and peaceful is my sleep, 

Rock'd in the cradle of the deep." — Emma Willard. 

' ' I know not where His islands lift 

Their fronded palms in air ; 
I only know I cannot drift 

Beyond his love and care." — Whittier. 

AWAY from the mammoth and mighty city of 
New York, its superheated streets, " seven 
times hotter" than comfort or physical endurance 
demand, we sailed in the month of August. Two 
powerful steam-tugs by herculean efforts and inces- 
sant puffing finally succeed in towing the leviathan 
steamer City of Rome from her moorings to the 
channel. 



10 MY JOURNEY TO JMRUSALSM. 

On the pier the usual crowd, vast and demon- 
strative, is visible. Farewell words are whispered 
and handkerchiefs flutter like white-winged doves 
in the faint midsummer breeze. Amid the con- 
fusion of departure and the rush from the steamer 
when the hoarse shout of "All ashore that are go- 
ing " is given, some exciting incidents occur. A 
portion of the luggage of a passenger falls into the 
dirty and rushing river. "While it is being fished 
out with a boat-hook a great cry goes up — " A man 
overboard." It proves to be an unfortunate steve- 
dore. A hundred willing hands are extended to save 
him. Doubtless they are successful, though we can- 
not tarry to learn the fact. The mighty ship is in 
motion. The powerful pulsations of her screw are 
felt, whicli will be our lullaby and morning saluta- 
tion during the entire voyage of seven days or more, 
Down the harbor and bay we swiftly glide. The 
deafening din of the great metropolis — its pampered 
patricians of "Wall Street, Murray Hill, and Fifth 
Avenue, who live in luxury, and the paupered ple- 
beians of the " East side," who starve, steal, or die in 
dismal garrets and cellars, are left behind. Fainter 
and far away come voices from tlie receding city. 
Castle Garden, Bowling Green, Governor's Island, 
the lofty " Bartholdi Statue of Liberty Enlightening 
the World " are past. The beautiful shores of Staten 



3IY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. \\ 

Island and Fort Hamilton are seen, with frowning 
forts on either side. Now we reach Quarantine and 
Sandy Hook. Here our pilot is discharged, and, in 
the judgment of very many, a great ocean race is 
begun, since the latest maritime wonders — the City 
of New York and Teutonic — sail at about the same 
hour as our steamer. 

And now a new daily life is inaugurated. Instead 
of being " a night and a day on the deep," like Paul, 
a week or more must pass before land is sighted. 

* ' The hollow oak our palace is, 
Our heritage the sea." 

Waiters are now styled " stewards," while baggage 
is transformed into "luggage," and "tips" are ex- 
changed for courtesies. Sailing vessels, steam-tugs, 
fishing-boats, and finally pilot-boats, with huge num- 
bers on their white sails, vanish, " Number Nineteen " 
being the last one visible. Before us, like Milton's 
serpent, " extended huge and vast and long," stretch 
three thousand miles of water. The sea is noticeably 
quiet. Save a gentle undulation it is as calm as the 
proverbial mill-pond. Later, during a storm, old 
Neptune exacted the customary tribute from many 
fellow-passengers, though I was personally exempt. 

Only twenty of our Oriental party are on board, 
others having sailed before us, proposing to join the 



12 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



company at various points in Europe, including Lon- 
don, Paris, and Italy. Among the latter are the Kev. 
G. M. Stone, D.D., pastor of the Asylum Avenue 
Baptist Church, Hartford, Conn., and Kewman Cur- 
tis, Esq., of Kentucky. 

Much to the regret of myself and themselves, 







KEY. NATHAN HUBBELL. 



Mr. A. H. Ailing (the well-known manufacturer of 
hosiery and underwear, Birmingham, Conn.), and 
wife, were compelled to mthdraw from the party a 
few days before the steamer sailed, owing to the 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 13 

death of Mrs. C. B. Ailing, of tliat place, his brother's 
wife. 

The passenger list revealed the fact that the party 
booked by the City of Rome was strictly cosmopoli- 
tan ; Americans from California, Georgia, Montana, 
Illinois, Iowa — in fact, from nearly every State in the 
Union, There were English, Irish, Scotch, German, 
French, Norwegian, and African travelers, besides 
some from the West Indies and Australia. 

From the latter point came Mr. Peter Jackson, the 
famous colored pugilist, with his manager, " Parson 
Davies." Mr. Jackson thus far has never been de- 
feated. He is broad-shouldered, lithe, nimble as a 
kitten, and fully six feet two inches in height. He 
was on his way to fight " Jem Smith," the self-styled 
" Champion of England," whom he subsequently de- 
feated with evident ease. 

A large number of clergymen were on board, 
which possibly served to restore the social equilib- 
rium. The utmost good order and courtesy pre- 
vailed throughout the entire voyage. 

Four clergymen besides myself occupied one state- 
room ; the Rev. M. H. Plumb, of Illinois, a native 
of New Haven ; the Rev. L. B. Edwards, Atlantic 
Highlands, N. J. ; the Rev. "W. Porteus, D.D., and 
the Rev. J. R. Armstrong (the latter two Presbyte- 
rians), of Missouri. 



14 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

Meals were served sharply at half past seven A. M., 
twelve M. and five P. M., which were of a satisfactory 
character. How passengers dispose of their time for 
a week on the" ocean is a problem to the uninitiated. 
Conversation, promenading on the npper deck, games 
of quoits and cards by some, reading from a well-fur- 
nished library, with occasionally a spice of flirtation, 
constitute some of the diversions usually employed. 
Three meals are served daily, with a lunch, in the 
second cabin, and four meals in the saloon. 

The gigantic steamer carried comparatively few 
passengers — 30Y in all, of whom 105 were booked 
saloon, 152 second cabin, and 50 steerage. Even 
though the freight bills be added, it would seem 
quite impossible to meet the expenses of so large 
a vessel when we consider that 300 tons of coal are 
consumed daily, making a total for the trip of 2,400 
tons. Add to this the wages of the officers and men, 
three hundred in number, who must also be fed three 
meals daily, and it will be ajDparent that but few 
men or corporations can indulge in the luxury of run- 
ning an ocean steamer. The ship was built in 1881, 
is 565 feet in length, 8,415 tons register, with 12,500 
horse-power, and 63 furnaces. 

An excellent sermon was delivered in the main sa- 
loon on Sunday by the Rev. G. W. Iluddleston (Meth- 
odist), of Cleveland, O., who goes with us through 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 15 

Palestine and Egypt, Hi's discourse evinced wide 
reading, a scholarly range of thought, and abounded 
in choice historical illustrations, A collection, ac- 
cording to usage, was then taken for the Home of 
Aged Mariners at Liverpool. 

A religious service for seamen was also held in the 
afternoon in the open air on the main-deck, and an- 
other in the second cabin dining-saloon in the even- 
ing, A half hour prayer-meeting was likewise con-' 
ducted daily on the spar-deck. Consequently, as will 
be seen, our religious privileges were exceedingly 
ample. 

The speed of the vessel and the number of knots 
made per diem, our latitude and longitude, are sub- 
jects of deep interest to the average passenger. Not 
unfrequently bets are made regarding the number of 
miles made, which are officially decided at noon, when 
the daily log is posted at the saloon companion-way. 
Our average progress was about three hundred and 
eighty miles. "While this seems slow in comparison 
with the later and improved steamers, Etru7'ia, City of 
New TorJi, and Teutonic, yet it exceeds the progress , 
of a score of passenger steamers regularly crossing the 
Atlantic. What marvelous changes since Columbus 
crossed the ocean with his miniature and crazy crafts, 
consuming some three months of time ! It should be 
borne in mind, however, that at least one more day 



16 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

must be added to the crack trips of five days and va- 
rying hours, of which we boast so much, before we 
gain our Hberty and emerge from the custom-house, 
since the time is reckoned from Sandy Hook to 
Queenstown, two hundred and twenty miles being un- 
covered by the usual figures furnished. In saihng 
over the deep blue sea day after day, in pursuit of 
health, education, or pleasure, one is saddened to 
think of the bottom of the mighty ocean. Thousands 
of human beings are buried there. What a vast char- 
nel-house ! How many ships slumber beneath the 
restless wave ! — the President, Arctic, Oregon, and 
a long list besides. How many homes have been 
blasted ! Plow many hearts have been broken ! 
What limitless treasures of silver, gold, and property 
of every description have gone down forever ! And 
yet, annually, thousands sail over these waters thought- 
lessly, carelessly, wliile the laugh, the jest, the Mdne- 
cup, and the merry dance go on. So men accumu- 
late colossal fortunes or attain the summit of political 
power over the shattered hopes and blighted prospects 
of their fellow-men. 

One of our Palestine party is the Rev. S. C. Up- 
sliaw, a colored clergyman of Atlanta, Ga. He is a 
graduate of Clark University, Presiding Elder of the 
Griffin District in that State, and editor of a local re- 
ligious paper. For some cause he reached the dock 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 17 

after the steamer liad left her j)ier at New York. 
Some would have abandoned the voyage in despair. 
But he is not that sort of man. Hiring a boatman for 
two dollars to convey him to the vanishing ship, he 
caught it in time ; but, tendering a five-dollar bill to 
the man in the boat for change, the rascal rowed 
swiftly away with the entire amount, giving him 
curses instead of the money due him. Then he 
found that his overcoat had been left in a car of the 
elevated road, to add to his misfortunes — an article 
quite essential for comfort on the northern Atlantic. 
But, like Paul, " none of these things move him." 
His face is still " set toward Jerusalem." He expects 
to complete the Oriental trip, and tell the colored 
members of his district "what an ex-slave saw in 
Palestine " on his return. 

Foggy weather was experienced for several days, 
which rendered the hoarse and repeated blasts of the 
fog-whistle an absolute necessity. Out of the murky 
gloom one morning we came within a " biscuit's toss " 
of a small fishing schooner, showing the imperative 
need of such precautions. The startled skipper evi- 
dently rejoiced over his narrow escape, for our mod- 
ern leviathan would have sent him speedily to the 
bottom. Other vessels were occasionally sighted, 
some so remote from us as to seem mere specks on 
the distant horizon. In mid-ocean a lone stormy 



18 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



petrel, one of Mother Carey's cliickens, as the sailor 
loves to call them, was met, fully twelve hundred 
miles from land. They are dreaded by sailors, who re- 
gard them with possibly some degree of superstitious 
awe, since their presence usually forebodes tempestu- 
ous weather. They will hover around ocean steamers 




night and day for a thousand miles or more, but are 
seldom molested. 

The few steerage passengers on board, glad to es- 
cape the mephitic odors in their dank and dismal 
quarters, are seated on the dirty deck or lying pros- 
ti-ate fast asleep, with small children and infants by 
their side. A little tin trunk, or a well-worn basket, 
contains, in some instances, all their luggage. Love of 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 19 

kindred has again drawn them back to beautiful and 
oppressed Ireland, where home rule and misrule are 
engaged in the death-grapple for supremacy. May 
the day of deHverance speedily dawn ! 

The City of Home is remarkably steady in a storm, 
which fact serves to attract passengers peculiarly sus- 
ceptible to sea-sickness. Complaint has hitherto been 
made by some writers regarding the filthy condition 
of some portions of the vessel. Efforts toward clean- 
liness are largely confined to the saloon. Obviously 
much improvement could be made in the steerage if 
not in the intermediate department. The odors of a 
dozen water-closets penetrate the latter section of the 
steamer especially, while indications of general neglect 
are very manifest. If the popular commander. Cap- 
tain Hugli Young, could occasionally visit each por- 
tion of the steamer during a voyage he would doubt- 
less discover some remedy for these glaring abuses. 

The vocabulary of the sailor includes slang and 
technical expressions, which are ahke suggestive and 
amusing. Corned beef is described as " salt junk," 
" salt horse," and " old horse," according to the mood 
of Jack. Puddings composed of dried peas and 
boiled in a cloth are styled "dog's bodies," while 
hasty pudding is known as " loblolly." " Ship bis- 
cuit " is called, as in the army, " hard tack," and 
fresh wheat bread " soft tommy." 



20 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



" Six water grog " implies mucli-diluted alcoholic 
drinks, and " to splice the main-brace " is to drink a 
larger quantity of the fiery fluid. " Half seas over " 
and " three sheets in the wind " denote the equivocal 
walk of the inebriate. " Bulling the barrel " is to 
add a quantity of water to the cask of liquor when it 
is low. " Sucking tlie monkey " is to suck liquor 




steamer's dining-saloon. 

secretly through a gimlet-hole made in a full barrel 
of rum. A "lubber" is a green hand who has just 
begun a seafaring life. " Lubber's hole " is applied 
interchangeably to the hole in the maintop and 
to a sailor neglecting his duty. " Telling things 
to marines " suggests discredit when an improbable 
story is told. " Son of a sea cook " is applied in con- 



3/r JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 21 

tempt to persons disliked, as is also the epithet 
" swab." 

The man dealing out the grog is called a " bimg- 
starter." The cook of a ship is known as " slushy," 
from his boiling salt pork called " slush." " A dirty 
dog and no sailor " is hurled at a lazy and villainous 
man. "We have by no means exhausted the nautical 
vocabulary, but these illustrations must suffice. 

Among the entertainments of the trip were con- 
certs, lectures, and other exercises of an interesting 
character. Professor D. R. Dungan, of Drake Uni- 
versity, Des Moines, la., presented a well-thought-out 
paper on " The Principles of Biblical Interpretation," 
and the Rev. A. P. Kriel, of Beaconsfield, South Af- 
rica, gave a vivid description of the diamond fields in 
that portion of the Dark Continent. Tlie shafts sunk 
are from twelve to one thousand feet in depth, the 
shallower ones being near the bed of the river, where 
the gems have been washed down from distant eleva- 
tions and buried in the sand. Natives employed in 
diamond digging work for two dollars and fifty cents 
per week, boarding themselves. Extraordinary vigi- 
lance is exercised to prevent the precious gems from 
being stolen. Every day, when labor is ended, the 
workmen are compelled to remove all their clothing 
and are critically examined to see that none are con- 
cealed therein, in their hair, mouths, under their 



22 MY JOliRlTEY TO JERUSALEM. 

arms, or between their toes. Formerly diamonds 
were secreted in old tin cans and thrown over the 
fence to a confederate, sold, and the proceeds divided. 
A. tall fence just built renders the operation well-nigh 
impossible. Years ago diamonds were the property 
of any one finding them. Even children would hawk 
them about the streets, selling them for an insignifi- 
cant sum. Now all the diamond-producing lands are 
owned by large companies, who guard their treasures 
in the strictest manner. Immense fortunes have been 
accumulated by the individual members of these cor- 
porations from the sale of diamonds, which find their 
way to Paris, London, IS^ew York, and other commer- 
cial centers of the world. 

Long before port is reached the Yankee tourist is 
astonished at the erratic action of the sun, which per- 
sists in rising at eleven and twelve o'clock at night by 
New York time, when honest workers are presum- 
ably asleep — toilers on morning papers excepted. 
With his watch moved five hours ahead, he is at 
length prepared to begin wanderings in foreign 
lands. 

The welcome cry of " Land Ho ! " is heard ! Fast- 
tiet light-house, at the entrance of St. George's Chan- 
nel, is in view, while the rugged and barren mount- 
ains of Kerry are visible, though in dim outline. 
At Queenstown, Ireland, many passengers will leave 



24 ^>/r JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

US, and the Irish mail will be taken ashore. Thence, 
this chapter, written on a rocking ship amid the blasts 
of a furious gale and the swell of an angry sea, will, 
it is hoped, find its way to the intelligent readers of 
this volume of travels in due process of time. Our 
Oriental party will proceed to Liverpool, two hun- 
dred and twenty miles distant up St. George's Chan- 
nel. Here we propose taking an early train for 
Kenilworth Castle, and pause a few hours to visit 
that venerable ruin. Then we push on to London, 
where the Sabbath, God willing, will be spent. 

Now we are under the j)i'otection of Yictoria, that 
estimable queen. Her extended reign has been of a 
j)ure and exalted character. The Prince of Wales, 
who, should he survive his mother, will succeed her 
in wearing the British crown, is now a man of mature 
years. The " wild oats " of his early career have 
been largely overcome, and by the masses forgotten. 
No one doubts his moral or intellectual fitness for 
this position of prominence and responsibility when 
the eventful period arrives. 

The genealogy of Queen Yictoria is traced as fol- 
lows by a modern writer : 

" Yictoria, Queen of Great Britain and Empress of 
India, is the niece of William lY., who was the 
brother of George lY., who was the son of George 
III., who was the grandson of George II., who was 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 25 

the son of George I., who was the cousin of Queen 
Anne, who was the sister-in-law of William III., who 
was the son-in-law of James II., who was the brother 
of Charles II., who was the son of Charles I., who 
was the son of James I., who was the cousin of Eliza- 
beth, who was the sister of Mary, who was the sister 
of Edward YI., who was the son of Henry VIII., 
who was the son of Henry YII., who was the cousin 
of Richard III., who was the uncle of Edward V., 
who was the son of Edward IV., who was the cousin 
of Henry VI., who was the son of Henry V., who 
was the cousin of Richard II., who was the grandson 
of Edward III., who was the son of Edward II., who 
was the son of Edward I., who was the son of Henry 
III., who was the son of John, who was the brother 
of Richard I., who was the son of Henry II., who 
was the cousin of Stephen, who was the cousin of 
Henry I., who was the brother of William Rufus, 
who was the son of William the Conqueror. Thus 
Queen Victoria can trace her ancestors back to about 
eight hundred years ago. It is the oldest reigning 
dynasty in the world." 

She is the daughter of Edward, Duke of Kent, and 
was born at Kensington Palace, May 24, 1819. 

A writer, speaking of the greatness of London, 
says : " Every four minutes marks a birth. In the 
next two hours after you read this thirty babies have 



^6 ^y JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

been born and twenty deaths have taken place. 
Think of it ! The evening paper tliat records the 
births and deaths of the preceding four-and-twenty 
hours must give three hundred separate items. Yer- 
ily, its joys and sorrows are a multitude. London 
has seven thousand miles of streets, and if you 
walked them at the rate of twenty miles a day, you 
would have to walk almost a year, and more than a 
year by nearly fifty days, if you should rest on Sun- 
days. And if you were a thirsty sort of a traveler, 
and couldn't pass a public-house, don't be alarmed — 
the seven thousand miles of streets have five-and-sev- 
enty miles of public-houses, so you need not think of 
thirst. In a year London folks swallow down 500,000 
oxen, 2,000,000 sheep, 200,000 calves, 300,000 swine, 
8,000,000 head of fowls, 500,000,000 pounds of fish, 
500,000,000 oysters, 200,000,000 lobsters— is that 
enough to figure on ? If not, there are some million 
tons of canned provisions, no end of fruit and vege- 
tables, and 50,000,000 bushels of wheat. But how 
they wash all the food down you might feel glad to 
know. It takes 200,000,000 quarts of beer. But 
more than this, they drink 10,000,000 quarts of rum 
and 50,000,000 quarts of wine — the wine, the rum, 
the beer, 260,000,000 quarts." 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 27 



CHAPTER II. 

Strolls through London, Rugby, Kenil worth Castle, and 
THE Paris Exposition, with Notes by the Wayside. 

" Britannia needs no bulwarks, 

No towers along the steep ; 

Her march is o'er the mountain-waves. 

Her home is on the deep," — Thomas Campbell. 

ON tlie damp, misty morning after our arrival at 
Liverpool, we drove rapidly through various 
portions of that vast commercial metropolis. The 
dull stone buildings, begrimed by the tarry touch 
of time and the incessant volumes of bituminous 
smoke from thousands of dwellings, factories, and 
public buildings, were gloomy in the extreme. 
Though the hour was early, long before breakfast, 
laboring men and women were hastening to their 
daily toil. Yery many begin work at six A. M., be- 
fore eating, and breakfast between eight and nine 
o'clock. Conversing with some of them, they proved 
to be intelligent, cheerful, and apparently contented 
with their earthly condition. All showed the deepest 
interest in America, particularly in the salaries re- 
ceived by our mechanics and other wage-earners. 
A glance at the amounts paid in England should 



28 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

forever remove the cobwebs of the free-trade delusion 
from the minds of thoughtful men. Let a few illus- 
trations suffice, which are furnished by a competent 
authority : 

Conductors on trams (street-cars) and omnibuses 
are paid $6 T2 per week and work sixteen hours a 
day, having no Sunday rest. Policemen in London 
receive $5 Y6 a week, firemen the same amount, 
while laboring-men must be content with $4 32. 
Printers toil fifty-four hours a week in Sunderland 
for $Y 20 ; blacksmiths, fifty -three hours for $7 56 ; 
carpenters, for tlie same time, $Y 68 ; brick-layers and 
stone-masons, fifty hours for $T 98 ; tailors, fifty-five 
hours for $5 50 ; and engineers, fifty-four hours for a 
stipend of $7 68. 

The massive granite docks and piers at Liverpool 
have for years attracted the attention of American 
tourists especially. Solidity and durabihty are their 
prominent characteristics. The cost, though vast, 
embracing several millions of dollars, has been a wise 
investment. Above three hundred acres are covered 
by them, besides perhaps twenty miles of quays. 

Few objects of interest detain us at Liverpool. 
Her public buildings are immense, and built as a rule 
of enduring granite. V^arious statues to men promi- 
nent in English history adorn the plazas and public 
parks. In 1886 we visited her great " Exposition," 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 29 

then in progress. Though restful to the traveler 
after a protracted sea voyage, and creditable to the 
nation, yet it presented comparatively few novelties 
contrasted with our gigantic display at Philadelpliia in 
1876. Hungry for greater attractions elsewhere in 
Europe, the average traveler pushes rapidly on. 

Rugby was our next point of interest. Two hours 
were spent in delightful rambles through its quaint 
and quiet streets, its charming hedge-rows, cozy cot- 
tages, and wealth of foliaget. Of course, the famous 
grammar school of the late Dr. Thomas Arnold was . 
seen, and perhaps with a superabundance of Yankee' 
rashness I sat in the private chair of that eminent 
man, and even ascended the pulpit in the chapel. 
Near Rugby Addison once lived. Tom Browiv's 
School Days, The Manliness of Christ, and other 
works of genial and gifted Thomas Hughes come nat- 
urally to mind as we gaze about the venerable struct- 
ure or stroll through the quiet streets. 

The ashes of Arnold repose in the memorial tomb 
at Rugby Chapel. At the time of his death he had 
barely entered his forty-seventh year. Fifteen years 
after being deposited in their final resting-place, 
his son, Matthew, published a poem, written by 
himself, a filial tribute to the memory of his distin- 
guished father, the opening stanza of which is as 
follows : 



30 



MY JOURNJEY TO JERUSALEM. 

" O strong soul, by what shore 
Tarriest thou now ? For that force, 
Surely, has not been left vain ! 
Somewhere, surely, afar. 
In the sounding labor-house vast 
Of being, is practiced that strength, 
Zealous, beneficent, firm ! " 




KENILWORTH CASTLE. 



Arnold's reputation as an instructor, a fearless 
polemic, a historian, and a profound and polished 
classical scholar will long survive him. 

Kenilworth Castle then drew us reluctantly away. 
The historv of this interesting ruin covers a period of 



. MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 31 

possibly a tliousand years. Facts regarding it are com- 
paratively few, while traditions abound. Founded by 
Geoffrey de Clinton, Lord Cliatnberlaiii to Heury L, it 
in succession became the property of Henry III., Simon 
de Montfort, Eai"l of Leicester, John of Gaunt, Henry 
lY., and many more. Here Edward II. suffered im- 
prisonment. It was also owned by Queen Elizabeth, 
who finally gave it to Dudley, the Earl of Leices- 
ter, a special favorite at the palace, Avho squandered 
$85,000 during an entertainment lasting seventeen 
days. 

Over the green, grassy slopes about the castle many 
monarchs have strolled in their moments of leisure. 
What vast aggregations of beauty, wealth, valor, and 
regal power, which ever and anon in the shadowy 
past M-ere attracted to the spot, do these ivy-clad 
walls suggest ! Gone ! Gone ! " What shadows "we 
are, and what shadows we pursue ! " 

From the summit of the crumbling ruin extended 
and delightful views are afforded. Well trimmed 
hedge-rows, broad fields of verdant loveliness, with 
stretches of charming English landscape, attract the 
eye. But we may not taii-y. Thousands of miles, by 
land and sea, yet to be traversed call us away from 
the scene, and we hasten by a rapid train. 

London. — Negress night had drawn her somber 
curtain o'er earth and sky around the mighty metrop- 



""•- 




THE CARPET-BAUUEK IN LONDON. 



,}fV JorKXEY TO JERUSALEM. 33 

ulis, when our party alighted. Carriages are in read- 
iness, and away we speed for Coxent Garden Hotel. 

London, situated on the Thames, 60 miles from the 
sea, covers an area of streets and stpuires embracing 
122 square miles. The population is about 4,500,00<», 
including 120,000 foreigners; it contains nioreKoman 
Catholics than Rome, and more Jews than Palestine. 
Tlie ])olice force niiniljcrs over 10,700 men. In 
various directions there are more than ten contin- 
uous miles of houses. Tlie water supply averages 
50,<>OU,0OO gallons diiily, and 400.000 gas lamps light 
its streets, consuming 15,000,000 cubic feet of gas 
every day. The coal consumed annually is estimated 
at 5,500,000 tons, and the annual rental at£-20,000,00(). 
On an average 28 miles of new streets and 9,000 new 
houses are erected yearly. E\ery day sees about 
IGOjOOO strangei-s enter the city, and 123 persons are 
daily added to its population by birth. 

The great city seems substantially the same as we 
left it three years ago. The push of the bustling 
multitude, the ro;ir of "buses, trams, and other vehi- 
cles are unchanged. And yet London, like all great 
business centers, varies like the kaleidoscope. Death 
does its direful work. Reverses overtake the oldest 
mercantile houses, while emigration and immigration 
alike forbid any approach to stagnation. Hence, Ten- 
nyson's " Song of the Brook/' modified, might read, 



34 J/ y JO URXEY TO JER U SALEM. 

"Men may come aud meu )uay go, 
But Loudon goes on forever."' 

The fonuidable strike of the dock laborers was in 
progress. All phases of tlie sul » ject received ample treat- 
ment, not onlj in the local press, including the T'imes, 
Telegraph., and other publications, but by the public 
generally. From the tops of 'buses aud trams, Avith- 
in coifee-houses and beer-shops, even along the corri- 
dors of the Bank of England and the Royal Exchange, 
it was the teeming topic. Wliitechapel, amid its 
horde of horrors, and "West End, in rustling silk and 
costly broadcloth, talked it over. Even at "Westmin- 
ster Abbey on Sunday, and in other pul])its, the otti- 
ciating clergymen alluded to it in conciliatory terms, 
and connseled moderation and ]ieace on the part of 
the people, especially t];e working-men. 

Our party roamed ad lihHani throughout the me- 
tropolis without attempting unity of action. The 
ITational Gallery of Art, British Museum, Tower of 
London, M^itli the thousand and one objects of 
interest al)Ounding on every hand, were drawn upon 
freely. 

Personally, the gallery was a disappointment. Few 
modern ]iictares were there, while scores on exhibi- 
tion were valued more for the histoi'ical associations 
connected with them than for intrinsic merit. A 
superabundance of paintings which had done service 



MY JOUnXKY TO JERVSAJ.KM. 35 

for long years at cathedrals and elsewhere were exhib- 
ited, presenting; the infant Jesus, the Madonna and 
Child, the Magi, repeatedly. To my iinai'tistic vision 
nothing could be more out of taste than the utterly 
improbable posture of painting the infant Jesus in a 
state of nudity on the lioor, while Mary, Joseph, and 
the Wise JMen gaze upon him with evident admiration. 
The paintings of Landseer and Hosa Bonheur, on the 
contrary, were an exquisite delight. 

The Colonial and Indian Exhibition, London, in 
progress during our iii-st visit, proved a gratifying 
success. Immense audiences thronged the place daily. 
At night tlie number was estimated at from thirty to 
iifty thousand within the park and buildings. Thou- 
sands of minute colored lights burned and twinkled in 
the darkness overhead, on the borders of the paths, 
amid the foliage of the trees by the waters of the 
fountains. Large and numei-ous electric lights also 
blazed brilliantly at various points on the grounds, 
presenting a scene of rai'e beauty. 

The single Sabbath at our disposal included services 
at City Road Chapel (Wesleyan) in the morning, 
Westminster Abbey in the afternoon, and Spui'geon's 
Tabernacle at night. The former church is the Meth- 
odist Mecca, founded and built l)y John Wesley, his 
old pulpit being still there. His house, writing- 
desk and famous t(^a-pot next door, Avith his grave in 



36 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



the rear of the clmrcli, explain, in some degree at 
least, the denominational interest in the locality. 

Wesley's tea-pot is highly valued as a relic. It is coni- 
-^')0sed of chinaware, so-called, bine and white, and is of 




CITY ROAD CHAPEL. 



huge proportions. A part of the spout has been knocked 
off. It bears tlie following inscriptions, the first be- 
ino- now generally sung at Wesleyan public tea-meet- 
ino-s before meals, and the second one at the close : 



MV JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 37 

' ' Be present at our table. Lord, 
Be here and every-wlicre adored; 
These creatures bless, and grant that we 
May feast in Paradise witli thee." 

On the reveise side is tlie followini>' : 

"We thank thee, Lord, for this, our food, 

But more because of Jesus" blood ; 

Let manna to our soiils be given. 

The bread of life sent down from heaven." 

Cyrus W. Field has made a standing offer of $2,000 
for the tea-pot, and Mr. Peck, of the firm of Peck & 
Snj'^der, New York, has recently offered $5,000 for 
the relic without avail. Evidently some crockery is 
held at a high valuation. 

By the side of Wesley sleep Rev. Jal)ez Bunting 
and Pev. Richard AViitson, conspicuous theologians 
of their day. There is also a monument to the jnemory 
of Rev Dr. Adam Clarke, whose Commentary on the 
Scriptures, the product of forty years of tireless toil, 
is still unrivaled in the judgment of many mature 
lay and clerical minds. 

Across the street from (^itvRoad Chapel lies the 
body of John Bunyan, the immortal dreamer, in 
Biinhill Fields Cemetery. The original tombstone 
has long since disappeared. Yandals from many 
lands have removed it in a fragmentary form as sou- 
venirs. Xow an iron monument of graceful propoi'- 



J/ }' JO URNEY TO JER USA LEM. 39 

tions marks the spot. Panels, with views chosen 
from suggestions contained in Pilgrim .'i Progress, 
appropriately adorn each side of the shaft. 

Isaac Watts, the Christian poet ; Daniel Defoe, au- 
thor of Robinson Crusoe, Memoirs of a Cavalier, New 
Voyage Around the World, Political History of the 
Devil, and otlier publications ; Susannah Wesley, 
mother of nineteen children, two of whom, John and 
Charles Wesley, achieved world-wide distinction ; and 
many conspicuous characters besides, rest within the 
inclosure. It is probably the oldest grave-yard in the 
city. Some of the tombstones have strange and 
weird faces carved upon them, with inscriptions no 
less peculiar. One stone bears the following an- 
nouncement : " Here lies the body of Dame Mary 
Page. From her were taken two hundred and forty 
gallons of water in sixty-seven months, during which 
she was tapped sixty-six times." 

Newmap Hall still draws immense audiences at 
his church on AVestminster Road. It is a favorite 
resort of American visitors. He is a great friend of 
the United States. The steeple of the church is 
known as Lincoln Tower, and was built largely by 
funds contributed by his friends in America, during 
a visit to his intimate friend, the Pev. Dr. Theodore 
L. Cuyler, of Brooklyn. It is in honor of Abraham 
Lincoln and tlie Emancipation Proclamation, and con- 




CHARLES Wesley's tomb. 



MY JOrRXEV TO JERUSALEM. ^ 41 

tains red, white, and blue stone:,. The anniversary of 
Mr. Hall's church \vas being celebrated, and the ser- 
mon proved one of great excellence. 

Mr, Spurgeon did not ap]3ear at his best. His step 
was slow and heavy, he being still the victim of rheu- 
matic gout. During both the morning and evening 
services tlic devotional exercises and Scripture read- 
ing were conducted by assisting clergymen, the Eev. 
Joseph Spurgeon, his brother, officiating at night. 
Like his gifted relative, lie possesses a voice of mar- 
velous clearness and compass, l)ut beyond this there 
is no legitimate comparison. 

Owing to the fact that the Lord's Supper was to 
be celebrated at the close, Mr. Spurgeon preached 
but forty minutes. As a rule he exceeds one hour, 
however. AVhile the discourse contained many inter- 
esting points, it Avas an intellectual effort far below 
his usual standard. He seemed to be aware of the 
fact, for both morning and evening he made apolo- 
getic allusions to the subject. His church is fully con- 
scious of the precarious condition of his health, and 
as much of the routine work of the parish as is 
practicable is performed by fully qualified assistants. 

Spurgeon's Bible readings, with spicy comments in- 
terspersed, as a rule surpass his sermons in interest. 
A few expressions, heard during my previous visit to 
Europe, three years before, still linger in the cham- 



42 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



bers of memory. Spealving on tlie "Higlivvay of 
Holiness," lie said, '' The best ' way ' God shows us is a 
safe way out of the world." " Don't yon understand 
that ? " said he, at another point ; " why, it is as plain 
as a pike-staff, as plain as the nose on your face." The 
man witli a huge proboscis before him evidently felt 




WHITEHALL IN THE PATS OP JAMES 11. 



that his personal nose had caught the great preacher's 

eye, much to his mortification. 

The administration of the Lord's Supper was a 
.:.. memorable sight. On a large oblong table were thir- 
ty, ty-eight plates of bread and about sixty cups of wine, 
.• the silver service presenting a beautiful appearance 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



43 



by gaci-Hglit. He follows the biblical narrative in the 
exercises, and in the distribiition of the emblems in a 



large degree. 




srsAXXAH weslky's skw tomb. 



The ceremony is jjroperly observed in tho evening. 
The bi'ead is broken, not cut into cubes, as is qui^e 
common in America, at least. Prayer is offered, c 
thanks arc given, and a hymn sung, as suggested by 



44 MY JOURXi:Y TO JERUSALEM. 

the 'New Testament accoimt. He gave tlie emblems 
to twelve deacons, representing the twelve apostles, 
who give to the multitude. The Tabernacle will hold 
twelve thousand people, and fully twenty-five hun- 
dred, if not more, remained at the after-service to 
j)articipate. 

Secret l)ut persevering efforts are still being made 
by the London police to ferret out '' Jack the Rip- 
per," the supposed perpetrator of the nunierous 
Whitechapel murders. The entire detecti\'e force, 
stimulated by the various offers of reward and the 
reproaches of the public press and the people gener- 
ally, is in motion. Private meetings are held by 
those in authority, at which eveiy hint or possible 
suggestion is duly weighed. Even dreams are re- 
lated, and, if considered of importance, receive care- 
ful investiffatiou. Finallv the British lion has been 
thoroughly aroused. Justice is on the track of the 
most blood-thirsty assassin of modern times. Sooner 
or later his ari-est will follow. Unless he proves to 
be a murderous maniac, as many believe, he will 
speedily expiate his crimes on the gallows. 



MY JOURXEY rO JERUSALEM. 45 



CHAPTER III. 

ll.vMiJMis IX West.\ii>,>;tei{ Abbey. — Bixkinuham Palace. — 
A Visit to Windsor Castle. — "Bakk Holiday" at Ox- 
FOKD. — The Bank of England. — Stuolls about London. 
— English ^M.vnneks and Cvstoms. — Stratford-on-Avon. 

" TIk' pilgrim spiiit ha< nut He-d ; 

It walks the noon's broad light; 
It watches the bed of the glorious dead, 

"With the holy stars by night. 
It watches the bed of the brave who have bled, 

And shall guard the ice-bound shore 
Till the waves of the bay where the Mai/Jioicer lay 

Shall foam and freeze no morel" ^ 

WESTMINSTER ABBEY, London, is a vast 
and venerable juausoleiini of the most con- 
spicuous inonarchs, statesmen, poets, authors, divines, 
artists, and military chieftains of earth. It was be- 
gun during the reign of Henry III., and finally fin- 
ished by the continuous action of Edward I. and 
ITeniy YIL, respectively. Sir Christopher Wren, the 
celebrated English architect, designer of St. Paul's 
Cathedral which cost £74:7,954, planned the western 
towers. This great man was buried in the crypt of 
St. Paul's. A black marble slab contains this simple 
but suggestive inscription, '* Si man tiinciituin requiris, 



46 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

Gircumsjnce''^ — meaning, "If you seek his monument, 
look around." 

The abbey is 530 feet long, width at the tran- 
sept 203 feet; the height of the western towers is 225 
feet. On Sundays services open to the public are con- 
ducted at three o'clock P. M. and other hours. The 
singing of the large choir of boys and masculine voices 
is simply wonderful. Unless one comes early and 
secures a seat well forward it is almost impossible to 
understand more than a few words of the sei-mon. 
Cathedrals are built for show rather than for their 
acoustic properties. On Mondays and Tuesdays ad- 
mission is free to all parts of the building. Sixpence 
fee is required to visit the sepulcher of tlie kings 
and other parts of the building. On other days no 
fee is required. A great curiosity at the abbey, the 
coronation chair or "throne used in the coronation 
ceremonies of the kings and queens of Great Britain, 
and which is so splendid in its covering of J'ich silks, 
velvet, and gold, is, in fact, simply an old oaken chair 
of antique pattern. It has been used on all state occa- 
sions for the last six hundred years, and perhaps even 
longer, many reputable writers claiming that they 
have discovered traces of its existence prior to the 
eleventh century. Ages of use have made the old 
oaken frame-work as hard and as tough as iron. The 
back and sides of this throne-chair were formerly 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



47 



painted in various colors. These j^arts are now hid- 
den bj lieavy liangings of satin, silk, and velvet. The 
magic powers attributed to the old relic lie in the 




OLD NEWGATE PRISON. 

seat, M-liicli is made of a heavy, rough-looking sand- 
stone, 20 inches in length, l^ inches in width, and 
19|- inches in thickness. Long before it was wrapped 
in velvet and trimmed in gold, to be used by the 

4 



48 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

Tiidors and the Stuarts, this old stone of stones served 
as a seat diu"ing the coronations of tlii' early Scottish 
kings." 

" The Bank of England was founded in 1694, and 
is the largest monetary establishment in the world. 
It employs nearly one thousand clerks. lu the bullion 
office is an ingenious apparatus for weighing gold and 
silver, and in the weighing office is a machine for 
weighing sovereigns, by which thirty-five thousand 
separate coins can be weighed in a day by a single 
machine. There are ingenious steam machines for 
printing the bank-notes and marking them in nii- 
croscoiDic writing. Over the drawing office is a clock 
having sixteen dials. The collection of ancient coins, 
the bank-note printing machinery, and the bullion 
cellars can be seen by an order, for which application 
in writing should be made to the secretary. Orders 
can also be j)i"Of'ured through the manager of any 
London hank for a customer of such hank and his 
friends. The public are at liberty to walk through 
the offices from nine till four." 

Qukkn's Palaces. — Buckingham Palace, London, 
near St. James Park, is the residence of the queen 
when in the city. It is seldom opened to the public, 
but contains a superb collection of paintings by luoted 
artists. Qneen Victoria's sunnner-honse in her pri- 
vate garden is decorated with choice frescoes by 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 



49 



Eastlake, Maclise, Landseer, Stanfield, and other well- 
known painters. 

Windsor Castle is twenty-two miles west from 
London by the road tlirougli Brentford. It may be 
reached in an hour or less by the Great Western 
Kailway from Paddington, or the South-Avestei-n from 
Waterloo. Windsor occupies a rising- ground on the 



■/ 







OLD LONDON BRIDGK. 



south baidv of the Thames, and is interesting for its 
ancient and extensive castle, the grandest royal resi- 
dence in Great Britain. In the lower court is St. 
George's Chapel, an elegant Gothic edifice, in which 
service is performe<l on Sundays, occasionally in pres- 
ence of the royal residents. Besides the chapel and 
keep, the chief parts of the castle attractive to 



50 MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 

strangers are the state apartments in the upper or 
northern court ; these are exliibited free to visitors. 
during the absence of tlie court, on Mondays, Tues- 
days, Thursdays, and Fridays, between the hours of 
eleven and three in Aviuter, and eleven and four in 
summer. Tickets e;in be obtained at the principal 
shops in London or uf the Lord Chamberlain on the 
I'oyal premises. 

I spent a delightful day in my trip to "Windsor 
Castle, bemg obliged to defer it for some time. I 
finally gained admission, as it is never opened to 
visitors when occupied l)y tlie queen. Passing near 
Buckingham Palace on my return to London, which 
tlie guard in uniform stated was never exhibited to 
the public, I jDassed two young ladies on horseback. 
They were daughtei's of the Prince of Wales, the 
same authority told me. .The horses — beautiful dap- 
ple grays — he described as the " royal stud." The 
animals were in fine condition, and the young - ladies^ 
proved excellent riders. They Avere returning from 
a morning ja'uiit in St. James Park, A\"liicli is near the 
palace. Each Avore a dark riding-dress, and they ■were 
conversing in an animated manner and smiling. Their 
faces were somewhat thin and bore an expression of 
sadness. i 

At tlie Young Men's Christian Association, Lon- 
don, I made a brief call asking the privilege of ex- 



MY JO CRN EY TO JERVSALEM. 



51 



niuiiiiug certain Ainerican religious newspapers, espe- 
cially The ( 'hristian Advocate, pnblislied at New York. 
My request was coni-teonsly granted, though I Avas 
promptly informed that the rooms were uot open tu 
the public ns in America, but for members onlv, the 




•iKAlTOlt's (lATK, LONDON TOWKIl. 

attendant remarking in conclusion that "our system 
would not answer at all for London." 

Judge of my surprise, hoM'evcr, on learning, as I did, 
that the only religious paper taken from America 
was tlie l]oston Watchman, a denominational publica- 
tion. One would tliink that the various branches of 



52 J/r JO VRXE r to jer i 'salem: 

religious tlionght would scarcely be content Avitli so 
limited a range of vision, notwithstanding its excel- 
lent matter and management. 

In Stratford, East London, I discovered a well- 
executed and costly monument erected to the memory 
of eighteen Protestant martvi's who were burned at 
the stake near its site in 1555. Ele^^en men and two 
Avomen were consumed in one fire. One of the men 
was totally blind. Twenty thousand spectators, ac- 
cording to the inscription on the monument, wit- 
nessed the execution. Several suggestive and ajv 
propriate passages of Scripture Avere added to the 
historical account on the shaft, including, " They over- 
came by the blood of the Lamb, and the word of their 
testimony," and, ''They loved not their lives unto 
death." 

The " Fire Monument," built in memory of the 
furious and terrible fire of London, known as the 
" Great Eire,'' is two hundred and two feet high. It 
was designed by Sir Christopher Wren. Erom the 
summit a surpassing and extensive view of London 
is afforded. A nominal fee of threepence is required 
to secure admission. 

Oxford was visited on my return fi'om the Conti- 
nent. The day chosen was unpropitious, it being 
" Bank holiday " in England, when nearly all public 
and private buildings are closed. A regatta was an- 




STATUK OF HOWARD AT ST. PAUL'i:!. 



54 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

iiounced to take place on the Thames in tlie afternoon, 
which attracted a large crowd of ladies and gentle- 
men to its banks in holiday attire. 

The city contains twenty or more institutions of 
learning, which constitute largely the life of the place. 
Shops, boarding-houses, and hotels dejiend on the pat- 
ronage of the students chiefly for existence. Manu- 
facturing, if at all, is conducted on a limited scale. 

Among the curiosities shown at the Ashmolean 
Museum are Cromweirs watch and privy seal ; also, 
Henry VIII.'s sword, bearing the inscription, "De- 
fender of the Faith," which was presented him by the 
pope. Considering the subsequent quarrel between 
that much-married monarch and tlie pope, his widely 
known excommunication, and the ultimate formation 
of the Church of England as a result of that j^rotracted 
dispute, the term seemed quite suggesti\'c. Also, a 
pair of belloM'S once owned b}" Charles II., a gauntlet 
glove worn by Mary Queen of Scots, the riding-boots 
of Queen Elizabeth, the spurs of Charles I., King 
Alfred's jewel (regarded as a great curiosity), the 
steel band that bound Cranmer to the stake Mdien he 
was burned alive in 1556, a piece of charred oak, a 
portion of the stake to which Latimer and Ridley 
were fastened when they suffered death by fire, and a 
cloak of deer-skins, gayly decorated with beads, worn 
by Powhatan, the father of Pocahontas. 




QUADRANGLK OK LINCOLN COLLKCK, 0X1 01il> 




CHAPEL OF LINCOLN COLLKGE. 



56 Jfy JO URNEY TO .TER I 'AVI LE.U. 

Oxford lias sent forth to the world an army of edu- 
cated men, many of Avhom have achieved an enviable 
distinction, including John Weslev, a fellow of Lin- 
coln College, and William E. Gladstone. 

To American eyes it was a decided novelty to wit- 
]iess, as I did, many women of apparent respectability, 
accompanied by their escorts, and in some cases by 
cliildren, at the public bars drinking beer and wine 
amid a crowd of men. 

In other i^articulars manners and customs in En- 
gland differ widely from ours. During the entire 
summer I have seen ladies and misses with straM" bon- 
nets, light-colored dresses, and yet wearing fur capes 
over their shoulders. At first I supposed that they 
were worn for ornament,, but was assured later that 
they were used as a protection from the damp 
weather and sudden changes of the atmosphere. For 
the same cause black hats were M'oi-n generally by the 
gentlemen. Wearing a dark straw hat Avhen I left 
rSew York, I found myself a cons]-)icuous object in 
Great Britain and elsewhere. Street-cars — or trams, 
as they are called here — and the 'buses have seats for 
twenty passengers on top besides the usual number 
within. All vehicles keep to the left instead of the 
right as in America, the rule •'applying to steam rail- 
ways also. 

Drinking-water was difficult to obtain throughout 




ST. MAUY'j: cnTT.ril, OXFORD. 



58 



MY JOURXEY TO JERVSALEM. 



Europe. In no railway station or hotel did I obtain 
water without asking for it; none accessible to all 
as with us. When l)rought it uniformly came in a 




THE BROAD WALK, OXFORD. 



decanter, and was nearly tepid. Ice apparently had 
dwindled to the vanishing point. A gentleman trav- 
eling with me paid one penny (two cents) for a glass 
of water without ice. 



MY JOUnyEY TO .IKRUHALEM. 59 

The ])rioes of sugar in England secuiod ridiculously 
low. Loaf-sugar cut in cubes retails at twopence — 
four cents — a pound, while a liglit brown sugar is sold 
for three cents a pound, (^lioice mixed candy in 
many places sells for eight cents a pound — fourpetice. 
The English youth is thereby enabled to supply bis 
girl with confectionery at a nominal [nice every Sab- 
bath evening, possessing thereby a decided advantage 
over his American cousin. 

Bootblacks in Liverpool and London wear a scarlet 
uniform, a number, and are licensed. Other boys in 
uniform, with a brush and a sort of wooden dustpan, 
plunge constantly among the jjassing vehicles, at the 
li.^k of limb and life, to remove the horse-droppnigs, 
so that the street may be in fair condition. 

CuESTKK.— A brief visit was made at Chester, sev- 
enteen miles from Liverpool. Both cities were hi- 
cluded in our itinerary of 18S6. Founded by the Rom- 
ans before Christ, according to some ancient aiithorities, 
Chester presents many aut-ient structui'es, with a por- 
tion of the wall that once envii'oned the city, including 
n)odei-n residences of a tasteful and attractive charac- 
ter. Horse railroads run through the center of the 
place, the tops of the cars furnishing a convenient 
and economical mode of seeing the cliief points of in- 
terest. 

."^l!-alf(i:(l-on-Avon was i-^ached late at night. Some 



60 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

difficulty Avas . experienced in securing aecoiuuioda- 
tioiis, tlie hotels being crowded. The Golden Lion 
Hotel at length made room for us. A political meet- 
ing relative to home rule and the Gladstone move- 
ment Avas just closing. Lord Dutton, I understood 
the name to be, was conveyed by his party adherents 
to our hotel in an open carriage. Of course, a great 
throng was attracted to the sj)ot, which rendered it 
necessary to defer the matter of sleep. After singing 
" He's a Jolly Good Fellow," and several other rous- 
ing songs, the crowd slowly departed after repeatedly 
drinking the health and success of his lordship. 

Shakespeare's house, the Meniorial Hall, and the 
church where his body reposes were duly visited the 
following day, preceded by a delightful morning stroll 
on the banks of the quiet and beautiful Avon. The 
old, old verse came again and again to my mind as I 
sat in a little boat on the celebrated river : 

' ' The Avon to the Severn runs, 

The Severn to the sea, 
And AViclif s dust is spread abroad 

AVide as the waters be," 

A long arch of tree-tops of great beauty, resembling 
the classic, poetic, and dreamy ap2)earance of Temple 
Street, which crosses " The Green," New Haven, 
Conn., shelters the visitor as he approaches the church. 
Enterhig the small oaken door cut into a larajer one. 



MY JOUItXEY TO JERU!SALEM. 61 

vou are compelled to bow to avoid a blow on the 
head. Why the door was constructed so low it is dif- 
licult to tell, unless it was to induce involuntary rcN-- 
erence. A thump on the cranium of a careless person 
would be likely to evoke emotions quite the reverse 
of devotion, however. 

The tomb of Shakespeare remains undisturbed 
within the cliancel, Avhere his ^\•ife is also buried by 
his side. Possibly the curse hurled at the reckless 
relic-hunter in the rude rhyme on the slab has de- 
terred the peripatetic vandal from chronic rashness. 
These familiar lines, with their antiquated spelling, 
still remain distinctly carved on the plain marble slab 
covering the ashes of the world's greatest dramatist 
and delineator of character, and are as follows : 

'• Good frend for lesus sake forbeare 
To digg the dust encloased hearc : 
Blest be ye man yt S2)ares these stoues, 
And curst be he yt moves my bones." 

Quaint and well-executed cai-vings appear on many 
of the seats of the ancient churcli, including vines, 
Howers, and grotesque heads of various descriptions. 
Some of the iigures, strangely enough, are grossly in- 
decent. It is difficult to understand the motive or 
taste that would cause them to be placed permanently 
in any building at any period in the history of the 
^V(M-ld — especiollv in a place of worship. 



62 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER IV. 

"Wanderings in Edinbuiujii. — Home and Church of John 
Knox. — Melrose Ai5i?ey. — Ai5botsfoku and Sir Walter 
Scott. — Glasgow. — Ship-biilding on the Clyde. — Land 
o' Burns and Tam o" Sitanter. 

" jSTovcmber's sky is chill and drear, 

November's leaf is red and sear ; 

Late, gazing down the steepy lin 

That hems our little garden in, 

Low in the dark and narrow glen, 

You scarce the ri\ailet might ken, 

So thick tiie tangled greenwood grew, 

So feeble trilled the streamlet through ; 

Now murmuring hoarse and fre(jueut seen, 

Through bush and briar, no longer green, 

An angry brook, it sweeps the glade, 

Brawls over rock and wild cascade, 

And, foaming down with doubled speed, 

Hurries its waters to the Tweed."— ^S'ir Waller Scott. 



A 



T Ediubni'gli, in 1SS6, the great exliibitioii was 
still in progress. Yast croAvds, attracted ])y 
the mammoth fair, surged through tlie streets and 
thronged the wide corridors of the exhibition build- 
ings. Every train increased the mass of humanity to 
uncomfortable proportions. The hotels were more 
than full, while landlords and waiters were, if pos- 
sible, more independent and brusque than ever. 



MY JOURXJ'JY TO JERUSALEM. 63 

" Shakedowns " and improvised beds of every de- 
scription were placed in the parlors, dining-rooms, 
and odd corners and nooks of the cheaper hotels es- 
pecially to accommodate the influx of guests. 

The display of goods at the exhibition Avas highly 
i-e.spectal)le, though few novelties were discovered. 
Having just seen the Colonial and Indian Exhibition 
at London and the great Liverpool Fair, besides our 
gigantic exposition at Philadelphia in 1870, as already 
stated elsewhere, the exhibits obviously could not pro- 
duce startling effects on me. At Hol}Tood Palace am- 
ple preparations were making for the expected visit of 
the queen, which occurred a week later. 

The j^rocess of lithographic printing was shown at 
the fair ; also the composition and press-work required 
on established journals, some of which are regularly is- 
sued from the grounds. Scarfs for the ladies, manu- 
factured on the spot, of flexible glass thread in varie- 
gated hues, Avere quite attractive, non-breakable, and 
as pliable as cloth. They M-ere sold at prices ranging 
from sixty to eighty-six cents of our currency. We 
saw them also at the Liverpool buildings. 

The old manse, or parsonage, of John Knox on 
High Street, Edinburgh, is still visited by tourists. 
The building has recently been put in thorough re- 
]>air, though the antique aspect is preserved. Old- 
fashioned furniture of by-gone centuries is found in 



JfV .TOUnXEY TO JERUHALfnr. 65 

(.'ucli room ; but one or two articles, however, are posi- 
tively known to have been used by the sturdy re- 
former — his study-chair and possibly a writing-desk. 
From a side window opening on the busy street 
Knox frequently preached to an innnense congrega- 
tion of eager listeners that stood without. Adjoining 
tlic \enerable structure stands the church bearing his 
iiauK'. It is a modern building, though the descend- 
ants of the families to whom he fornierly preached 
still worship there. ^\. Sabbath morning was profita- 
bly spent in listening to the present incumbent — a 
man of deep thought, excellent voice and presence. 
Strangely enough, though the day was exceptionally 
fine, the entire audience consisted of l)ut fifty-three 
persons. C/ontributions for current expenses were 
deposited on a large silver plate, which was conspicu- 
ously displayed in the vestibule at the front door, 
guarded by two officers of the church. The same 
custom prevailed at "Dr. Guthrie's church," as it is 
still called, where I listened to a plain, practical dis- 
course by his su(^eessor on the same afternoon. In 
Roman Catholic churches in some portions of Europe 
the collection-boxes are extended to the people as 
they assemble before the ser^aces by young men stand- 
ing on the sidewalk. 

The following inscrijDtions were found on tlie win- 
dows of the John Knox church near the pulpit: 



66 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



"John Ivuox, born 1509; died 1572/" "Thomas 
Chalmers, born 1780 ; died 1847." 

The following letter from John Knox to Mrs. 
Eowes will prove of interest to manj. It is taken 




JOHN KNOX. 



from the Life of John Knox, by the late Charles K. 
True, D.D., and published by Cranston & Stowe, Cin- 
cinnati. As a souvenir of those stormy and heroic 
days, it is ])rinted entire with its quaint and original 
Scotch spelling : 



MY JOimXEY TO JERUSALEM. 67 

"The wajis of num ar not in liis awn power. Al- 
beit my journey toward Scotland, belovit mother, was 
maist contrarioiTS to my awn judgement before I did 
interpryse the same ; yet this I praise God for thatne 
wha was the cause external! of my resort to these 
fpiarteris ; that is, I prais God in yow and for yow, 
whom hie maide the instrument to draw me from the 
den of my awn ease (you allane did draw me from 
the rest of quyet stndie), to contemplat and behald 
the fervent thirst of oure bretlu-ene, night and day 
sobbing and gronyng for the breid of lyfe. If I had 
not sene it with my eis, in my awn contry, I cauld not 
have beleveit it. 

" I praisit God, Mhen I was with you, ])erceaving 
that in the middis of Sodonic, God had mo Lottis 
than one, and ma faitliful doctheris than tua. But the 
fervencie heir diotli fer exceid all utheris that I have 
seen. And thairfoir ye sail pacientlie bear altho' I 
heir yet some dayis ; for depart I can not unto sic 
tyme as God quenche thair thrist a litill. Yea, 
mother, their fervencie doith sa ravische me that I can 
not but a accus and condemp my sleuthful coldness. 

God grant thame thair hartis desyre ; and I pray 

you adverteis me of your estait, and of thingis that 
have occurit sence your last wrytting. Comfort your 
self in Godis promissis, and be assureit that God 
steiris up mo frendis than we be war of. ]\Iy com- 




T^^Tl 



MY JOURXFY TO .IRJll'SALE.U. 69 

Miendation to all in yonr company. I commit you to 
the protectioun of Omnipotent. In great liaist ; tlic 
4, of November, 1555. From Scotland. 
'• Your pone. 

''JoiiNK Knox.'' 
•'The Castle" occnpie.< a commanding site, several 
angles and sides l3eing nearly as difficnlt of access as 
Gibraltar itself. A view of surpassing beauty greets one 
from the fortification. The silver waters of the Firth 
of Forth sjiarkled beneath the rays of the afternoon 
sun, which was fast sinking beyond the Avestern hill- 
tops. Edinburgh, with the broad and 1 )eautif iil Princess 
Street, George Street, jtarlcs and buildings, stretched 
like a panorama l)efore mc. A beautiful pei-spective 
of distant and highly cultivated fields, with a Avealth 
of well-kept hedgerows and Scottish mountains in the 
background, lent an additional charm to the scene. 
A wild and rocky ravine, once an eyesore, running 
through Edinburgh has been transformed into a lovel}' 
park.. The crown jewels of the early sovereigns of 
Scotland, and those now worn on state occasions, are 
deposited at the castle and guarded with the utmost 
vigilance. Sir William Kirkoldy bravely defended 
the castle for Mary, Queen of Scots, for a i)eriod of 
thirtv-three days, with an inferior force, against the 
united armies of both England and Scotland. The 
immense cannon, twenty inches in diameter, which 



70 MY joL'Ry£:r to Jerusalem. 

did excellent service at the siege of !Norliam Cas- 
tle in 1514, is exhibited as one of the curiosities of 
the spot. For one hundred and fifty years it was on 
exhibition at the Tower of London, but by the com- 
mand of George lY. it was returned to the castle in 
1829. It was forged at Mons in 1496. The garri- 
son in their neat and picturesque Highland costume 
presented an attractive appearance, especially to the 
eyes of the rustic visitor and lingering glances of the 
bashful maiden by his side. 

Statues of George lY., William Pitt, Thomas Chal- 
mers, and other prominent men have been erected on 
George Street, while at Charlotte Square a very fine 
equestrian figure of Prince Albert is situated. The 
design is quite elaborate, including paneled sides to 
the pedestal, with groups of working-men, sailors, chil- 
dren, and other persons carved upon it, who present 
flowers to the prince. 

Melrose Abbey proved a place full of historic in- 
terest. This Rip Yan Winkle village usually bears 
the name of the abbey in writing or printing its name, 
the ruin, in fact, constituting its chief attraction. A 
quiet restful atinos])liere seems to pervade the place. 
Few people are astir. Marks of haste and bustle 
are happily absent. 

" If thoii wouldst view fair Melrose aright, 
Go, visit it by the pale moonlight; 



.)/ )' JO riiXEY TO JER USA LEM. 7l 

For th(.' yay beams of lightsome day 

Gild but to flout the rains gray; 

When the broken arches are black in night, 

And each shafted oriel glimmers white ; 

When the cold light's uncertain shower 

Streams on the ruin's central tower; 

When buttress and buttress alternately 

Seem framed of ebon and ivory; 

When silver edges the imagery, 

And the scrolls that teach thee to live and die; 

When distant Tweed is heard to rave, 

And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave; 

Then go — ^l^ut go alone the while, 

Then view St. David's ruined pile; 

And, home returning, soothly swear 

Was never scene so sad and fair. " 

The crumbling walls of the abbey, overgro-wn with 
ivy and other traces of vegetable life, present, indeed, 
a mournful picture. A flock of jackdaws, disturbed 
by our presence, flew from their lonely nests in the 
crevices of the gray walls as we approached. 

Founded by David I. in 113(3, in the interest of the 
Cistercian Order of Monks, it was finally dedicated 
about ten years later. Fire and sword have since 
wroua-ht terrible havoc with the beautiful and vener- 
able structure. In 1322 Edward IT. ruthlessly, in a 
spirit of absolute vandalism, robbed it of its sacred 
treasures, and the Church of St. Mary, identified with 
it, was burned. Subsequently, it was again rebuilt at 
the expense of Robert the Bruce. By the incendiary 



72 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

act of Ricliard II., in 1385, it was partially destroyed 
by fire. During the struggle of the Reformers its 
final ruin was achieved, and for more than two cent- 
uries the stones of wliich it was composed wore car- 
ried away, and now form portions of many public 
and private buildings in the vicinity. 

"The raooii on the east oriel shoue. 

Through slender shafts of stately stone, 

By foliage-tracery combined ; 

Thou wouldst have thought some fairy's hand, 

'Twixt pojilars straight, the ozier wand 

In many freakish knot had twined; 

Then framed a spell, when the work was done, 

And changed the willow wreath to stone." 

Heje the heroic and warlike Douglases slumber. 
Williim, Lord of Liddesdale, murdered during the 
reign of David I. wliile on a hunting expedition, was 
buriod within its somber walls. The heart of Robert 
the Bruce was brought back from the bloody battle- 
field in Spain and here interred. On the day of our 
arrival a wreath of wild-flowers with some lines in 
writing rested over his buried heart. Some children 
on the previous Sabbath, from the fresh perusal of 
history, had made this tribute to his memory five 
hundred years after his death. 

ISTowhere in history could I recall so touching an 
instance of undying affection, save in the monumental 
and unparalleled tragedy of Calvary. The sacred Siif- 



jfv JornxEY TO Jerusalem. 73 

ferer, uotwitlistanding the blatant infidelity of modern 
times and the lives of inconsistent professors, is still 
loved by numberless thonsands, in all lands, between 
the rising and setting of the ruddy sun. 

Michael Scott, the reputed wizard, was also buried 
Avithin tlio inclosure. The folloM-ing lines refer to 
the fact : 

"I buried him on St. Michael's uight 
When the bell tolled one and the moon was bright; 
And 1 dug him a chamber among the dead 
When the flooi- of the chancel was stained red, 
That his patron's cross might over him wave 
And scare the fiends from the wizard's grave." 

Sir Walter Scott came fre(]uently from his mansion 
at Abbotsford, tM'O and a half miles distant, when 
preparing certain of his works for the press, spending- 
hours amid the impressive associations of the spot. 

Local tradition asserts that William, Lord Soullis, 
Avas boiled alive in lead at the Xine-stane Hig, a well- 
Icnown region not far distant from Melrose. The 
following lines relate to the statement : 

••And still beside the Nine-stane burn. 

Ribbed like the -sand at mark of sea, 
The ropes, that would not twist nor turn, 

Shaped of the sifted sand you see. 
The black spae-book true Thomas he took ; 

Again its magic leaves he spread; 
And he found that to quell the powerful spell, 

The wizard must be boiled in lead. 



74 -Vr JOURXEY TO JERUSALKM. 

On a circle of stoucs tlicy placed the pot, 

On a circle of stones but barely nine; 
They heated it red and fiery hot, 

Till the burnished brass did glimmer and sliine. 
They rolled him up in a sheet of lead, 

A sheet of lead for a funeral pall ; 
Tliey jDlunged him in the caldron red, 

And melted him, lead, and bones, and all. " 

Arriving at Abbotsford after a pleasant walk from 
the abbey, we found few visitors present, as the hour 
was comparatively early. Tlie building is a sub- 
stantial stone structure. Well-kept grounds, with a 
profusion of flowers and foliage, surround it. A few 
yards from the premises the Tweed goes murmuring 
by in its serpentine pathway to the sea. By a process 
of architectural evolution the house lias grown since 
the period of its erection in 1811 by various additions, 
until its present ample proportions were reached in 
1821 under Sir Walter's immediate supervision. 

The interior is practically a museum, so numerous 
are the curiosities which accumulated during the life- 
time of the distinguished author. Space can only be 
spared for the mention of a few of them. 

The library, sixty by fifty feet, has a roof of carved 
oak, and contains nearly twenty thousand volumes, 
many of them being exceedingly rare and valuable. 
I was allowed to sit in the vacant arm-chair of the 
great writer as a special favor, a privilege seldom 



J/)' JOCRXEY TO JERUSALEM. 75 

Hccorded to visitors, lest the leathern covering sliould 
M'ear ont iDrematurely. 

Among other curiosities were Highland broad- 
swords, targets, matchlocks of the iifteenth century, 
bugle horns, and ancient instruments of toi-ture ; Rob 
Roy's gun ; Xapoleon I.'s pistol, found in his carriage 
after his flight from the overwhelming defeat at 
Waterloo ; the hunting flask of James I., and the iron 
mask worn by George "Wishart when he was burned 
at the stake. 

Implements of warfare also exist, terrible souvenirs 
of the dark period, when 

' ' Ancnim Moor 
Rau rod Avitli English blood; 
Where the Douglas tiue, and the Iwld Buccleuch, 
'Gainst keen Lord Evers stood. " 

There are also two elbow-chairs, the gift of Pope 
Pius, an ebony writing-desk presented by George III., 
and a silver urn sent by Lord Byron from Greece. 
The garments last worn by the illustrious and inde- 
fatigable writer are also shown, consisting of the plaid 
trowsers, striped vest, l)lue coat, a broad brimmed 
white hat, and a pair of well brushed walking-shoes. 
By them lies his walking-stick — one of a dozen or 
more collected by him. New canes were frequently 
selected by Sir "Walter during his numerous rambles 
in the forest. The guide described him as a bad shot, 



76 3fY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

but observed that he excelled as a lishennan, in reply 
to an interrogation from me. 

A large chest strongly bound with metal bands was 
also shown, which, it was soberly declared, was the 
identical one in M'hicli the bride playfully hid herself 
at the famous wedding-feast — and, the spring-lock 
preventing her escaj^e, it became her coffin. Since 
then the tale has been told in many forms, alike in 
poetry and prose, Mith, of course, many fanciful addi- 
tions, though the story is based upon sober fact. The 
chest is said to have been subsequently presented to 
Sir Walter, who was a well-known antiquarian. 

His remains rest at Drvburo-h Aljbev. The massive 
granite shaft bears the simple inscription, " Sir Walter 
Scott, Baronet, died Se])tember 21st, 1832." By his 
side sleep his wife, his son, Lieutenant-Colonel Scott, 
who died at sea, and Lock hart, his son-in-law. 

' ' So there in solemu solitude, 

In that sequestered spot, 
Lies mingled witli its kindred clay 

The dust of Walter Scott 1 
The glowing dreams of bright romance 

That, teeming, filled his ample brow; 
Where is his daring chivalry ? 

AVhere are his visions now ? 

Tlie flashing eye is dimmed for aye ; 

The stalwart limb is stiff and cold ; 
No longer pours his trum])et note 

To wake the jousts of old! 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 77 

The generous heart, the uijeu haud, 

The niddy cheek, the silver hair, 
Are mokh^riiig iu the silent dust — 

All, all is loiu'lv there." 

An atklitioiial walk tVuiu the mansion of a mile 
over a t^mootli road, between neatly trimmed hedge- 
rows, brought me to the banks of the bonny Tweed. 
1^0 bridge was fonnd ; but a rowljoat did good service 
and conveyed nie to the opposite shore, the oars being 
vigorously plied by tlie ferry-woman, who received 
one penny (two cents) from each passenger, with 
wliich she was quite content. As no hotel or village 
was found, here and thei'e a house being the only in- 
dication of civilized life, I managed to secure a lunch 
at one of them, and after waiting two hours took a 
very slow train, which, after many delays, brought me 
to my hotel in Edinl)urgh. 

Glasgow was passing through a rainy period at 
the time of my vi.sit. As elsewhere, however, no time 
was wasted iu consetjuence of bad weather. The stone 
Iniildings, darkened by smoke and age, seemed almost 
black during M-et weather. Xearly all Scottish build- 
ings are constructed of stone frcjni luitive cpiarries. 
Durability and a wearisome sameness are the impres- 
sions made by them on the mind of the traveler. 

This citv traces its origin to St. Mungo, who built 
a cell near the spot in 5o9 \. D. PI is followers, who 



78 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

listened to liis preaching, finally constituted him a 
bishop and king, and the nucleus of the great city of 
Glasgow existed. 

George Square contains several fine statues of dis- 
tinguished personages ; Queen Yictoria, Livingstone, 
James Watt, Sir Walter Scott, Sir John Moore, Lord 
Clyde, Thomas Campbell, Prince Albert, Thomas 
Graham, Robert Burns, Sir Robert Peel, and James 
Oswald being thus honored. 

On Queen Street stands a fine equestrian statue of 
Wellington wdth paneled sides, giving spirited and 
well-executed views of his principal engagements. 
Kelingrove Park, beautifully laid out, looked fresh 
and inviting, owing to recent rains, and dis^jlayed 
fountains. The park contains choice landscape views 
and several pieces of statuary, one in memory of Rob- 
ert Stewart, through whose iiistrumentality the excel- 
lent system of water supply was introduced into this 
manufacturing city. From the park hill a superb 
view of that portion of the city is afforded. It ap- 
peared to be the Fifth Avenue section of tlie city, 
so to sjieak. Two large cannon captured at Sebasto- 
pol occupy a conspicuous position at tlie summit. 

Glasgow is entitled to the honor of launching the 
first steamer built in Europe, in 1812. James Watt 
was a native of this city, and as early as 1763 suc- 
cessfully applied steam as a motive power. On the 



MV JO URNEY TO JER USA LEM. 79 

Clyde I counted lietween fifty and sixty iron and 
steel steamers of various dimensions and stages of 
progress in process of construction. The United 
States, as well as other nations, in view of the regula- 
tions respecting tariff and other causes, find it much 
more profitable to procure their ships in a foreign 
market than at home. 

A radical defect exists somewhere in our theory of 
f)olitical economy, which successfully drives American 
shipping merchants to Great Britain, where hundreds 
of iron steam-ships are constructed, which, under a 
more statesmanlike policy, would be manufactured by 
our own skillful and deserving meclianics. 

On the steamer Madge Wildfire I sailed for the 
" Land o' Burns and Tam O'Shanter." Many charm- 
ing villages dotted the banks of the Clyde as we sped 
along, including Greenock, Androssan, and Rothesay. 
Several of them derive their chief importance from 
the excellent sea-beaches that exist, which, with 
summer hotels, attract many visitors, from various 
points in Great Britain especially. 

The day for the season was cold and cheerless, and 
a drizzling rain fell much of the time. At Ayr we 
arrived at length, but a drive of nearly three miles to 
the Burns cottage and monument remained. The 
latter was erected in 1820 at a cost of $17,000. It is 
situated within an acre of well-kept ground near the 



80 MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 

old cottage and kirk. From the top of the monu- 
ment a good view of the adjacent country is fur- 
nished, each object suggesting some stirring lines 
from the writings of the farmer poet. The well 

where 

"Muugo's mither hauged liersel,"' 

and in another direction the tourist can ''descry quite 
clearly 

" Alloway's auld haunted kirk." 

At the cottage, bearing the inscription, " Robert 
Burns, born January 25, 1759; died July 21, 1796," 
the bed on which Burns was born is exhibited, to- 
gether with many other objects of interest. Souvenirs 
on sale in the house were eagerly purcliased by 
visitors, and after a lunch, furnished in the same 
building, the " auld kirk " was visited, which the poet 
attended wlien a boy. It is a ruin, a mere shell, the 
walls only remaining. Old graves in the neglected 
yard surrounding the church were scrutinized, includ- 
ing that of Burns's father. Wearisome guides who 
reel ofl: yards of Burns's poetry unbidden in a barbar- 
ous dialect, and inflict apocryphal stories on the mis- 
erable listener in ardent hopes of gain, are politely 
snubbed. 

But the hour for return has arrived. We must not 
miss our steamer. Had time afforded we should 
have called at the residence of Burns's niece, M'ho 



jrr Jiti'BXEY TO JERUSALEM. 81 

resides in the iieigliboihood. So away \vc dasJi at a 
rapid rate in our well-tilled omnibus over a most ex- 
cellent road, acro.ss the "brig o'Doon/' and arrive in 
good season at the steani-boat landing at Ayr. 

On the way the "Wallace tower, erected on the site 
of his imprisonment, is pointed out. It is a hand- 
some Gothic shaft, built in 1835, and is one hundred 
and fifteen feet in height. The old tavern which 
Burns frequented still !-tands. Alas I his CA)nvivial 
habits cut short a promising and extraordinary career 
at the early age of thirty-six. His description of 
Nancy, and their blind and unitual infatuation for 
each other, a vei'se of Avhich is quoted, might also be 
applied to the seductive and deadly fumes of the 
bottle. An undercurrent of religious sentiment was 
ever and anon disclosing itself, however, in his nature 
and writings, as the " Cotter's Saturday Xight," and 
several other puenis abundantly show. 

•• ril ne'er blame my partial faiu-y — 
Xaething could resist my Naucy ; 
IJut to see her was to love her, 
Love but her and luve forever. 
Had Ave never loved sac kindly. 
Had we never loved sae blindly, 
Xever met or never parted. 
We had neVr been broken hearted." 

It was night when the Madif*^ WlUlfirp- landed uj? 
at the bi'idge quay of Glasgow. 



82 -^/r JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER V. 

The Belfast Riots. — Ikelands Lakgest Lake. — Concern- 
ing Crows. — Battle of the Boyne. — Jaunting-cak 
Rides. — Dublin and its Sights. — Siege of Deuky, 1689. 
— Giants' Causeway. 

"Let Erin remember the days of old, 

Ere her faithless sons betray'd her ; 
When Malachi wore the collar of gold 

Which he won from her proud invader ; 
When her kings with standard of green uufurl'd 

Led the Red Branch Knight to danger; 
Ere the emerald gem of the western world 

Was set in the crown of a stranger. 

" On Lough Neagh's bank as the fisherman strays, 

When the clear cold eve's declining. 
He sees the round tower of other days 

In the wave beneath him shining ; 
Thus shall memory often in dreams sublime 

Catch a glimpse of the days that are over; 
Thus sighing look through the waves of time 

For the long faded glories they cover. " 

ON my arrival at Belfast, after a rough passage on 
a Scotcli steamer from Glasgow, the streets of 
that enterprising and attractive city were stained with 
the red blood of many of her citizens. For several 
weeks the deplorable internecine struggle had con- 
tinued, with occasional lulls in the war of religionists 
— Protestant and Catholic. Many points of the city 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 83 

were occupied by the military, especially centers of 
the riotous population. Weak and "goody-goody" 
proclamations from the civil authorities appeared in 
the public press, culculated from their inherent im- 
becility to stimulate rather than repress disordei*. 
But little better, if any, were the editorials of leading 
journals. The mob had terrorized the entire region 
of country, and knew it. Many shopkeepers, fearing 
the loss of trade, the destniction of tlieir property, or 
in downright cowardice, were suspected of furnishing 
moral ai(i at least to the rioters. Mistaken and fatal 
policy I Country buyers were conspicuous by their 
absence. Tourists by scores who had secured rooms 
at hotels and elsewhere countermanded their orders. 
The summer, which ordinarily produces a rich linan- 
cial harvest, was worse than wasted. Fears of famine 
and terrible suffering on the part of the poor during 
the approaching winter were freely expressed by 
many thoughtful citizens. 

The " island men," as they were styled, ship car- 
penters and other working-men, went strongly guarded 
by the military and constabulary to their daily toil. 
Crowds, about equally composed of friends and foes, 
witnessed their return to their families at nightfall. 
Spies in citizens' clothing from the police office, and 
also the mob, dogged my steps in various portions 
of Belfast. Other tourists observed that they were 



84 ^^^y JOUltXEY TO JBEl^'^ALinr. 

watclied also, while sonic were warned to keep witliin 
doors or prudently depart l)j an early train. 

What is the disturbance about ? I^othing ! The 
bad blood which culminated in the battle of the 
Boyne in 1690 still exists. The brilliant victory of 
William, Prince of Orange, and the disastrous defeat 
of the army led by James II.— a poor general and a 
consummate coward — settled nothing. An annual 
crop of "Orange riots" has been the unhappy fruit 
of that bloody contest on July 12, its anniversary, in 
many lands since that period. 

Fitz Jolin Porter's theory of throttling a riot at 
the outset, even at the cost of lives, has apparently 
not reached Ireland. A few experienced American 
detectives to feri-et out the ringleaders and bring them 
to swift punishment might pr()ve quite useful also. 
Ilad^Inspector Williams and the New York police force 
been on duty in Belfast at the inception of the fresh 
disturbances that summer, the miserable battle of 
"Kilkenny cats" would have been stamped out in 
twenty-four hours. 

, Belfast presents comparatively few points of in- 
terest to the average tourist. Its broad and well 
cleaned streets, public buildings, and charming pri- 
vate residences of the " well-to-do " portion of the 
population convey a pleasing aspect, however. The 
Albert Memorial Tower, witli its huge clock having 




THATCHED COTTAGE, IKELAND. 



86 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

four dials, one on each side, stands in an open plaza 
and is regarded witli much local pride by citizens. 
Situated on the river Lagan, at the very head of Bel- 
fast Lough, with a harbor adapted to the capacity of 
a medium class of ocean steamers, the city is the com- 
mercial center of the Province of Ulster. It is dis- 
tant from Dublin eighty-eight miles. The popula- 
tion, owing to the emigration to America and the 
war of conflicting sects, constantly fluctuates, seldom 
rising above one hundred thousand. A substantial 
stone bridge crosses the Lagan, near which the ship- 
ping quays are situated. Its industries include ship- 
building, foundries, vitriol works, tan-yards, flour- 
mills, distilleries, breweries, and the manufacture of 
rope, felt, cotton, and linen goods. Steamers sail 
regularly foi' London, Liverpool, Dublin, Glasgow, 
and many other ports in Great Britain. Queen's Col- 
lege stands at the head of its educational institutions, 
and for many years has received an appropriation of 
£7,000 for its maintenance. Several railways extend 
from the city to various parts of the island, and 
" home rule " of a character that will restore harmony 
among her people is all that is required to enhance her 
future prosperity. 

Lough jS^eagh, the largest lake in Ireland, I saw 
from a point near Antrim, a quiet and secluded spot. 
My position was not well chosen, I learned later. 



MY JOURNEY To JERUSALEM. 87 

Tliough tlie broad expanse of water, with great white 
waves tossing in their wild grandeur before tlie brisk 
morning breeze, was distinctly visible, still it was re- 
mote from any human habitation. No dock or boats 
were in sight. A few men were adjusting their 
fishing-nets preparatory for future uses. A company 
of young men strolled through the adjacent woodland 
that fringed the shore, while the inevitable crow, so 
]>revalent and unmolested in England, Ireland, and 
Scotland, gave a few dismal caws and flapped his 
dusky wings over my head. Strangely enough, the 
crow, the victim of scarecrows, poison, and shotguns 
at the hands of the American farmer, is allowed to 
'' be fruitful and multiply " indefinitely by the agri- 
culturist of Great Britain. His longevity is due to 
the prevailing impression that his diet consists of 
worms and bugs rather than grain. 

At Drogheda I left the train to visit the famous 
battle-field of the Boyne. Securing a jaunting-car 
at the railway station, with a good-natured and com- 
municative driver, we started for the historic spot, 
some three miles or more distant. Much of the way, 
after leaving the ancient place, with its grim stone 
walls and nai-row streets, the road ran through a 
pleasant farming region situated on the beautiful 
banks of the Boyne. The position held by the troops 
of James II. in the memorable battle was pointed out, 



88 MY JOrHNJ^JY TO JERUSALEM. 

and certainly it was a strong one — in fact, a miniature 
Gibraltar. About tliirty thousand troops were en- 
gaged on each side. Long before the battle was over, 
according to Ivolil, King James fled precipitately from 
the field. By a forced ride he reached Dublin Castle 
in a few hours. Here he complained to Lady Tyr- 




AN IRISH HOTEL. 



connel that her countrymen, the Irish, were cowards — 
would run well, but not fight. With keen native wit, 
which cut like a Damascus blade, she sarcastically re- 
plied, Avhilc her eyes flashed fire : 

"In this, as in every thing else, Your Majesty sur- 
passes them, for you have won the race."' The next day 
tlie king, anxious for his ])ersonal safety, continued 



MY joruyi-:Y to jEnrsAi.KM. 89 

liis liiglit on horseback, reacliing Watcrfonl at iiigliti'all, 
one Inindred miles distant from Dublin. At length 
he arrived in Fi-ance, Avliere lie died of apoplexy eleven ^ 
years subsequently, aged sixty-eight, bearing the title 
of WiUiam III., the Prince of Orange jointly assumed 
the throne with ]\[ary, his wife, and the righteous 
reign of ^Villiatn and Mary began. 

A tasteful monument situated on a knoll, erected 
in 1736. connnemorates the victory achieved by the 
forces successfully led by William, who was the son-in- 
law of the defeated and deposed monarch. 

Dundalk, fifty-eight miles from Belfast, on the line 
of the Great Northern Eailway leading to Dublin, is 
a promineut manufacturing town. It derives its chief 
importance, however, in the history of Ireland as the 
place where the coronation of successive kings has 
taken place. Here Edward Bruce was crowned King 
of Ireland. In an engagement with the Enghsh two 
years afterward he fell incrtally wounded. 

Dublin, the capital, is replete with objects of in- 
terest and historical associations. The castle, the 
official residence of the lord lieutenant, may be re- 
garded as the " head center," to borrow the language 
of the Fenian. For a sixpence the doors of the state 
apartments swung open before us, with a young lady 
as guide. She counseled the visitors to " walk on the 
Holland" that had been spread to preserve the carpets, 



90 JilY JOURNEr TO JERUSALEM. 

whicli direction we faithfully complied with. Paint- 
ings representing a long line of lord lieutenants 
stretching through very many years adorned the 
walls of the spacious suite of rooms, together with 
works of art of a miscellaneous character. The fur- 
niture, costly and durable, was well covered to pro- 
tect it from dust and Avcar. 

Another sixpence admitted us to the Chapel Royal, 
where the lord lieutenant, his family, and a few 
other persons have private services on the Sabbath. 
How potent is money ! All doors except those of 
heaven open before it. I reminded some of the 
prominent citizens that the Great Teacher did not con- 
duct services under lock and key, but on, the green, 
grassy sward, and by the sacred and solemn sea-shore 
of Galilee ; that he " ate with publicans and sinners," 
'•' the common people hearing him gladly." How 
strange to ns a private chapel for the President of the 
United States would seem. The chapel is composed 
of richly carved oak, and is a gem of beauty. 

On another occasion, in company with a govern- 
ment clerk, I was permitted to visit the beautiful 
grounds connected with the private residence of the 
lord lieutenant at Phoenix Park. The scene of the 
brntal and cowardly murders of Lord Cavendish and 
Burke was pointed out. Yisitors on foot and by car- 
riage came to the spot every few moments. A volun- 



-]/}' JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 9t 

teer guide described the tragedy to as many as eared 
to listen to liiiii, and eagerly clutched the proffered 
pence and halfpennies which were extended to him. 
An ap^jle, cake, and lemonade woman did a small 
business in the sale of refreshments to the sight-seers 
who gathered. 

The extent of the park surpiised me. Much of it 
is left in its primitive wildness, with but slight changes 
made by the landscape gardener. Wellington's monu- 
ment (himself an Irishman), on the same grounds, 
is an immense granite shaft, in form reminding one 
faintly of the pyramids. It is a curious fact that 
Wellington was born at Dublin the same year that 
Xapoleon Avas born at Corsica, The chief victories 
of the great warrior are inscribed upon the column. 
Not far distant stands the equestrian statue of Lord 
Gough in recognition of his important military 
achievements. 

At the head-quarters of the constabulary a police 
drill was in progress to sweet music from the Dublin 
band, pronounced by my guide the best musicians in 
Ireland. About seventy-iive raw recruits in citizens' 
dress, undeterred by the broken heads of tlie Belfast 
police force at the hands of an infuriated mob, were 
eagerly undergoing a militai-y drill, expecting soon 
to be blended permanently with the men in actual 
service. 



92 3/r JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

In other partions of the city some veiy line statues 
of several of the eminent sons of Ireland were ob- 
served. Tlie O'Connell monument ; Nelson's column ; 
with fine statues of 0'r)rien, Goldsmith, Moore, Grat- 
tan, and an equestrian figure of George lY. in a curi- 
ous costume, the latter having the appearance of a 
hunted Modoc fleeing for life before the SAvift horses 
of the United States cavalry. 

The discussion over the question of " home rule," 
temporarily defeated, at least at the polls, promises to 
evoke a prolonged and bitter contest. Since nearly 
one half of the voting population has expressed a de- 
sire for the resuscitation of the home Parliament at 
Dublin, I was anxious to visit the old Parliament 
buildings still standing. They ai-e in excellent repair, 
now being occupied by the Bank of Ireland. The 
House of Commons is used as the counting-room, while 
the House of Lords serves the purpose of a bank par- 
lor. The magic English sixpence took me through 
the building, with a bank porter as a guide, who not 
only furnished me Avith some valuable information, 
but actually allu\\ed me to take an unchallenged seat 
in the House of Lords ! ]S"o material change has been 
made in the latter room since the final dissolution of 
the Irish Parliament and the union of Ireland with 
Great Britain in 1801. 
« As an illustration of the low Avages paid in Ireland 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 93 

to a certain clasb of clerk« I \vould mention those re- 
ceived by a yoiino" lady in cliarge of a railway refresh- 
ment counter in Dublin. Learning that I was an 
American, she was anxious to glean information re- 
garding our country, including the wages received in 
various avocations. Her salary was, she informed 
me, but twelve pounds per annum, including her 
meals at the i-estaurant. Out of this she must pay 
for her lodgings, dress well, and be on duty from 
half past four A. M. until midnight. If the salaries in 
other departments of labor are proportionately low it 
is not surprising that thousands continue to sail for 
the American continent as a veritable " Land of 
Promise." 

A day was spent at Kingstown, Bray, and Killiney, 
in the suburbs of Dublin. They serve the purposes 
of Long Branch and ^Newport during the summer 
season, affording the people of the Irish metropolis 
an opportunity to enjoy a sniff of the sea air or a salt- 
water bath at a moderate expense. From Mt. Ma- 
])as, in the village of Killiney, I secured a superb and 
never-to-be-forgotten view of the entire region of 
country. The monument on its summit and the sub- 
stantial \valls inclosing the grounds were paid for by 
Sir John Mapas, during a year of severity, to furnish 
employment for the suffering and starving poor in 
the vicinitv. IMountains, valleys, well-tilled farms. 



94 -1/3^ JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

the winding pathway of tlie railway, which at last 
lost itself in a tunnel in the moimtain like a snake 
that has found its hole, were traceable. The expan- 
sive waters of St. George's Channel and the Irish Sea, 
dotted here and there by the smoke of a distant 
steamer, or bearing on their glassy bosoms sailing 
vessels of different dimensions, whose snowy sails 
seemed like the wings of the dove conveying the 
seamen and officers to their destined haven, con- 
stituted a delightful spectacle. 

Much to my regret I was compelled to omit xsi^ 
contemplated visit to Cork and Blarney Castle, in 
its vicinity, owing to a lack of time. According to 
the familiar tradition, whosoever visits the " Groves 
of Blarney " and imprints a kiss upon the " Blar- 
ney-stone " thenceforward becomes wonderfully elo- 
quent and fascinating in speech. Or, as the song 
goes, 

"There is a stone there 
That whoever kisses, 
O, he never misses 
To grow eloquent; 
'Tis he may clamber 
To a lady's chamber, 
Or become a member 
Of Parliament. 
A clever spouter 
He'll sure turn out, or 
An out and outer 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 95 

To be let alone ! 

Don't hope to hinder him, 

Sure he's a pilgrim 

From the ' Blarney-stone.' " 

Of course such extraordinary powers would not be 
bad to have. How serviceable for the political 
stump orator, or when collecting bad debts, or in set- 
tling disputed claims and overcharges with one's land- 
lord at his hotel or with the omnipresent hackman, 
or in adjusting a heated domestic dispute with one's 
mother-in-law. Still, self-denial must be practiced. 
It would not do for some people to receive all the 
good things of earth. So I compromised the matter 
and bestowed several ardent kisses on the rugged 
rocks of Mt. Mapas, which, after all, may serve me 
quite as well as the " Blarney-stone." 

A tram, or street-car, as we style it in America, 
brought me to the famous Donnybrook fair-grounds 
in the outskirts of Dublin. No exhibition has been 
given there for a period of twenty-five years. Build- 
ings will soon cover the original site. The Donny- 
brook church (Catholic) stands near the premises 
with its doors hospitably open, as is customary with 
that denomination, welcoming alike the Protestant 
or one of their own faith. Let the day soon dawn 
when the doors of our own faith shall also be swung 

open in a similar manner ! 

7 



96 -Vy JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

"What crowds oiice attended the fair, which lasted a 
week or more ! People from remote parts of the isl- 
and and from near by ; men in broadcloth and cor- 
duroy, in new garments and in rags; women in 
homespmi linen, and others in silks and satins ; sheep, 
cattle, goats, pigs, fruit, vegetables, and a thousand 
other attractions. What warm greetings on the part 
of old friends ! And, alas ! occasionally at least, what 
vigorous combats with the shillalah when the passions 
were iired with whisky. How calm the green fields 
seem now, like the smooth smiling sea when the tem- 
pest has subsided ! 

The Sabbath spent in Dublin was quiet and rest- 
ful. At a Church of Ireland service (the Magdalen) 
in the morning I found a good-sized congregation, 
and listened to a thoughtful discourse. In the even- 
ing I saw a small congregation, about seventy-five in 
all, at the Rutland Square Pi'esbyterian Church. A 
good sermon, plain and pi-actical, was given. The 
choir sang each psalm at such a rapid rate that even 
when the tunes were familiar it was quite difficult to 
keep company with them. No organ or instrumental 
music of any kind were used during the service. 
Dr. John Hall was pastor of this church previous to 
his acceptance of a $10,000 call in gold from his pres- 
ent parish at Fifth Avenue, New York. 
O Fewer tourists have visited Ireland the present 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 97 

season (1889) tluui formerly. The riotous proceedings 
which have occurred in portions of the country are 
some of the chief causes, as ah-eady stated. A driver 
of a jaunting-car, as lie took me on my journey, deeply 
deplored the hard times in liis calling. 

"No business is beiug done," he continued; ''and 
you," he said in conclusion, "are about the only gen- 
tleman in the place." 

I did not construe this to be a personal compli- 
ment, but, on the contrary, inferred that it was a 
local term, imjDlying a tourist, or a person with money 
to spend, ti-aveling for pleasure. How multitudes of 
people in Ireland subsist is an unsolved problem, 
even in the summer season. During the winter the 
gaunt wolf of hunger and absolute want must make 
miserable many a Jiumble home. As in all great 
cities the world over, Dublin has its streets of down- 
right wretchedness, poverty, and crime. A few ])al- 
try pence derived from some unknown source must 
keep them alive somehow. Many struggle for years 
to accumulate sufficient funds to secure a steerage 
passage to America. Scarcely a family with whom I 
conversed but hoped to hear through me from 
friends in the United States. Often they could not 
tell where they were located. One poor peasant was 
anxious to hear from a relative in " Rockford," but 
could not tell in what State it was. He was surprised 



98 ^fy JO URXE Y TO JER USA LEM. 

Avlicu I told him that there probably Avas a score of 
j)laces bearing the same name in the Union. 

Londonderry is a city of ancient origin. It is sit- 
uated on an oval-shaped hill, the ancient wall with 
four gates remaining, though the place lias grown 
immensely beyond the original barriers. Derry is 
the name by which it was first known, and the one 
most frequently used in business circles to-daj^ The 
prefix " London " dates from the time of James IL, 
who granted charters to twelve London comjjanies 
after the rebellion at that period had been subdued. 

At the beginning of the siege of 1689, while the 
citizens had nearly lost their heads at the approach 
of King James's troops under Lord Antrim, several 
apprentice boys, with rare presence of mind, closed 
the gates of the city against the invaders. A terrible 
siege of one hundred and five days ensued. So hard 
were the inhabitants pressed for provisions that dogs 
and rats were eagerly devoured, more than two thou- 
sand persons perishing in the awful struggle. 

In commemoration of the noble action of the ap- 
prentice boys the event is duly celebrated with an 
" apprentices' holiday " once a year. The general 
commanding during the siege, who favored surren- 
dering the city to the foe, is then burned in efiigy. 
A fine structure, known as the "Apprentice Boys' 
Hall," has also been erected, besides a fine Doric col- 



My JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 99 

umn on wliicli is a statue of tlie Rev. George Walker, 
who assisted in the defense of the city with great 
courage and stimulated the drooping spirits of the 
brave and patriotic citizens. The river Foyle divides 
the place. A substantial bridge crosses the broad 
and beautiful stream to the opposite shore, which is 
still styled Waterside, though embraced within the 
city limits. Our route to the Giants' Causeway led 
through the picturesque villages of Coleraine, Port- 
rush, and in full view of Dunluce Castle and the bor- 
ders of the great Atlantic. The castle exhibits its 
outer walls and general outlines only. Wliat tradi- 
tions and historic tales linger around the spot ! — love, 
marriage, hate, war, the rise and fall of conflicting 
clans. How full of suggestive points to the poet, 
novelis^t, and play-writer ! 

At Portrush an excellent and imposing monument 
to the memory of the celebrated Dr. Adam Clarke, 
the industrious, scholarly, and profound Wesleyan 
commentator, was erected in 1859. Funds for the 
cause were contributed by his admirers in the United 
States and Great Britain. At Port Stewart a memo- 
rial building was also erected in recognition of his 
services to the Christian world, which is used as a 
church and school-house. Di". Clarke died of cholera, 
August 26, 1832. 

The " Giants' Causeway " formed a fitting and sub- 



100 MY JOURNEY To J JERUSALEM. 

lime climax to my devious and weary wanderings in 
Ireland, not to speak of many other lands. Nature is 
here presented in some of its wildest and almost inex- 




Clarke's monument, portkush. 



plicable aspects. The cav^erns into which gigantic 
waves, seething and foaming, dash with relentless 
fury when the tide is rising, the basaltic columns 



MY JOVKXKY To Jl^.RUSALmi. 101 

.stretching a thousand feet or more out, out, until lost 
in the deep blue sea, ai'e alike objects of vast interest. 
Then there is the stone and arched gateway, looking 
like the work of mortals; the organ, as forms resem- 
bling organ-pipes on the sides of the cliff are called ; 
the columns themselves, cut as if by square, compass, 
and chisel, with regular sides, varying capriciously. 
They included the quadrangle, heptagon, octagon, 
and possibly other forms in the strange aggregation. 

But few tourists were present, since the season was 
well advanced and the morning positively cold. We 
stood in the bleak wind that swept down upon us 
from the sea. An army of guides, hotel runners, 
peddlers, and beggars, regarding us as their lawful 
prey, descended on our party in full force, like a 
swarm of mosquitoes around a belated traveler in a 
gloomy swamp. Following my guide, as the water 
was too rougli for the use of roM^boats, I was led to 
the edge of the precipice where the " Shepherd's 
Path " would lead us to the prominent points of in- 
terest. After following him for a time do^vn the 
dizzy heights, almost perpendicular, I gave up in de- 
spair. Hanging over the awful abyss by the ends of 
my fingers, with an inch of stone for one foot and 
the other on nothing, it was a critical moment. 
"Weighing nearly two hundred pounds, I could not 
long endure the unusual and terrible strain. My 



102 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

strength was failing. The probability of being dashed 
to pieces on the rocks one hundred feet below was 
manifest. Home was three thousand five hundred 
miles away. Encouraged by the guide, I at last rested 
one foot in his hand and slid down to a better foot- 
hold in comparative safety. An hour of careful walk- 
ing along the front of a frightful precipice in a goat's 
path, without a bush or support of any kind to pre- 
vent my fall. All things finally end, and so did the 
descent. When I reached the bottom I was utterly 
worn out ; my clothing much the worse for the trip. 
I dared hardly look at the wild waves at the base of 
the clifi coming down lest dizziness should cause me 
to fall. All points of the Causeway were carefully 
examined, however, but the perils of that unhappy 
hour are inefiaceably engraven on my memory. Ow- 
ing to the severe muscular strain and nervous shock 
I was so lame and exhausted for several days that ex- 
ertion proved an absolute torture. 

According to Rev. John Hall, D.D., himself a dis- 
tinguished and widely known native of the " Emer- 
ald Isle," Sligo possesses great natural attractions, and 
is graphically described as follows : " County Sligo is 
naturally picturesque witli 'mountain, stream, and sea,' 
and its county town, Sligo, with nearly eleven thousand 
people, and the capital of the north-west, is in a most 
striking and beautiful position. It lies in a valley up 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 103 

to which, through smooth green islands, stretches 
modestly an arm of tlie sea. On one 8i(Je, a few 
miles off, the grand mountain, Knocknaroe, and on 
tlie other Benbulbin, tower aloft, and both slope 
down gracefully to the water's edge. Following 
them backward the eye traces range after range of 
graceful form, with space for fertile valleys between. 
Ko other town is known to me with surroundings 
more impressive. 

" The harbor admits steamers big enough to go to 
Liverpool and Glasgow once a week. Just now an 
American steamer with three thousand tons of corn is 
lying at the entrance, tenders carrying her cargo into 
the town. The channel ought to grow deeper to re- 
ceive such visitors. But what alterations have forty 
years made in the place ? To begin with, the dress 
of the people has changed. The old frieze, by which 
a Connaught man used to be known, has given place 
to common cloth, and the fancy varieties, such as ten- 
nis players affect, are common. 

" The women favor flowers on their hats. Many 
girls and women wear what used to be counted boys' 
caps. The heels of their boots have gained in depth 
what they have lost in breadth. All the cheaper or- 
namentation abounds, including chains that look like 
gold, and stones that are not very precious. A num- 
ber of the houses have been improved and public 



104 ^fy JOITRNEY To JERVSALEJr. 

buildings have advanced notably. But, alas ! the 
town, as a whole, is not bigger nor busier than forty 
years ago. A common working-man earns about three 
dollars a week, but his house costs him fifty cents, and 
he has generally a numerous family. Yet Sligo is the 
port of supply and of export for much of a province. 
A handsome court-house and a showy town hall 
adorn the place. 

" The Roman Catholics are ten to one Protest- 
ant, and a fine cathedral, Avhich is said to have cost 
£50,000, with a palace for the bishop on a correspond- 
ing scale, rather astonishes a visitor, for within fifty 
yards of them are rows of thatched cottages. On a 
similar plan are church edifices and ' presbyteries ' — as 
they call parsonages — being constructed all over the 
poorest parts of the land. A member of the denomi- 
nation criticised the plan severely in talking with me, 
in ig-norance of my views : ' 'Twould be a power bet- 
ther, sure, if they tried to raise the people.' 

" The surprising number of lame, deformed, and 
broken-down people around the streets. surprised me, 
and to a question on the subject put to an intelligent 
man the reply was given : ' Yes ; this is the sort that 
stays at home ; the strong ones go to Ameriky, and 
the money that supports many of these comes from 
them.' Describing, as he did clearly, the small farms, 
say, of three or four acres, and twice that number of 



MY JorRXEY TO JERUSALEM. 105 

children on them, the question was put, ' Would it 
make them comfortable if they owned the three or four 
acres and paid no rent ? ' ' ISTot a bit of it, sur ; what 
they want is trade, same as they have in Belfast or in 
Liverpool.' Why it does not come he could not tell. 
The most pushing traders in these western little towns 
are commonly Northmen or Scotchmen. SometJiing 
more is needed than mere law can do. The girl who 
got a love-letter done by a type-writer, and who an- 
swered that she could, not be ' courted by machinery,' 
is typical of communities. They cannot be lifted by 
mere acts of Parliament." 

Long might we linger among this warm-hearted 
and mirtli-loving people ! Her valleys of verdure, 
placid lakes, and lonely glens prove an unfailing 
source of delight. 

Farewell, lovely Ireland, farewell ! With your 
mountains of green, valleys of fertility, generous 
hearts, and hospitable homes I bid you long farewell. 
May peace and prosperity characterize your future and 
cause the " Emerald Isle '' to " blossom as the rose." 

Each country has charms peculiarly its own. Even 
though crushed by the iron heel of despotism, or if 
it be simply a sterile waste amid the awful solitudes 
of the North Pole or within the dismal desolation 
of Terra del Fuego, some are found who apply to it 
the magic and endearing appellation of hon)e. 



106 ^lY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Off for Paris. — A Dismal Night Journey. — The Gay 
Metropolis. — Fall of the Bastile. — The Exposition 
OF 1889. — A Continental Sunday. 

"It is my wish that my ashes may repose on the banks of 
the Seine, in the midst of the French people, whom I have 
loved so well." — Extract from Napoleoii's Will. 

^'AujotircT hid roi, dcmain rien''' (To-day a king, to-morrow 
nothing). 

OK my first visit to Paris, 1886, I departed from 
London by a niglit excursion train, which had 
been extensively advertised, to avail myself of the 
reduced rates. How I regretted the act a few hours 
later ! Deprived of the always pleasing view of the 
charming English landscapes, its profusion of hedge- 
rows and attractive villages on the journey, an unfail- 
ing source of delight to me on previous trips, addition- 
al trials awaited us. The night for the season was 
intensely cold on the steamer plying between Dover 
and Calais. Ko shelter was furnished from the strong 
wind which blew fore and aft with considerable vio- 
lence ; the seats were all occupied by passengers, 
while the water was rough. At half past one A. ]V[. 
we finally landed, and learned that the excursion train 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 107 

would not start for Paris, two Imudred and twenty- 
live miles distant, until five o'clock. So the re- 
mainder of tlie niglit was spent miserably enough 
in the dirty, dimly lighted, and sepulchral railway 
station. 

In the gray dawn of the morning, glad to emerge 
from the doleful den, I strolled through the quaint 
and sleeping city. The footfall of a drowsy police- 
man or the rumbling wheels of approacliing market- 
wagons alone broke the silence. The antique build- 
ings — monuments commemorative of tlie military 
struggle of 1558, when it was captured from the En- 
glish by Francis, Duke of Guise, after being imder 
British rule for a period of two hundred years — at- 
tracted attention, together with its strong and massive 
fortifications. 

Paris was reached at ten o'clock. The bustling 
and mercurial city of pleasure and fashion was in a 
state of unwonted excitement. A national fete day 
was approaching. The armies of France w^ere to 
contribute thirty-five thousand soldiers for the occa- 
sion. From all public buildings, shops, cafes, and 
thousands of private residences the national colors 
floated in great profusion. Preliminary indications of 
the coming event in the sporadic discharge of fire- 
arms and cannon-crackers in various portions of the 
gay city Mere manifest, I was privileged to witness 



108 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

the grand military review when the day finally came. 
Paris was wild with excitement. All street-cars, or 
" trams," as they are called in Europe, leading to the 
beautiful park, Long Champs, were crowded. An 
army of civilians came also on foot and in carriages. 
A vast sea of French were at last crowded together 
— soldiers and citizens. A flood of rain fell a few 
moments after the various columns were in motion. 
It was endured patiently for a season by the populace, 
but shelter was soon sought under the adjacent trees. 
The soldiers, of course, patiently submitted to the 
drenching. Water was fearlessly faced then, even if 
France quailed at Water-loo. Excellent marching by 
the mighty army with delightful music from the nu- 
merous bands were furnished. The latter were en- 
tirely too near each other, producing at times marked 
discoi^d. Soon the rain disappeared, and when night 
came Paris was in a blaze of splendor. Electric and 
colored lights flashed every-where. Many public 
buildings were brilliantly illuminated. The theaters 
and ball-rooms were thronged, while thousands of 
well-dressed pedestrians crowded the streets until a 
very late hour. 

While the review was in progress I thought of the 
Franco-Prussian War, with the complete and terrible 
overthrow of Napoleon III. and his plans, his death, 
and later the sad end of his only son by the hand of a 



J/r JO URNE Y TO J Eli USA LEM. 1 09 

barbarous warrior in a distant land. The various reg- 
iments were composed chiefly of young men, the ma- 
jority of them being small in stature. 

The tomb of Napoleon at the Hotel des Invalides 
was surrounded by a throng of tsight-seers on the day 
of my visit. Here the great Avarrior slumbers. The 
victor in fifty battles ; alas ! the man of blood. 

' ' He sleeps his last sleep, he has fought his last battle ; 
No sound can awake him to glory again." 

Several of his mighty generals repose near huu in 
the same structure. 

An extract from the will of Napoleon in French is 
inscribed over the doorway of the crypt. The foUoAv- 
ing is a translation : " It is my wish that my ashes may 
repose on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of the 
French people, w^hom I have loved so well." 

The hat and sword worn l\v Napoleon at Austerlitz 
are here on exhibition. At Des Invahdes other reHcs 
of the emperor are found in this military museum 
and home of aged and crippled soldiers. 

As customary with tourists, the Church of Notre 
Dame, the Tuileries, the Palais de L'Industrie, the 
July Column on the site of the infernal Bastile, the 
boulevards, and other points of interest in the great 
city were duly visited. Sails on the little steamers of 
the Seine, with wiiids through the prominent portions 



110 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



of the city, furnished needed rest from the severer 
labors of sight-seeing, though in another channel. 

According to a modern and competent writer, " The 
Bastile was at first a fortress and then a gloomy 
prison, and probably looked like one of the sugar 




LOCVRE IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 



refineries on the banks of the East Kiver, Brooklyn, 
IN", y. It was built in 1369, when Charles Y. was 
king, and was enlarged and improved by his suc- 
cessors. There is a tradition, probably untrue, that 
its builder, Hugues Aubriot, was the first prisoner 
to be confined in it. 



MY JOURNSY TO JERUSALEM. \\\ 

" The walls of the Bastile were thirty or forty feet 
thick at the base and twelve feet thick in the upper 
towers. It was surrounded by a dry ditch twenty-five 
feet deep, which was defended by a high wall. The 
building was impregnable to any artillery of the time 
of the French Revolution. 

" The prisoners were confined in the eight towers, 
and they looked on the outer world through twelve 
feet of masonry and a triple row of bars. If the pris- 
oner was sentenced to severer confinement he was 
put in a dungeon nineteen feet below the level of the 
court-yard and five feet below the level of the ditch. 
Here, to the man buried alive, a slender shaft of light 
came through a narrow loophole communicating with 
the ditch. 

" From being a fortress the Bastile gradually be- 
came a national prison for prisoners of state. The 
French peasants, tradesmen, and artisans were not con- 
fined there, but the prisoners were men of consequence, 
many of them being conspirators against the king. 
Among the famous prisoners who have been caged in 
the Bastile are ' The Man in the Iron Mask,' Yoltaire, 
Cardinal Rohan, De Latude, and Marshal Richelieu. 

"Important prisoners were often kept in solitary 
confinement, but most of tliein were allowed consid- 
erable freedom. They could take exercise in the 
court-yard and indulge in games. 



112 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

" The state provided well for their support, but thej 
were often miserably fed, owing to the stealing of 
their allowance by the prison officials. The great 
cruelty of the Bastile was that an innocent man might 
be sent there through the mahce and power of a pri- 
vate enemy, and live and die there, forgotten by the 
world. 

•' In the time of Louis XVI. the Bastile had degen- 
erated into a common jail. When it was surrendered 
to the storming revolutionists of Paris, more than one 
hundi*ed years ago, there were only seven prisoners 
in it. Yet one, the Count de Solage, had been a 
prisoner since his eleventh year, arid another, Taver- 
nier, had been thirty 3^ears in the Bastile, and was 
dazed by his release. 

" More than ten thousand Frenchmen captured the 
Bastile from its little garrison, and then they cut oft" 
the governor's head and carried it on a pike. The 
Bastile was torn down, and on its site stands the 
bronze Colunm of July." 

Fragments of French derived from my early studies 
and four visits to Canada were, I soon discovered, of 
little value to me. The accent of Parisian French is 
peculiar. Much depends on the expression of the 
countenance and the inevitable shrug of the shoulder 
also, so characteristic of the natives. 

Sunday in Paris is violated in a manner that is pos- 



J/r JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 113 

itively shocking to a New Englander, if not to the 
average American. No one can fully comprehend 
the meaning of the term " Continental Sunday " until 
he has visited Paris and Brussels at least. 

The sidewalks in front of the principal cafes are 
crowded with little iron tables to the curb-stone, 
where men, women, and children sip wine, drink beer, 
and eat. In some instances two or three rows of 
tables are placed in the roadway among the vehicles 
when those on the sidewalks are occupied. Military 
processions with bands of music are common. Hand- 
organs are heard ever and anon, while the inevitable 
monkey solicits centimes from the public for the ben- 
efit of his lynx-eyed master. Theaters are open, 
small shows with wheels of fortune and other games 
of chance line the sidewalk, while peddlers and dis- 
tributors of circulars are common, and with shops gen- 
erally open, constitute portions of the sad picture. 

Our second trip to the city of fashion and spectac- 
ular display was also by night. Though the waters 
of the English Channel for once were sufficiently 
<|uiet, yet the steamer was over-crowded. On double 
rows of bunks placed around the dining-table in the 
cabin passengers lay side by side. Strangers were 
the companions of the fortunate ones finding beds ; 
the feet of one row nearing the heads of those in the 
next. Hundreds found no resting-place at all, like 



114 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

Koali's dove in its i^reliiiiinaiy fliglit. Tliej walked 
the deck, counted the stars, watched wistfully for the 
faintest suggestion of the French coast at Dieppe, or 
drank and ate at the cabin table, and paid roundly for 
their temerity. Obviously, those having berths could 
find no sleep amid the rattle of dishes, murmur of 
many voices, and the lights that flashed in their faces. 
There Avas no moon and absolutely no light on the 
upper deck, and but one or two dim lamps on the 
main deck. At three o'clock in the morning all were 
obliged to grope their Avay through the darkness 
down the narrow gang-]3lank to the pier, giving up 
their tickets at the same time. As each one carried 
some articles of luggage, or possibly an infant, crying 
because aroused at that early hour, it was a slow and 
difficult process. Should the owners of that particu- 
lar line of steamers enter a caveat for letters-patent on 
the art of how not to oblige the public, their claim 
would be speedily recognized by their afflicted and 
patient patrons. 

Our guide-book briefly describes the great city as 
f olloM'^s : 

"Paris, containing two and a quarter millions of 
inhabitants, is the most cosmopolitan city in the 
world. Out of one hundred residents, only thirty are 
born in the city, and of the remainder (who are prin- 
cipally Belgians and Germans) the English and 



MY JOURKEY TO JERUSALt:.U. HS 

Americans number fifteen per cent. Paris covers a 
surface of twenty-eight and a half square miles, di- 
vided into twenty wards, with a mayor to each. But 
the authority and position usually given to mayors in 
America are vested in the Prefect of the Seine, who 
represents the government. Architecturally, Paris is 
a most attractive city, beautified by several large 
parks and forty squares, charmingly arranged and or- 
namented. Fashion in dress is dictated from Paris, 
which is also one of the most important of the world's 
industrial centers, having four Jiundred and fifty 
thousand skilled workpeople, and more than one hun- 
dred thousand manufacturers." 

Of course, the absorbing theme at Paris was the 
Exposition. Tickets are hawked around the streets 
by boys, men, and women like so many matches or 
peanuts. Twenty times M'ithin a block they are 
thrust in your face ; not unf requently crowds of ven- 
ders, chattering like so many Brazilian monkeys, sur- 
round you at once, in their frantic and bewildering 
zeal to secure customers. 

Vast and grand as the Exposition undeniably is, it 
does not im])ress one as favorably as our own at Phil- 
adelphia in 18TG. Much regret especially is ex- 
pressed that the exhibit from the United States is not 
more extensive. Aside from the credit of the nation 
which is at stake, it mav serve to deter manv Euro- 



116 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

peans from attending our mammoth show, now finally 
booked for Chicago in 1893. The Edison electric 
display was noticeably grand, and the goods of Mer- 
iden manufacturers attracted deserved and general 
attention. 

Mr. William E. Grladstone and wife visited the 
grounds while we were in Paris, and a large crowd 
soon gathered around them. The " old man eloquent " 
is still vigorous, considering the fact that he is an oc- 
togenarian. Much difficulty was experienced by the 
police in dispersing the throng of visitors gathered 
around them. Many purchases were made by both 
Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone. 

Representations of life in Egypt and Greenland by 
fac-simile street scenes were highly interesting. The 
Eiffel Tower, costing nearly one million of dollars, is, 
of course, the chief center of attraction. From morn- 
ing until late at night the elevator is run at its utmost 
capacity. Hundreds are constantly awaiting their 
turn. From three to four hours are consumed in 
getting people to the top of the structure. Since the 
cost for the service is five francs, m* about one dollar, 
there must be "millions in it." If Chicago has a 
tower in 1893 some live and 'cute Yankee will be 
found v^^ho can build an elevator capable of taking 
two or three hundred up at once if needful. 

Another defect of the Exposition is that all diree- 



MY JOUnyEY TO JEJiirSALjEM. 117 

tions to the public in the matter of signs and printed 
notices are in Frencli. As it is a "World's Exposi- 
tion," why not have translations every-where in the 
vernacular of all? Hotels, street-car?, public car- 
riages, mercliants, and public buildings should be re- 
quired to translate all notices and price-lists into the 
leading modern languages at least. Much of the sig- 
nificance of Pentecost would have been lost if the 
people had not been able to •' hear every one in his 
own tongue.'"' 

Americans are here in swarms, though hundreds 
have already returned. You meet them in the streets, 
trams, cafes, and hotels so frequently as scarcely to 
realize that you are thirty-two hundred miles from 
your native land. 

At night the gi-eat tower, with its calcium light, fire 
balloons, and many hued illuminations, is grand and 
impressive, particularly on a star-lit evening, when 
the symmetrical form and beautiful outlines of the 
superstructure can be barely traced on the sky and 
horizon. Undoubtedly it will be permanently retained 
in the interest of science as a signal service or mili- 
tary point of observation. 

The Paris Seweks.— After one of the congresses 
recently held in Paris, a large party interested in 
hygiene, led by M. Bechmann, Engineer-in-Chief of 
Paris, visited the large sewers that run from the Place 



118 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

de la Madeleine to the Chatelet. In barges and in a 
sort of tramway they traveled through underground 
Paris. The sewers were ilkiminated by many lamps, 
and also by electricit3^ From a report of the inves- 
tigation we make a brief extract : 

" Tlie barges were supplied with cushioned seats, 
the ladies came in elegant toilets, and, so that they 
should not soil their dresses, the steps do^^'n into the 
sewers were carpeted. As an engineering feat these 
palatial sewers, as they have been so justly described, 
are certainly most remarkable, and well worth a 
visit. From the Chatelet the membei's of the con- 
gress were conveyed in comfortable brakes to the 
sewage farm of Gennevillier. At Clichy the}' 
stopped to see the pumping-machines, which lift 
a third of the sewage and send it over the river in 
an iron pipe to Gennevillier, where it is used to 
irrigate seven hundred and fifty hectares of market 
gardens. The remainder will, in course of time, be 
sent to Archeres and to Mery. In the meantime, 
two thirds of the sewage of Paris still falls into the 
Seine at Asnieres, and the members of the congress 
were able to witness how it fouls the watei-s of the 
river. They then went over the sewage farm, ad- 
mired the vegetables, ate some of the fruit, and 
drank the beautiful, clear water derived from the 
sewage of Paris. It contained, they were assured, a 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. \\^ 

smaller number of microbes than the best spring water 
supplied to the city of Paris." 

Paris has twenty-seven thousand public carriages, 
of which twenty-five thousand are under the control 
of a monopoly. Rapidly driven, you escape from 
them with difficulty, as they swarm from all points of 
the compass like the locusts of ancient Egypt. For 
one franc, about twenty cents, you can be carried a 
mile or more. The masses take the trams or 'buses, 
which are crowded to overflowing. When all the 
seats are occupied the sign " Complet," or full, is dis- 
played, when no more can be received. How differ- 
ent is our American custom, where street-cars are 
packed as full as a sausage. 

The tomb of N^apoleon on the banks of the Seine, 
the Bastile Column, Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre, 
steam-boat sails on the Seine at a cost of two cents, 
with four-in-hand drives to various points in the city, 
constituted some of the sight-seeing of our party dur- 
ing our later visit. Versailles was also seen. It is 
described as follows by an American author : 

" Previous to the reign of Louis XIY. Versailles 
M'as used as a hunting station. About the middle of 
the seventeenth century that monarch became tired 
of St. Germains, then the residence of the court, and 
determined to build a palace that should command the 
admiration of Europe. The works were commenced 



120 Mr JO URNE Y TO JER USA LEM. 

in 1660. The architect Levan was the designer. 
Le Notre was employed to lay out the gardens and 
grounds, and Le Brun to paint the apartments. In 
order to obtain sufficient room the whole of the sur- 
rounding country to an extent of sixty miles in cir- 
cumference was purchased, hills were leveled or ele- 
vated, and valleys excavated or filled up ; to perfect 
the landscape water was brought from an immense 
distance to supply the reservoirs and fountains. The 
actual expense of the whole of this stupendous under- 
taking was over $200,000,000 ! The whole court re- 
moved here in 1681, and it was the residence of the 
different monarchs up to 1789. There is no doubt 
tliat the enormous amount first expended and that 
required to keep up such a court impoverished the 
country, and was the principal cause of tlie first revo- 
lution in 1789. Before tliat time the poiDulation of 
Yersailles was over one hundred thousand ; now it 
scarcely numbers thirty thousand. Tlie number of 
persons, however, who visit tlie town on Sundays 
and fete days, M'hen the magnificent fountains play, 
is very large." 

The drive to St. Cloud and Yersailles was a never- 
to-be-forgotten occasion. At the first-named point the 
ruins of the magnificent palace still remain unrestored. 
Destroyed by the French guns at Fort Yalerian to 
drive out the Germans, who had gained possession in 



J/}' J.OUKXEY TO JERUHALHit. 



121 



the memorable and disastrous struggle of 1870, as, 
from this point their lire could destroy any public 
building in Paris, seven miles distant, it stands as a 
sad monument of those dark days. 

A gambler offered to rebuild it at his own expense, 
provided he could have the use of it for a short term 
of years, which was declined. Various other plans 
for its restoration have been proposed, meeting a 
similar fate. At some distant day the building will 
rise, if possible, in grander proportions than before, 
for the French excel in the art of spectacular display. 




THE TUILERIES, PARIS. 



122 MY JOURNEY TO JJERUSALEAt 



CHAPTER VII. 

Brussels, the Gay Capital of Belgium. —A Visit to the 
Battle-field of Waterloo. — Germany and the Ro- 
mantic Rhine. — Holland, its People, Dikes, and Wind- 
mills. 

' ' I looked on the field where the battle was spread. 
When thousands stood forth in their glancing array ; 

And the beam from the steel of the valiant was shed, 

Through the dim rolling cloud that o'er-shadowed the fray. 

I looked on the field of contention again. 

When the saber was sheathed and the tempest had passed; 
The wild weed and thistle grew rank on the plain, 

And the fern softly sighed in the low wailing blast." 

— Lord Byron. 

THE harvests throughout Europe in 1886, as a 
rule, were good. Indian-corn is cultivated on 
a limited scale, if at all. Eroni the car windows, as I 
rode thousands of miles, wheat, oats, barle}^, and other 
crops were maturing or being reaped in enormous 
quantities, but not a hill of corn was visible during 
two months of travel. The damp, rainy, or cloudy 
weather which prevails much of the time in Great 
Britain, which the United States has since experienced 
so largely, with the cheapness of American corn, 
which literallv floods the markets, were assigned as 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 123 

reasons for its neglect, by gentlemen of intelligence 
with whom I conversed. Very little waste land exists. 
Swamps are drained and converted into fruitful fields. 
The hill-tops, denuded of primitive forests, are suc- 
cessfully cultivated even to their very summits. 
Women toil in the fields by the side of men in great 
numbers, or with bare feet in some localities, and 
in wooden shoes or "clogs" elsewhere, convey heavy 
burdens on their heads to market. 

The Sabbath in Brussels presented all the obnox- 
ious features exhibited in Paris, combined with an 
annual fair which was then in progress. Dense masses 
of human beings surged through the streets during 
the daj' and evening — twenty thousand would not be 
an extravagant estimate. King Leopold II. is de- 
servedly popular with the people. Following in the 
footsteps of his father, Leopold I., his administration 
is generally characterized by tact and good judgment. 
Like many monarchs, he has several palaces, that at 
Brussels being the j^rincipal one. While the language 
of Belgium is largely French, it differs essentially from 
that spoken in Paris, as the unhappy and bewildered 
tourist soon discovers. It is the fashionable language, 
though Flemish and Walloon are also spoken, with 
here and there a sprinkling of English. 

At the famous lace manufactory of Brussels I wit- 
nessed the intricate and delicate process of lace manu- 



124 J/r JOURNEY TO JERUSA LEM. 

facture. Every description of lace produced was ex- 
hibited wliicli would have gladdened the heart of the 
ladies of America, but I was not an expert. Beauti- 
ful and expensive the specimens certainly were. One 
small collar was offered for sale at $7 50. A sample 
two inches square could be bought for $1. The 
bridal veil of the Queen of Belgium was manu- 
factured here, I was informed, on which four hun- 
dred persons were employed continuously for a period 
of six months. 

The military museuui at Brussels was of interest. 
"Well preserved tapestry made in 1513 was shown. 
The horse ridden by the Prince of Orange at Quatro 
Bras and Waterloo in 1815, stuffed, Mas also among 
the curiosities. 

The vast cathedral of Brussels, begun in 1010, is 
still unfinished. It is an object of much interest, 
however, and has many choice paintings and pieces 
of statuary by several of the old masters. Its bell 
weighs fourteen thousand five hundred pounds, and 
is musical as well as sonorous. 

In Belgium and France the mode of dispatching 
I'ailway trains is novel and often amusing. When the 
hour arrives a man at the station lustily rings a good 
sized dinner bell ; the switchman follows and gives a 
loud blast from a horn, which he carries with him 
constantly, to show that the switches are all right ; 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 125 

the guard blows a pocket wliistle, which is answered 
by a vicious and slirill snort of the engine whistle, and 
the train departs. 

As the cars in Europe are generally divided into 
five compartments, with as many doors opening from 
the sides, the mode of collecting tickets is also peculiar. 
On some railways the tickets are taken at the gate as 
one leaves the station, passengers riding fifty miles or 
more without showing their tickets. Elsewhere the 
train stops at the last station but one while the tickets 
are taken at the car doors. In France the collector 
walks on the narrow step on the outside of the cars, 
with the train at full speed, grasping a hand-rail or 
the open window in tlie door, and performs the work. 
As all doors open outwardly, he must be sure that 
they are well fastened, or fatal results will follow. 
The utter absence from European cars of the toilet- 
room, so common on all American trains, is notice- 
able — a species of barbarism in fact. After riding 
one or two hundred miles the traveler may enter such 
rooms at the stations, where men or women in uni- 
form exact from two to four cents for the privilege. 
Cold water is never found on the trains, except the 
supply carried for the engine. The sufferings of 
the miserable tourist who has forgotten to bring a 
private bottle with him, especially in the intense lieat 
of summer, will be fully appreciated. At the railway 



126 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

stations it would need Diogenes with liis lantern to 
discover drinking-water about the premises after a 
most vigilant search. Two cents a glass is asked for 
it at the refreshment room, without ice. 

At the battle-field of Waterloo sight-seers still gather 
from various and distant parts of the earth. I found 
the field covered with waving grain — some having 
fallen before the reaper's hand — as thousands perished 
miserably by shot, shell, and bayonet thrust on that 
significant and eventful day, June 18, 1815. 

Disdaining to ascend the vast conical mound, two 
hundred feet high, by the long flight of stairs, for per- 
sonal amusement merely I climbed up the green 
grassy slopes on the opposite side and interviewed the 
Belgian lion that surmounts the elevation. The view 
was one of surpassing beauty. Garrulous guides 
point out the positions occupied as head-quarters by 
Wellington and Napoleon, the line of battle of each 
army, the road over which Bliicher came, where Na- 
poleon's Old Guard lay concealed in the corn-field dur- 
ing the day, and where prominent ofiicers met their 
fearful fate. 

Under the mighty mound the dead of both armies 
were buried. Earth sufficient to complete this mount- 
ain in miniature was conveyed from remote portions 
of the country by peasant women, as the locality is 
merely a slightly undulating plain. 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 127 

A horde of hiiiigiy peddlers and guides infest the 
spot. Maps, photograplis, bouquets, canes, refresh- 
ments, and souvenirs are freely and persistently of- 
fered. To decline politely to purchase involves a re- 
newal of the importunity. My steps were dogged for 
an hour or more from the moment the train arrived. 
At last, dripping with pers]Hration and driven to 
despair, I scattered the crowd with a hei'oic dose of 
plain English. The storm of opprobrious epithets 
which were hurled at my head might not have proved 
sufficient to disperse the combined armies of Welling- 
ton and Kapoleon, but were quite emphatic. 

While endeavoring to decipher the inscription on 
a monument erected in memory of the dead of 
an English regiment, I stepped on a small round 
stone and turned my ankle. To save myself from 
falling I sprang quickly forward on what seemed 
turf. It was a fallen tombstone overgrown with 
grass. As it inclined considerably, I slid the whole 
length of it, and fell into a ditch with my ankle bad- 
ly wrenched. Though groaning with pain, my com- 
ical condition caused me to smile. I was the only 
wounded man on the battle-field of AVaterloo, not 
" dying in the last ditch," but suifering in the first 
one. 

The village of Waterloo is a straggling, insignifi- 
cant place. It has gradually grown toward the bat- 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 129 

tie-field, but entirely on one street. Houses, "barns, 
stables, and hog-pens are generally joined together, 
while an intolerable odor is widely disseminated. 

"From the top of the mound," says Mr. "W. Pem- 
broke Fetridge, " is the best position for surveying 
the field. It marks the spot where the Prince of 
Orange was wounded and the very center of the con- 
flict, although on both sides of it, at the farm of la 
Haye Sainte and the chateau of Hougoumont, some 
of the most bloody combats took place. 

" There exists a great diversity of opinion in regard 
to the merits of this memorable event, the number of 
men engaged, and whether the English had or had not 
gained the day before the arrival of the Prussians. 
The best English and German authorities say that 
NajDoleon's force was Y5,000 men, while the Duke of 
Wellington's was but 64,000, and only 32,000 of these 
were of the British or German legion ; and the Prus- 
sian General Miifiling says 'the battle could have 
afforded no favorable result to the enemy, even if the 
Prussians had never come up.' The Prussians cer- 
tainly did not do much execution until after seven 
o'clock, it being nearly five o'clock before the first 
regiment arrived. One of our own writers on the 
subject says : ' In regard to the battle of "Waterloo, 
were we to believe the British accounts, the victory 
would have remained with them, even though no 



130 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

Prussians liad arrived on tlie field, while the Prussian 
and French statements unequivocally demonstrate to 
the contrary. The British maintained their position 
with the most obstinate conrage ; no one doubts that ; 
but, in the language of Gneisenau's official bulletin, 
'' Napoleon continually advanced in masses ; and w^ith 
whatever firmness the English troops maintained 
themselves in their position, it was not possible but 
that such heroic exertions must have a limit." And 
even after the arrival of the fourtli Prussian corps 
under Biilow it is more than probable that the field 
of battle would have remained in possession of the 
French. As the result was, it would be difficult to 
account for the glory which the British and Prus- 
sians have taken to themselves for effecting with 
140,000 men and 380 pieces of cannon the rout of a 
French army with 70,000 men and 240 guns, did we 
not know that the latter was commanded by the 
French emperor, " who, out of thirteen of the greatest 
pitched battles recorded in history, had lost but one 
before the battle of Waterloo. '' 

" I^ear the building of the farm of la liaye Sainte, 
which M^as riddled with shot, is the spot where the 
brave English Life-guardsman was buried, after hav- 
ine: killed nine Frenchmen with his own band. Near 
the mound, on either side of the road, are two monu- 
ments erected, one to the Hanoverian officers of the 



MY JOURNEY TO JEUVSALEM. i3l 

German legion, tlie other in ineniory of Colonel Gor- 
don, erected by liis family." 

The old tavern occupied dnring the memorable and 
murderous engagement still stands, which, with a mu- 
seum of reputed curiosities from the battle-field, at- 
tracts many visitors. But little reliance can be placed 
upon the articles exhibited, or those for sale, since a 
regular business of manufacturing souvenirs in En- 
gland and elsewhere has been conducted for many 
years. 

After a brief visit to the memorial church erected 
in memory of the officers and private soldiers of Great 
Britain who fell in the memorable contest, I returned 
by railway to Brussels, twelve miles distant. Had I 
known that a daily stage ran between the principal 
hotels of the city and Waterloo for a nominal sum- 
about $1 — with an English-speaking guide, I should 
certainly have taken it, and thus avoided about three 
or four miles' walk at Waterloo, no carriage being 
obtainable at that place. 

In the summer of 1890, four years after my return 
to America, a chaste and appropriate monument was 
erected by Great Britain on the battle-iield of Water- 
loo, to commemorate the services of the British dead. 
It is described as follows by an English periodical, 
and will henceforth constitute an additional attraction 
to the tourist : 



132 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

"After a lapse of seventy-five years the remains of 
the British ofiicers and men who fell on the field of 
Waterloo liave been reinterred in the cemeter}'^ of 
Evere, under a monnment unveiled by the Duke of 
Cambridge before a vast assemblage. The ceremony 
was of an impressive character, although somewhat 
marred by the rain. The monument, w^hich is the 
work of Comte de Lalaing, a Belgian sculptor, who 
refused to accept any remuneration, represents on a 
pedestal a kneeling figure of Britannia, with her head 
bent down as if mourning for her children, and still 
watching over them in their death sleep. With her 
trident she points to the sarcophagus where lie her 
beloved sons ; at her feet is the inscription, ' Mortu- 
orum Patria Memor,' on her left is the shield of the 
mother-country, and a lion standing in a watchful at- 
titude beside the flowing drapery falling from the 
figure. Two other lions, one couchant, one half 
roused, guard the coffin, and around helmets, shaJ<:oes, 
tunics, and accouterments are scattered. 

" At the back of the statue, over the entrance to the 
vault, is a black marble slab, on which are inscribed 
in letters of gold these words : ' In memory of the 
British ofiicers, non-commissioned officers, and men 
who fell during the Waterloo campaign of 1815, and 
whose remains were transferred to this cemetery in 
1889, this monument is erected by Her Britannic 



MY JOUJiNlilY TO JEltU^ALEM. 133 

Majesty Queen Victoria, Empress of India, and by 
their countrymen, on a site generously presented by 
tlie city of Brussels.' On the side of the door-way to 
the mausoleum hang three massive bronze shields or 
targets. They bear the glorious titles of the regiments 
"which fought at Waterloo — guards, dragoons, hus- 
sars, artillery, Highlanders, fusiliers, cavalry, and in- 
fantry — fitting tokens to be jjlaced upon this hallowed 
sanctuary. The vault has a narrow passage up the 
middle. On the right and left are the names of undy- 
ing fame, though their record is but a roll-call of the 
dead." 

My itinerary in 1886 included a brief visit to Ant- 
werp and a pleasant steamer excursion on the river 
Scheldt. Large ocean steamers were at anchor in the 
harbor. The port is one of commanding importance, 
since it is the connnercial metropolis of Belgium, 
The city possesses an antique appearance, but presents 
few points of interest. At the huge and venerable 
cathedral among other paintings of great merit are 
those of Rubens, Yandyck, and others. The cathe- 
dral is 500 feet long and 250 feet wide. Authorities 
differ concerning the height of the steeple, the esti- 
mates varying from 336 to 466 feet. An extensive 
and picturesque vieM- is afforded from the summit at 
a cost of one franc for each person. 

Gormauv and Holland were also visited during 



134 MY JOURNEY TO JERUiiALEM. 

the same summer. On arriving in Germany tlie 
Rhine, with its numerous vineyards, deserted castles, 
and countless legends, received my first attention. 
Daylight was dying as I reached Cologne after an all- 
day journey by rail from Antwerp. After securing 
quarters at a hotel I sallied forth to take my first 
view of the Rhine. Tourists usually confine their 
observations to the region situated between Cologne 
and Mayence ; the first usually spelled by the Germans 
" Koln," and the latter " Mainz." From the strong 
and elegant bridge over the famous river at Cologne 
the sight was grand. Tlie stream at this point is 
broad, while the lights on either shore and the gleam- 
ing stars that came out of the deepening twilight one 
by one lent additional charms to tlie scene. 

My stay in the city was brief. I was anxious to 
witness the greater attractions of the far-famed river 
further on from the deck of a Rhine steam-boat. 
The great cathedral, with its beautiful windows 
and other works of art, is still incomplete, though 
labor on it began in 1248. Successive monarchs 
have aided the work, but much still remains to be 
done. 

Women manage the fruit and flower traffic of this 
city almost exclusively. At five different points I 
saw groups of women, no fewer tlian five hundred in 
all I judged, with white coverings on their heads and 



MY JOUJiXJiY TO JJi:RL'SALEM. 135 

l)lne-c]iccked dresses, seated on the ground in the open 
air conducting the business. 

Cologne derives its name from a Roman colony 
planted here by Agrippina, daughter of the Emj^eror 
Germanicus. The streets are nai-row and crooked, 
but cleaner bj far than I anticipated. True, the 
odor of eau de Cologne, still manufactured here in 
large quantities, was not perceptible ; but tlie prodig- 
ious statements of M-riters from time immemorial 
regardins: its festerins: tilth, if ever true, are not so 
to-daj. 

Brief pauses of a day or two each were also made 
on the river at Coblentz and Mayence. Bridges of 
l)oats — pontoons — cross the river at the first-named 
city. X fountain constructed bv Xapijleon I. while 
marching to Hussia at the opening of that disastrous 
campaign, with a motto stating by whom it was built, 
still exists. When the Frencli army was a fugitive 
mob eagerly returning to Paris the Russians added 
some sarcastic lines to the structure. I need not quote 
them. 

The cultivation of the vine is the dominant indus- 
try in the Rhine region. Up to the mountain peaks 
every available inch of ground appeared to be under 
cultivation. Many of the clnjice brands of wine so 
freely advertised in the United States, purporting to 
come from the Rhine valley, are simply drugs. A 



136 MY JOlTiiNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

competent authority, who is engaged in the mercan- 
tile business in that section, assured me that certain 
wines are never sold at all out of the country. They 
are consumed exclusively in the families of resident 
rulers, or other persons of distinction. 

Opposite Coblentz a mighty fortress, the Gibraltar 
of the Rhine, is situated. It can accommodate one 
hundred thousand men. It cost $5,000,000. At 
this writing it is seriously proposed in German 
military circles to dismantle the costly and formid- 
able structure, owing to some comj)lications in 
the present threatening attitude of other European 
nations. In the judgment of some militaiy men 
it ]nay prove a menace to Germany, rather than a de- 
fense, in case of foreign invasion. 

Bingen on the Rhine, the home of the dying sol- 
dier boy, over which we wept in youth, is an 
attractive spot. It was a larger j)lace than I an- 
ticipated, containing a population of about eight 
thousand. Situated at the mouth of the river ISTahe, 
it presented a fine appearance as the sun slowly sank 
behind the mountain which protects it on the west. 

The Castle of Ehrenfels, situated near Bingen, is 
famous for the tradition concerning Bishop Hatto, 
and the rats. 

It may assume the aspect of downright ignorance 
or bigotry, but as a whole the .Rhine is surpassed by 



M V JO URNEY TO JER US ALE M. 1 37 

tlio noble Hudson River. The latter lias loftier and 
grander mountains, a greater volnnie of watei-, and 
more picturesque views. Divest the Rhine of its 
castles, legends, and antiquity, and no sane man 
would venture to institute a comparison. 

Among other portions of Germany visited were 
Frankfort-on-the-Main, Cassel, Miinster, Hamburg, 
and Bremen. The narrow and huddled harbor of 
Hamburg was a surprise to me. Its vast volume 
of shipping business is conducted in the closest pos- 
sible quarters. Rotterdam excels it by far, not only 
as regards its spacious harbor, but in the general at- 
tractions of the city. However, extensive efforts were 
then in progress to increase its capacity, and many an- 
tique and costly M'arehouses Avere being removed for 
the purpose. The ilehris made in that portion of the 
city rendered all traveling, especially pedestrian trips, 
a disagreeable and dangerous experiment. 

My arrival at Amsterdam was unfortunately timed. 
A riot over some political matter was in progress. 
Tlie military had possession of the city. In blissful 
ignorance of all this, I traveled till nearly midnight 
through the streets in pursuit of a '" gasthaus," or 
hotel. They were distant from the depot, and the 
Dutch directions Avere quite confusing, to say the 
least. It was past midnight when I retired. 

The net-work of ti-oe-frino-ed canals, for which Hoi- 



138 ^^y JOUI^NEY TO JERUSALEM. 

land is famous; the public and private buildings, con- 
structed generally of very small brick — the sidewalks 
often of the same material; the snowy marble stoops, 
which the women scrubbed ^dth evident delight, were 
alike novel and interesting. Cathedrals — " doms " — 
and parks were examined, and excursions to various 
points made on the adjacent waters. 

Many of tlie public sign-boards seemed like a 
mixtui'e of Low Dutch and bad English. Possibly 
"Josh BilHngs," traveling through the country, took 
the hint and amassed a fortune thereby. We have 
space but for a few specimens only : " "Watch plaats 
der stoombooten," waiting place for the steam-boat ; 
" zeil makerij,'' sail-makery ; " blok en pomj) maker," 
block and pump maker ; '• brood en beschuit bak- 
kerij," bread and ))iscuit l)akery ; " melk, boter, kaas," 
milk, batter, cheese ; " to huur," to hire — house to 
let ; " koff}^ en tree," coffee and tea ; and " lodge- 
ment — koffy haus," for lodgings and coffee-house. 
Ship-building, chiefly of iron vessels, is an important 
indnsti-y on the river Maas, thougli confined neces- 
sarily to craft of light tormnge. Holland has an 
unceasing contest with old ocean to save itself from 
iimndation, from which it was redeemed. Immense 
sums are expended annually on the dikes. In some 
localities the houses are situated from thirty to forty 
feet below the level of the sea. Gateways are so 



MY JOURNEY TO JEliUSALEM. 



139 



constructed that, in ease of inxasiou by a formidable 
foreign foe, one human hand could bury the chief 
2)ortions of Holland nndcr the waters of the North 
Sea. Drought is of rare occurrence. The proximity 
of the ocean and the extensive canal system of the 
country give extraordinary humidity to the atmos- 
phere. 

Vast areas of \yater-lots are constantly being banked 
in by narrow dikes, or levees. Powerfid steam-puin])s 
are then put in motion, which soon remove the water, 
and after being tilled in the ground becomes farms 
or valuable city lots. 




RHINK SCKNKUV. 



140 J/i' JOUliNEY TO JERUSALEM 



CHAPTER VIII. 

On to Switzeklakd. — Musing on the Mighty Alps. — Love- 
ly LucEKNE. — Florence. — Milan with heu Majestic and 
Costly Cathedhal. — ^The Eteknai, City. — Roman Ruins 
AND Modern Aspects. — A Visit to the Vatican. 

FROM tlie motley maelstrom of Immaii beings, 
native and foreign, huddled together at Paris 
during the Exposition, we start for Lucerne, Switzer- 
land. 

Land of William Tell, Winkelried, John Calvin, 
John Fletcher, Michael Servetus, Rousseau, Madame 
de Stael, Huber, Keeker, and Dumont, all hail ! Wel- 
come, ye mighty Alps, with your snow-clad mountains, 
gushing cascades, and rushing rivers ! Land of liberty 
and deathless patriotism, of grand and rugged scenery, 
musical boxes, watches, and peaceful homes ! 

The pale beams of the full moon shimmered on the 
placid lake, as we arrived at Lucerne at a late hour on 
Saturday night. Our ride fj-om Paris during the day 
had covered three hundred and twenty-five miles. 
The mountain scenery proved a great delight as 
we approached the border-line between Prance and 
Switzerland. A brief stop was made by our party at 
Basle en route. 



J/r JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. \!^\ 

After a substantial meal at the Hotel Lucernerliof 
we found rest, Sunday opened with splendor. Mount 
Riglii with difficulty reared its sublime form above the 
belt of morning misc that environed it ; while the 
rising sun made the beautiful lake, with its romantic 
shores, numerous boats, and a profusion of fluttering 
flags, appear like a vast panorama before us. 

A popular watering-place, Lucerne abounds with 
hotels, but has few attractions beyond those furnished 
by nature. The chiming of church bells was sooth- 
ing, and the mighty organ at the cathedral a source 
of inspiration. Time could not be spared for the 
ascent of Righi or sails on lovely Lake Lucerne, with- 
out violating our views and vows regarding the Sab- 
bath. This beautiful sheet of water is full twenty-five 
miles in length. Clouds around the sunmiit of Mount 
Kighi often shut out the glorious view even after the 
ascent has been made by wearisome toil. 

The merchants depend largely on the patronage of 
tourists. Carved wood in various forms, views of 
native scenery, rare stones, canes, clocks, and musical 
boxes are among the attractions oflered fclie traveler. 

The lion monument, by Thorwaldsen, in bass-relief, 
cut into native rock, is well worth a visit. It was? 
erected in 1821 to commemorate the valor of the 
brave Swiss Guards who lost their lives in the de- 
fense of the Tuileries, August 10, 1792. A dying 



142 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

lion pierced by an arrow is shown. In liis expiring 
moments he places his paw upon a sliield, a token of 
the deathless fidelity of the heroic Swiss who, fell in 
the famous light. 

Many visitors lind their way also to the glacier gar- 
den. Remarkable bowlders, conveyed to the spot from 
remote regions by the melting and moving ice of 
an early period, are displayed in an excellent state of 
preservation. Most of them are in the form of oval 
mill-stones resting in deep cavities of the rocks, pro- 
duced by the law of attrition, from the swirling 
bowlders amid the waters. Evidences exist that nearly 
all of Switzerland and much of the northern hemi- 
sphere were once covered by immense masses of ice 
during what is known to geologists as the glacial 
period. The region at the base of the Alps was then 
tlie bottom of the sea, as remains of marine shells 
and animals abundantly attest. 

The permanent population of Lucerne exceeds 
twenty thousand persons, which reaches greater pro- 
portions during the fashionable season, when large 
numbers of visitors are present. The dominant faith 
is Roman Catholic. Agriculture and stock-raising 
receive considerable attention. The scenery is of 
marvelous beauty. The various mountain peaks 
surrounding the city average about six thousand five 
hundred feet in height, while Lake Lucerne occupies 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 143 

an altitude of fourteen thousand feet above the level 
of the sea. 

The day dawned delightfully as our train sped 
swiftly away from Lucerne and its charming environ- 
ments, where we had sj3ent the Sabbath. On the 
margin of the dreamy lake our pathway lies. Small 
sail and rowboats are awaiting the patronage of the 
omnipresent tourist, while the handsome steamers give 
indications of life by faint circles of smoke which 
arise from their huge funnels, and the decks are 
being vigorously scrubbed preparatory to their daily 
trip over the placid waters. 

Mount Righi lifts its lofty brow above the sur- 
rounding scene, and, as if aware of its own sublime 
attractions, conceals its crest in a snow cloud. Soon 
tunnel after tunnel in the mighty Alps is entered — 
seventy of them during the day. What an expensive 
roadway ! How terribly steep the gradients are ! 
Two engines are required much of the distance to 
draw the heavily loaded cars. With slow but sure 
progress the feat is accomplished after an immense 
amount of puffing and snorting, winding around the 
mountains on a corkscrew track. 

And now w^e are in the very heart of the wonder- 
ful Alps, with their profusion of rugged mountain 
scenery. Each view, as we slowly glide along, gives 

grander exhibitions of nature's handiwork than be- 
10 




THE MATTEUHORX, 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 145 

fore, if that were possible. On every hand, in the 
wildest disordei-. 

" Look, look " — '' quick, quick," exclaim many 
voices simultaneously to their companions as the won- 
derful panorama jDasses before them. Now some 
snoAV-capped mountain taller by far than its sturdy 
neighbor catches the eye. A gushing cascade or a 
miniature cataract like a thread of molten silver falls 
from mountain peak to the valley below, while yawn- 
ing chasms, deep ravines, and desolate gorges enhance 
the sublimity of the picture. 

Scattered along the sides of the mountains, or on 
tlie edge of dizzy precipices, remote from the busy 
life of commercial centers, are scattered the humble 
cottages of the herdsmen and other toilers in these 
lonely retreats. It is home, and tliey are content 
with their plain fare and humble condition, though 
situated amid tliese rugged and primeval solitudes. 
Their love of iiome and liberty is proverbial. 

Arth-Goldau is passed, where sixty years ago an 
entire village was buried l)y a landslide. So great 
was the fall of earth and rock, constituting another 
mountain almost, tliat tlie village was left in its pre- 
mature sepulcher, while a new settlement grew around 
and over its site. Here, with the dead buried beneath 
their feet, many of the inhabitants live, either ignorant 
of or indifferent to the l\ite of their unhappy fathei's. 



146 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

Finally the Italian frontier is reached, and the in- 
evitable custom-house examination is renewed. As 
elsewhere, the cliief scrutiny is directed toward the 
discovery of concealed packages of cigars and brandy. 
As our party is composed largely of ministers, tem- 
l)erance laymen, and ladies, the search, as hitherto, 
proves fiuitless. l^o passports have thus far been 
required, and none probably will be prior to our en- 
tering the Turkish Empire. 

In Italy, as well as in France, it was harvest time. 
Women toiling in the hot and dusty fields far out- 
numbered the men. On every hand were indications 
of the severe drought, or customary dry season, that 
had prevailed throughout the region. While New 
England in connnon with many Eastern States con- 
tended with iioods, the reverse had been experienced 
here. The fields Avere ashen wastes, except where irri- 
gation had been resorted to. Brooks were dried up — 
usually raging torrents when the spring opens and the 
snow melts from the mountains. Even the Arno and 
the turbid Tiber had dwindled to the insignilicance of 
narrow meadow brooks, which in their reduced for- 
tunes seemed like the veritable sea-serpent finding its 
A\'ay back to the ocean. 

After leaving the Al})s Ave pass swiftly over far- 
reaching plains hundreds of miles in exient. Fertile 
farms, with a j)rofusion of fruit-trees, including the 



MY JOURNEY TO JJSRl/SALJi'M. 147 

fig, plum, apricot, pear, and other varieties, are visi- 
ble by the million. Much of the fruit finds its way 
to the United States dried and preserved. For the 
first time I ate figs, ripe and juicy, fresh from the 
tree. Pleasantly sweet, though inclined to insipidity, 
they proved to be. The preserved fig as usually sold 
in our own country will suit the average American 
better. 

Willow used in the manufacture of baskets is 
largely cultivated. The seed is scattered broadcast, 
like corn sown for fodder, which gives a harvest of 
twigs, growing to the dimensions of rye or wheat pro- 
duced in America. Corn, which does not ripen in En- 
gland, Scotland, and Ireland, does well in France and 
Italy. It is cut like hay and spread on the ground to 
dry. Later the ears are husked in the field and tied 
in bunches on the sides of barns and hay-stacks to 
harden in the sun. 

Milan, Florence, and other points in sunny Italy 
are visited. Cathedrals, fortifications, public parks, 
fashionable thoroughfares, where the rich live in lux- 
ury, and narrow, dirty lanes, with a superabundance 
of festering filth, and where the jjoor die in doleful 
garrets, are critically scrutinized. 

At Florence I became interested in a poor little 
hunch-back boy, who, dwarfed by his infirmit}'^, was 
making his way with diificulty on his crutch through 



148 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

tlie gaping crowd that surronnded our party. He, 
among many, was trying to sell guide-books, but 
could not well be seen owing to the crowd of other 
venders and sturdy beggars iu the way. Having pre- 
viously bought a book of another dealer, I gave him 
a small coin as a comproinise. With Chestertieldian 
politeness he touched his cap to me in acknowledg- 
ment, bowing profoundly, meanwhile balancing him- 
self on his crutch. Subsequently, at the cathedral, I 
sold my guide-book to a member of our party to have 
an excuse for buying another of the boy. He was 
evidently overjoyed at his good fortune, and tipped 
his hat to me gracefully, later, wlienever he caught 
my eye. 

Returning to the cathredral, I was chagrined to 
lind that my party had gone by the way of a side 
door instead of the main entrance, as I ex]3ected. 
After looking in all directions the search was aban- 
doned. My little crippled friend came hobbling up 
on his crutch and sought to point out tlie way they 
liad gone, as he could not speak a single word of En- 
glish. Thouffh I did not overtake them until we met 
at our hotel at night, I found that a trifling act of 
kindness on my part had evoked a grateful response 
from the heart of the unfortunate boy, despite his 
bent form and ragged raiment. 

Mass was in progress at the great cathedral, and we 



MY JOURXJiY TO JUJiCSALhWr. 149 

liad an opportunity to hear the grand oi'gun, Avith a 
chorus elioir of marked sweetness and compass, while 
the fragriiuce of burning incense filled the air. The 
structure, while surpassingly beautiful and imposing 
without, is comparatively devoid of adornment within. 

The great cathedral at Milan is too well known to 
require a description now. ]>oth the interior and ex- 
terior are jirofusely decorated, while its huge propor- 
tions give distinct impressions of awe and sublimity. 
From the summit a far-reaching view is afforded, 
M'hich many of our party enjoyed. The roof is 
absolutely M'onderful. There are ninety -eight turrets 
of the Gothic style of architecture. 

Here is a ghastly statue of St. Bartholomew, with 
his skin oft' and laid on his shoulder, by some whim 
of the sculptor. It seemed entirely out of place, and 
should be consigned to some anatomical museum. 
Its effect upon some hysterical persons might be 
productive of a severe mental shoclc. 

St. Ambrose is said to have l)een buried here. We 
entered his gloomy cell and sat in his stone chair. 
San Carlo Borromeo, whose ashes are contained in a 
case of solid silver so heavy that it must be opened 
by machinery worked liy hand, undoubtedly deserves 
all the respect for centuries attached to his memory. 
He was heroic and self-denying during the plague of 
1576. He spent a lai'ge private foi-tunc to reliore 



150 Mt JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

the sick and poor, and went about barefoot, carrying 
a crucifix, to assist and comfort suffering humanity. 

But Italy lias produced too many heroic characters 
for me to linger long at any particular spot — Chris- 
topher Columbus, Garibaldi, Michael Angelo, Cavour, 
and many more. Our party moves on, and we must 
accompany them. 

Rome at last ! The city is absolutely disenchant- 
ing. Like all European and Asiatic metropolitan 
centers, it is built of stone and stucco, presenting a 
somber and funereal aspect. N^arrow streets, except- 
ing two or three ; comparatively few parks or public 
promenades, excepting the Pincio region and a few 
more ; destitute of trees or shrubbery of any amount ; 
its dingy high fence walls, especially along the Ap- 
pian Way, with few sidewalks, furnish a justification 
for the statement. 

Rome has, however, history and antiquity. Here 
once flourished Julius Caesar, Nero, and a long line 
of Roman emperors when Rome ruled the world. 
Here Paul came to make his " appeal to Caesar." The 
chisel of the sculptor, the brush of the artist, the lines 
of the poet, and the faithful pen of the historian have 
in some faint degree at least furnished us with im- 
portant facts. 

We have before us both an old and modern Rome. 
Blocks of new buildings are going up in many quarters 



MY JOURXJiY To JERUSALEM. 



151 



of the city, of a sliowy hut shoddy character, how- 
ever, some of which fall before being occupied. 
Public improvements are also in progress. Kows of 
venerable buildings on the banks of the classic Tiber 
are being torn down to make room for a fashionable 




promenade along the margin of the river, sheltered 
by rows of trees like those bordering the Seine in 
Paris. 1^0 doubt it will be a fine improvement when 
completed, though the pedestrian now gropes his 
way through narrow streets amid showers of crum- 
bling plaster, stone, brick, and other cUlris. 



152 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALE.\t. 

Home need not here be described. Suffice it to 
say that its chief antiquities and objects of interest 
were seen, including the Vatican, the private chapel 
of the pope, the Sistine Chapel, Avith the wonderful 
and numerous galleries of sculpture, fresco, and 
painting with which the far-famed " Eternal City " 
abounds. We also saw the carriages of the pope, 
whicli are unexcelled in grandeur by those of any 
monarch on earth of ancient or modern times. 

The columns, arches, ancient walls, gates to the 
city, baths of Caracalla, the forums, coliseum, cata- 
combs, and other unspecified wonders of the spot were 
carefully if not critically examined. Carriage-drives 
along the Appian Way and througliout the principal 
portions of the city, with strolls at nightfall along 
the prominent streets of the metropolis, gave fa- 
vorable conditions for studying Eonic as it was and 
as it is. 

Our guide from London to Palestine and Egypt 
and back to London is Mr, Robert H. Crunden, a 
profound linguist and a most accomplished scliolar. 
He speaks fluently twelve languages. Alternately he 
is a shrugging Frenchman, a voluble and gesticulating 
Italian, or a stolid and emphatic German. His atti- 
tude in other lands was equally good. His knowl- 
edge of classical and biblical antiquities and localities 
is simply amazing. Though many scholarly men are 



J/r JOURXEY To JEIirSA LH.M. 153 

members of our j)arty, all by common consent regard 
him as an .inthoritv in these matters. 

St. Peter's Church, though often described, must 
be seen to be appreciated. Tt is bv far the largest 
and most beautiful church on earth. All that art 
and mind could do was done to make it the one 
monumental structure for worship on the face of the 
globe. The choicest of stones, the mightiest of 
columns, lofty ceilings, length and breadth of the 
edifice, statuary, pictures, and adornments of every 
kind exist. AVe say pictures to avoid confounding 
tiiem with paintings — nothing is done in oil. The 
largest and loveliest pictures are mosaics — eleven 
thousand stones of difterent hues l)eing used in one 
of them. On the ceiling, among many portraitsj is 
one of St. Mark, with pen in hand. From the mar- 
ble floor it seems like a pen of ordinary size, and yet 
it is six feet long. The vast building cost $00,000,000, 
and $500 a week are expended for repairs and clean- 
ing. Rome has three hundred and seventy churches, 
of which eighty-seven are under the supervision of 
the representatives of the pope. 

Our visit to the Catacombs assumed a weird and 
sepulchral aspect indeed. AVo were led by an aged 
Franciscan monk, who, clad in tlie humble attire of 
his order, lighted our pathway down the stone stair- 
way to the abode of the ancient dead, bearing a burn- 




CHUKC'U AT TUK CATACOMBS. 



MY JO URXEY TO JERUSALEM. 155 

ing taper in his hand. Each one of our party also 
carried a dim light of the same character. Tall and 
short men, young and old, with two ladies, tlie entire 
company clothed in various styles of dress, we doubt- 
less presented a peculiar if not grotesque appearance. 

The Italian sunrise and sunset surpass by far 
those of other lands. Poets and artists have from 
time immemorial sought to convey some idea of their 
loveliness. A personal view will alone enable the 
tourist to fully appreciate their delicate beauty. 

No bodies now remain in the Catacombs. The last 
one was removed many years ago, and the sacred and 
ancient dust piously buried elsewhere with appro- 
priate religious ceremonies. Many of the most valu- 
ble inscriptions carved in marble or other stones have 
been taken to nmseums and different places for safe- 
keeping and the instruction of the student in ar- 
chaeology. The corridors of the Catacombs are tlii-ee 
hundred miles in extent. 

Some of the designs afford much light on the views 
of the early Christians regarding the resurrection of 
the dead. Over the niche containing their remains 
have been found, rudely carved, the crowing cock, de- 
noting the approach of the morning of resurrection ; 
the fabled Pha?nix rising from its ashes ; the fish 
casting Jonah upon the land ; and many more sug- 
2:c«;tive of the same belief. Over the Pagan dead. 



156 MY JOURXEY TO JEPa" SALEM. 

however, the designs conveyed no sentiment of hope. 
A racer losing a race, a shattered ship lying upon the 
rocks, or a broken column, without a single hint of 
hope, appear in strange and vivid contrast. 

At the cemetery of the Capuchin fathers a house 
mied with human bones is thrown open to the visitor. 
They are the remains of monks of that order who 
have died during the past eighteen centuries ! The 
bones are fastened to the ceiHng and side walls in 
various quaint designs in some instances. Most of 
them are classified and placed in piles like so many 
articles of merchandise. Skulls by themselves, the 
bones of the hands and feet in proper order by them- 
selves, besides scapula, clavicle, femur, and other bones 
of the human bodv known to anatomv arrane-ed in 
appropriate heaps Avith tlie utmost care. Mummies 
of monks, dried, withered, with ghastly eye-sockets 
and grinning teeth, clad in the garments formerly 
worn by them in life, arc also found, crucifix in hand. 
On the ground floor near them are heaps of fine dust 
of which their l)odies were once composed. Alto- 
gether it M-as a never-to-be-forgotten sight. 

Wandering amid the ruins of the Coliseum, the 
palace of the Csesars, baths of Caraccala, the Roman 
Forum, and other important points in this city of an- 
tiquities, a peculiar sadness steals over the mind of the 
thouorhtful tourist. Here guests were eiitertahied in 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 157 

the gorgeous palace, yonder wah the secret corridor of 
the monarchs who feared assassination amid the glitter 
and tinsel of imperial display ; there were the baths 
where sixteen hundred could bathe at once, or else- 
where, the spot where gladiators fought each other or 
with wild beasts to amuse the eighty-four thousand 
seated spectators, with twenty thousand more stand- 
ing within the same structure. 

Here are grooves made in the palace pavements by 
the chariot- wheels of the haughty and wealthy patri- 
cians as they gathered from time to time ; a pagan altar, 
where sacrifices were offered over two thousand years 
ago, with shallow trenches cut in tlio stone border 
to hold the blood of the dying animal. Traces of the 
finest frescoes, costliest mosaics and ])oli8hed marbles, 
granite, porphyry, and other stones are visible. Huge 
columns Avhich could not be moved, even by moderik 
appliances, except with great dithculty, also exist. 

Now its glories have vanished. Nero and many 
nameless tyrants slumber in unknown gi-aves. The 
Christian martyr no longer is torn by dogs, hungry 
lions, or daubed with intiannnable substances and 
set on lire to illuminate the s-ardens of Nero at nio-ht- 
fall. No fire is experienced save the glowing w'armth 
of salvation in the hearts of humble worshipers who 
gather in nearly four hundred churches in the Eternal 
City every Sabbath and worship without molestation. 




METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, ROME, 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 



159 



Sixteen of our party attended the Methodist Epis- 
copal mission and partook of the Lord's Sup[)er at the 
regular Sunday service, which was celebrated at the 
close of the sermon. Though the discourse was in 
Italian, we fortunately made the acquaintance of Miss 
Ilaugh, the assistant missionary, who by request de- 
scribed the condition and outlook of the movement at 
a special meeting conducted by us at our hotel in the 
evening. 

After seeing a few remaining points of interest in 
Kome we departed for Naples, where our itinerary 
had booked us for three days, including a s])ecial trip 
to the famous ruins of Pompeii, buried by volcanic 
action A. D. 79. Plere the remaining members of our 
Oriental party joined us. 




160 MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER IX. 

At the Palace of King Humbert. — Vesuvius Visited. — 
European Warlike Movements. — Pompeii Resurrected! 
— Impressions of Greece. 

"The needle turns away from tlie rising sun, from the merid- 
ian, from the Occidental, from regions of fragrance and gold 
and gems, and moves with unerring impulse to the frosts and 
deserts of the North!" — Walter Savage Landor. 

PRIOTl to our departure from Rome we liad the un- 
expected privilege of visiting the rojal palace. 
King Humbert and family were absent, spending a few 
weeks at watering-places. We found the apartments 
in process of renovation, though ample opportunity 
was afforded us to insjject critically the entire suite 
of rooms usually occupied by the ruling monarch. 

The reception rooms, ball, dining, smoking, and 
other apartments of the royal family were examined 
with the utmost care. Tapestry and laces of the finest 
description, with an abundance of mirrors, paintings, 
statuary, chairs in gilt and velvet plush, with a rare 
display of other adornments, were freely shown. Even 
the private chapel of the absent king, contrary to all 
custom and in violation of exjDlicit orders to tlie con- 
trar}', the person in charge assured us, was thrown 
open, owing to the potent jjower and seductive bland- 



■» MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 161 

ishments of timely ''' tips," in the form of live-franc 
pieces, from our experienced guide. 

For a single moment, indeed, I, witli Yankee au- 
dacity, ascended the royal steps and sat upon the 
tlirone of Italy. An apprehension of being ruthless- 
ly and ignominiously ejected by soldiers " armed to 
the teeth " in an adjoining room compelled me to 
retire from the exalted position before suggesting any 
of the plans for the amelioration of the moral, social, 
and religious condition of the people which pressed 
upon my mind. '* Uneasy lies the liead that wears 
the crown," asserts the well worn saw; but a Yankee 
on the throne of Italy is far from feeling unbroken 
security, knowing that his tenure of office is bounded 
by seconds rather than years. Such, at least, was my 
experience. King Humbert possesses fair but not 
great abilities, and as a ruler is beloved by his people. 

"Warlike mutterings, ever and anon, are heard in 
social, commercial, and political circles, and seen in 
the public press, not only in Italy, but elsewhere in 
Europe. When we consider the vast number of sol- 
diers distributed throughout tlie several nationalities 
of the "old world," who at any moment may be 
hurled against each other in death gi-apple at the 
dictum of a single hot-headed monarch, one may well 
shudder. 

Orermany has one million fighting men; Austria 



162 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

has eight hundred thousand, which number is sus- 
ceptible of vast increase ; while France could in a 
few weeks place in the field two million additional 
soldiers. Russia has at her disposal fourteen hundred 
thousand men, and in an emergency could arm and 
equip a million more. England is good for a million 
and a half at the proper moment, while Italy has 
made noteworthy progress in military matters during 
the past quarter of a century, and could place an army 
of six hundred thousand men in motion, unsurpassed 
in skill and bravery by those of any other nation, in 
a few weeks, should occasion require. Just now there 
is an ominous lull. It may or may not precede the 
inevitable storm of shot and shell that sooner or later 
will decimate the now happy homes of thousands of 
families. America, at least, will unite in the hope that 
the reign of the Prince of Peace may speedily prove 
world-wide and universal. 

Much of the ride to the ancient city of Naples was 
through orchards of fig, plum, apple, jDear, olive, and 
other fruit-bearing trees. Yegetables apparently re- 
ceive little attention, nnless cultivated near a large 
and needy market — the great cities. The tall, taper- 
ing Lombard jDoplars, as on the sunny plains of 
France, are grown in great profusion. Hoav grace- 
fully do their beautiful forms point the hardy sons 
of labor, who tirelessly toil in these fields year after 



MY JnURI^JiY TO jmiUSALKM. 153 

3'ear, to another and better world, where man rests 
from his work ! Tliree crops ainiually are grown in 
soutliern Enrope. Where fertilization snfficient to 
meet these immense drafts on the soil comes from is 
a problem. Comparatively little stock is kept on 
their farms. Herds of goats, rambling on inaccessi- 
ble cliffs, flocks of wandering turkeys, the domestic 
hen, a few donkeys, with here and there a cow, com- 
prise the usnal varieties. One large source of sup- 
ply is the refuse of the cities. Xot only the litter 
from the stables, but the street sweepings, are care- 
fully utilized as well. 

The donkey is almost omnipresent. Drawing 
heavily loaded little carts, or with huge bales, bun- 
dles, panniers, or other weights fastened to their 
1)acks, surmounted in many instances by a heavy 
driver, the patient creatures have a hard life of it. 
Donkey races on the sea-shore constitute some of the 
varieties of amusements in vogue at certain fashiona- 
l)le watering-places. 

Perhaps the most dismal sound emitted from the 
throat of a domestic animal is the braying of the jack- 
ass. Its unearthly and heart-rending noise is heard 
l)y day and night, almost continuously, in Eastern 
countries. It seems to be a cross between the screech 
of a locomotive whistle, the howl of a wolf, the roar 
of a lion, or the wail of a lost spirit in Dante's In- 



164 MY JOURNEY TO JEkUSALUM. 

ferno. Gazing "upon the brute during the operation 
the scene is grotesque in the extreme. One thinks 
that the experiment would almost be sufficient to dis- 
locate the neck of the miserable quadruped. 

Speaking of this animal recalls an incident related 
by a Methodist bishop. At a select party several in- 
different songs had been sung. Finally the good 
bishop was asked to sing also. Declining politely, he 
offered to compromise by relating a story, which was 
promptly accepted. 

"A company of American tourists," he said, "travel- 
ing in Egypt, at the close of a hard day's journey, were 
entertaining themselves by singing several familiar 
]iymns. At the close of one of the pieces a jackass 
stuck his head through the tent door and brayed ^'ig- 
orously in tlie most unearthly and distressing manner. 
As the startled tourists were trying to recover their 
composure their Arab di'agoman entered the tent and 
in broken English remarked, apologetically : ' You 
sing a song he tink he know.' " It is needless to re- 
mark that the bishop was not asked to make any 
further contribution to the entertainment of the even- 
ing. 

As we approach the East it is fully apparent that 
many of our modern ideas of comfort and civilization 
are practically ignored. On the arrival of our train 
at Brindisi we waited nearly an hour for the pro- 



MY JOUHyKY TO JEIWHALKM. 165 

traded and wearisome Uihle cfJiMe dinner to begin, 
though it had been ordered three days before. Time 
was precious and our steamer would soon sail. One 
wash-basin alone was available for twenty-six persons, 
who waited until other members of the party had 
completed their ablutions. 

At the wharf, in the darkness of the night, we 
groped our way along with difficulty to reach a row- 
boat, which was to convey us to the steamer, about to 
leave for Patras, Greece. Then, Avitli difficulty, and 
in danger of breaking one's bones in case of falling, 
we climbed up a rope ladder to the deck. On leav- 
ing the steamer at the end of the route the small boat 
M'as again brought into rerpiisition to convey us to 
the shore. The possibility of dredging the channel 
or of building a pier over the shallow M'ater evidently 
has not entered the mind of the stupid authorities. 

During our tarry at Naples a side trip -was made to 
Vesuvius, wliieh had been in an active state for sev- 
eral months. Though the ascent was accomplished 
with difficulty, the panoramic view of Naples and its 
wonderful bay, with Capri, the resting place of brave 
old Garibaldi, and other adjacent islands, was a great 
delight. Down into the fiery and awful throat of 
Vesuvius we gazed. Foi' a few moments the view 
M'as clear and unobstructed in any manner. At 
brief intervals, with terrific snorts and puffing like 



166 MY JOURNEY TO jmiU SALEM. 

an immense blast-furnace, masses of lava and other 
debris were shot into the air to the height of pei'- 
haps one hundred and fifty feet, which fell in show- 
ers in every direction. The spectacle was sublimely 
grand and not wholly destitute of a spice of personal 
danger. 

For a franc (about twenty cents) our guides would 
run to the very edge of the belching monster and 
place a coin or key from your pocket into the molten 
lava. When cool the pieces are carried home by 
tourists as souvenirs. All the inountains in the 
vicinity and for miles distant, even as we approach 
tlie Ionian Isles and Grecian Archipelago, give undis- 
puted evidence of their volcanic origin. 

Vesuvius is perhaps tlie oldest active volcano. 
Many others, once terribly destructive, have become 
absolutel}' extinct. Strabo erroneously declared in 
his day that this was then the condition of Yesuvius. 
He was totally and terribly mistaken. 

The burial of seven towns, A. D. 79, by this vol- 
cano, including Herculaneum and Pompeii, can never 
1 )e effaced from the pages of history ; nor can its 
frightful and destructive violence in our own day, nota- 
l)ly in 1822 and 1SY2. Even now the foremost and 
most consj)icuous scientists of modern times, includ- 
ing Professor Palmieri, regard its present indications 
with grave ajaprehension. Examinations by compe- 



Jir JOVRNAT TO JERUSALEM. 167 

tent experts are regularly made, in order tliat timely 
warning may be given to the people in the valley and 
on the sunny slopes of the fiery monster. The culti- 
vation of the grape in inimerons vineyards is being 
carried well up its sides. Great clusters of the ripe 
and delicious fruit, together Avith an abundance of 
figs, gladdened the eye as we made our progress slowly 
upward. 

Pompeii ! Here is the city of silence ! Sti-eet after 
street without vehicles or pedestrians save a few visit- 
ing tourists ; stores without goods or customers ; resi- 
dences of the rich and poor, M'ith no one at home, 
and temples of lust, with brazen, disgusting, and ob- 
scene emblems, happily destitute of occupants or vic- 
tims. It lias been said by a recent writer that all 
cities have places of similar low character, which is a 
lamentable fact. But it may be doubted whether 
similar degrading advertisements of tlie business were 
ever displayed elsewhere on the face of the o-lobe. 

Comparative!}' few lives were lost at tlie time of its 
burial in volcanic mud and ashes over eighteen cent- 
uries ago, timely warning having been gis'en. The 
sidewalks and liea\'y stone pavements are well pre- 
served, as are most of the buildings. (Irooves made 
in the streets l>y the Roman chariots are ]3lainl3' visi- 
ble. Fountanis, baths, l)akeries, tlie doctor's office, 
and other places still remain. In some instances 



168 MY JOURNlilY TO JERUSALEM. 

painted signs on the stuccoed walls of stores exist, 
showing the kind of business that was conducted at 
the spot. Even the ancient cemetery has been ex- 
liumed, revealing'well-preserved monuments describ- 
ing the virtues of the departed, one a boy of twelve 
years of age. 

"We drank at the old well that quenched the thirst 
of the inhabitants of Pompeii before its disastrous 
overthrow. In many places the walls of buildings 
have been restored in a measure to prevent utter de- 
struction and decay. Soldiers guard the sj)ot, by di- 
rection of the Italian authorities, to prevent vandalism 
on the part of visitors. 

Eighty loaves of bread were found in the oven of 
the public bakery during the earlier excavations, 
where they had been left by the fleeing proprietor. 
The elder Pliny lost his life at the time the city was 
destroyed, and to the younger Pliny we are indebted 
for much valuable information relative to its fate. 
Thirteen skeletons were found in one house, of whicli 
five were the remains of females. Tlie j)anic was so 
great that the rich sought safety at the homes of the 
plebeian, who in turn fled for refuge to the palace of 
the patrician. Many bodies were found in extensive 
wine-vaults. Some who had escaped lost their lives 
in returning for their valuables, which were found by 
their remains, and from the skeleton of othei-s belts 



MV JOVnXEY TO .TKRUSALEM. 169 

ctf gold and silver were subsequently taken. Owing 
to the fact that the great amphitheater was filled with 
many of the people attending some sort of a play in 
the open air outside of the Avails of the city, and the 
timely warning given, to which reference has been 
made, the loss of life Avas reduced, comparatively, to a 
minimum ]^oint. 

The acoustic properties of the vast amphitheater 
are remarkable. Repeated experiments made by 
members of our party proved that every word spoken 
could be distinctly heard at the remotest portion of 
the structure, tliough uttered in a moderate tone of 
voice. Excavations are still in progress, though car- 
ried on in a straggling and unsystematic manner, with 
few laborers. Competent engineers and a full force 
of men, such as were employed at Johnstown, Pa., 
after its fatal destruction, would accomplish the entire 
work in a period of three months. And yet sporadic 
eiforts have been in progress for more than seventeen 
centuries ! 

The sail from Brindisi to Patras, already noted, 
was one of quiet yet solid satisfaction. Islands 
around whicli so many classical associations cluster in 
song, tradition, or sober history lent peculiar charms 
to the voyage. With a silent sea, cloudless sky, and 
a balmy atmosphere one seemed almost in a pleasant 
dream. 



170 MY JOVRNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

Corfu, where we touched for a few lioiirs to re 
ccive and discharge passengers and freight, presented 
an attractive appearance. The buildings, like most 
of those in southern Europe, were of the yellowish 
white stone, or stucco, already described. 

A fleet of small boats surrounded us with almost 
magical promptitude on our arrival, to convey pas- 
sengers to the shore. Like other Eastern harbors, no 
effort is made to deepen the channel or construct a 
pier to accommodate vessels of much draught of 
water. 

Cases of wine, empty wine-casks, some iron tubing, 
with a few other articles, comprised the amount of 
freight left by our steamer, which served to indicate 
the limited business done at this far away and obscure 
locality. Steamers flying various national flags were 
lying peacefully at anchor in the land-locked harbor, 
one being an Italian school-ship M'liere young men 
were being trained for the navy of that country. 
Corfu, after many changes during its past history, 
now belongs to Greece. 

Patras was reached in the early dawn of the follow- 
ing morning. Amid a crowd of jieddlei-s, beggars, 
or porters desiring to carry luggage, wa found our 
way to the custom-house. After a superficial exam- 
ination we ^vere soon on board the Grecian i-ailway 
train en roiite to Athens. 



JfY JOURXEY ro JERUSALEM. \1\ 

"Wo pass near Misuloiiglii, capital uf Italia. It 
has sustained stubborn and protracted sieges. Marco 
Bozzaris, witli a force of four hundred patriots, deiied 
a Turkish army of fourteen thousand men, which 
finally withdrew, for two months. Lord Byron, who 
contributed £12,000 to the cause of Greece, and 
organized a brigade at his own expense, died liere 
Api-il 10, 182J:. As our train glides onward we 
reflect upon liis extraordinary gifts and poetry, his 
uidiappy domestic life, dissolute character, and his 
pecuhar if nut unnatural mother. 

As a solemn admonition to smugglers, we learne*! 
at Patras that one detected in the act at that port two 
days before we landed had l)een fined 1,800 francs, 
and was then serving a tei-m of imprisonment in the 
common jail besides. Patras is memorable in Gre- 
cian history from the fact that near the spot a com- 
plete victory was achieved over the Turks in one of 
their earlier campaigns. Mount Parnassus lifts its 
lofty and classical brow with seeming pride as our 
train glides on to its destination. 

At one of the numerous stations we see for the 
first time wine in skin bottles. Then the biblical al- 
lusion concerning putting new wine into old bottles 
is suggested. 

We passed through the celebrated currant region, 
where annually large quantities of the (h-ied fruit are 



172 ^Vr JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

exported to America and elsewhere. The currants 
are packed in hogsheads for shipment. As we went 
by men were standing in the half -filled casks, stamping 
energetically with their heavy shoes to make room 
for more of the fruit then being brought to them. 
The ladies of our party contemplated tlie spectacle 
with evident disgust, and declared that henceforth the 
dried fruit used by them should be washed more 
carefully than ever. 

It was a long ride to Athens. In order to catch 
the train we went without our breakfast, save a roll 
and a bunch of luscious grapes procured near the de- 
j)ot. A royal and substantial meal, ordered by tele- 
graph by our thoughtful tourist conductor, awaited 
us at one P. M. at an intermediate point, however. 
Small armies have frequently won great victories, at 
least it was so in this instance, as our hungry party 
made a vigorous onslaught on the toothsome viands 
placed before us. Not even a single small " basket 
of fragments " remained at the close of that meal, 
much less twelve, as recorded in the biblical narrative 
of the miracle of the loaves and tlie fishes. 

Modern Athens is an attractive place. Fine mar- 
ble buildings, broad drives and sidewalks, horse rail- 
roads, with all the conveniences of modern times, 
render it the delight of the average tourist. To be 
sure, some drawbacks existed. It was the dry season. 



JfV JOi'UXEY TO JERUSALEM. 173 

and the eartli and air aljounded with a white dust 
ground by attrition from the stones of the street. 
\egetation seemed nearly extinct — no green grassy 
lawns or fields of verdure, and, like much of southern 
Europe, no visible forests. 

Mutilated coin, so much abominated in the United 
States, circulates freely throughout the East. The 
climax had evidently been reached in Athens. De- 
siring a draft to be cashed, to my deep disgust the 
entire amount was paid me in punctured gold coin, 
all the holes being of considerable size. I was very 
careful to exchange them for other money before 
sailing for Smyrna. Such debased coin is as eagerly 
received by merchants and other business men as 
similar coin was in America a iew years ago before 
the craze for its extermination began. 

Continental Greek is the chief language spoken, 
with a sprinkling of English, German, and French. 
The university at Athens has fourteen hundred 
students, nearly all of whom are natives of Greece, 
A high-school also exists, which has a good repu- 
tation. 

Professor Van Benschoten, of Wesleyan Univer- 
sity, Middletown, Conn., delights to tell the follow- 
ing incident : Entering a cafe at Athens, he called 
for canned corned beef in his best Greek, beinff a 
recognized Greek scholar. Large quantities of the 




STATUE OF JUPITEB OLYMPUS. 



J/V JOUllXEY TO JERUSALEM. I75 

meat are imported from the United State.s. The 
waiter said, apologetically, in Continental Greek : 

" We have no canned corned beef, but we have 
some canned "—then pausing a little to show that lie 
knew at least one word in English, he repeated — "but 
we have some canned language," meaning tongue, the 
Greek word yAwCTtra (glpssa) for tongue and language 
being identical. 

Much to the regret of many tourists and all archa3- 
ologists the Acropolis and other classical ruins in 
Athens are fast crumbling to decay. Some effort 
nnist 1)0 made by the government or arcliajological 
societies to conserve and restore them for future gen- 
erations, or it Avill be too late. Huge blocks of finely 
chiseled marbles, bearing important Greek inscriptions, 
lie outside the walls of the Acropolis, hopelessly shat- 
tered. How sad are all the surroundings. Where 
sages, philosophers, scholars, warriors, and statesmen 
formerly assembled only a few straggling goats could 
be seen as I went at the dawn of day to view the 
sunrise. Some Grecian tramps, Mdio had spent the 
night amid the mighty columns, crawled forth at my 
approacli. SIg transit gloria mundi. What thoughts 
press upon the mind, reflecting as we do that we are 
in the land of Homer, Socrates, Xenophon, Galen, 
Alcibiades, and other famous men of by-gone ages. 

At five P. M. Sunday a religious service was con- 
13 



176 MY JOURNEY TO JEllUtiALEM. 

ducted on Mars' Hill bj' members of our party. Prof. 
D. R. Duijgaii, the Kev. Dr. Porteus, the Rev. Dr. 
Stone, of Hartford, and the author took part. The 
retiring American consul M-as also present, the Hon. 
Mr. Moffat, of jSTew Jersey. He returned to the 
United States the followino- Ayeek. 




MARS HILL. 



The Rev. Dr. T. De Witt Talmage, who preaclied 
oil Mars' Plill a few weeks later, said : " Though more 
classic associations are connected with this city than 
Avith any other city under the sun, because here 
Socrates and Plato and Aristotle and Demosthenes 
and Pericles and Herodotus and Pythagoras and 
Xenophon and Praxiteles wrote or chiseled or taught 



MY JOURNEY TO JJ-JRCl^ALEM. 177 

or tliuiulered or sung, yet in my mind all those men 
and tlieir teachings M'ere eclipsed by Panl and the 
Gospel he preached in tliis city and in your near by 
city of Corinth. Yesterday, standing on the old for- 
tress at Corinth, the Acro-Corinthus, out from the 
ruins at its base arose in my imagination the old city, 
just as Paul saw it. I have been told that for splen- 
dor the Avorld beholds no such wonder to-day as that 
ancient Corinth standing on an isthmus washed by 
two seas, the one sea bringing the commerce of 
Europe, the other sea bringing the commerce of Asia. 
From her wharves, in the construction of which whole 
kingdoms had been absorbed, war-galleys with three 
banks of oars pushed out and confounded the navy- 
yards of all the world. Huge-handed machinery, such 
as modern invention cannot equal, lifted ships from 
the sea on one side and transported them on trucks 
across the isthmus and set them down in the sea on 
the other side. The revenue officers of the city went 
down through the olive-groves that lined the beach 
to collect a tariff from all nations. The mirth of all 
people sported in her Isthmian games, and the beauty 
of all lands sat in her theaters, walked her porticoes, 
and thrcAV itself on the altar of her stupendous dissi- 
pations. Colunni and statue and temple bewildered 
the beholder. There were white marble fountains 
into M'hich, from apertures at the side, there rushed 



178 -^^y JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 

waters everj-wliere known fur health-giving qualities. 
Around these basins, twisted into wreaths of stone, 
there were all the beauties of sculpture and architect- 
ure, while standing as if to guard the costly display 
was a statue of Hercules of burnished Corinthian 
brass. Vases of terra-cotta adorned the cemeteries of 
the dead — vases so costly that Julius Ciesar was not 
satisfied until he had captured them for Rome. Armed 
officials, the corintharii, paced up and down to see 
that no statue was defaced, no pedestal overthroMai, 
no bass-relief touched. From the edge of the city the 
hill held its magnificent burdens of columns and tow- 
ers and temples (one thousand slaves waiting at one 
shrine), and a citadel so thoroughly impregnable that 
Gibraltar is a heap of sand compared wdth it. Amid 
all that strength and magnificence Corinth stood and 
defied the world." 



J/i' JOLRXEY TO JERUSALJlM. 179 



CHAPTER X. 

Departure for Smyrna. — The Land op Passports. — A 
Fever-smitten City. — Mount Pagos. — The Grecian 
Archipelago. — An Excursion to Epiiesus. — At the 
Birthplace of Saul. 

WE left Athens with its wealth of classical associa- 
tions and never-to-be-forgotten ruins with 
emotions of deep regret. Weeks and months indeed 
might be spent in the ancient and time-honored city 
and en\arons with increasing interest and profit. But 
the hour of departing is inexorable. Other and more 
distant lands remain to be visited. Turkey, Palestine, 
and Egypt, including numberless places clothed with 
historical, biblical, or legendary suggestions, lure us 
onward. 

A final and delightful carriage-drive conveyed our 
party through the most prominent streets of Athens 
to Pirseus, its sea-port. It is distant five miles, with a 
good road, though the Iiot and dusty season is oppress- 
ive. Daily connnunications are also made Ijy railway 
trains. 

Pirseus is situated on a peninsula and boasts of 
three harbors, one being set apart for ships of war. 
Until the termination of the protracted Persian War 



180 MY JO liRNEY TO JliR I \S. I LKU. 

Phaleron was the recognized port of Athens. The- 
mistocles, seeing the vast strategic importance of a 
change, inaugurated the movement. Later genera- 
tions have fully appreciated his sagacity. Pirieus 
finally fell before the fury of Sylla and his indomitable 
warriors, and subsequently dwindled into comparative 
insignificance. Dnring the days of Strabo it had de- 
generated into a straggling village, presenting few in- 
dications of its former importance. Tlie growth of 
the modern town can be traced no further than the 
year 1834. Its harl)or, though naturally good, like all 
Eastern sea-ports is allowed to fill up gradually with 
sediment until even ships of moderate draught are 
compelled to anchor some distance from the shore. 

For the first time on our journey we now require 
passports, since we sail to Smyrna, where files the 
Turkish flag. Armed with a polite note of introduc- 
tion from Mr. Walker Fearn, then our popular United 
States minister at Athens, three of us were driven 
rapidly to the residence of the Turkish consul-general 
at Piraeus. Our steamer would sail in two hours, 
hence there w^as no time to be lost. 

Unfortunately, we arrived a few minutes before 
ofiice hours. Yigorous and repeated knocks finally 
aroused a sleepy clerk. lie took the letter from the 
American minister with a lofty manner of disdain, 
and disappeared to receive orders from his superior^. 



J/)' JOUliXJ'JY TO JERrSALEJJ. 181 

the vice-consul, wlio was lost in the mazes of an after- 
noon Turkish siesta. At length he returned, with a 
shrug and an atmosphere of contempt at the Chris- 
tian dogs who did not happen to know his oftice hours. 
He was evidently a novice at the work, and Avas soon 
obliged to call his sui)erior, who finally appeared. 
With evident ill-humor and insufferable hautexir he 
completed the business. By his own l^luiider he had 
placed the name of n lady and gentleman of our party, 
practically strangers to each otlier, on one passjjort, 
much to their annoyance. Wliile the mistake was 
being explained to him he shrugged his shoulders, 
elevated his nose, aiui disa})])eared, leaving the party 
to make the best of it, M'hile he jingled his fees — ■ 
many iive-franc pieces — in his pocket. 

The steamers route from Pirivus to Smyrna was 
of a serpentine character. Through the sleeping 
waters of the ^Egean Sea, or Grecian Archipelago, 
which separates Greece from Asia Minor, we pursued 
onr course. The days were clear and the atmosphere 
balmy. Islands, near and remote, reared their blue 
outlines from the surrounding sea with a delicious 
and dreamy appearance. All were of a mountainous 
character, with unmistakable evidence of their volcanic 
origin. "What important events of song and story are 
associated M'ith these quiet waters and graceful, taper- 
ing, mountain peaks ! Contending armies have met. 



182 ^ly JOUUXEY TO JERUSALEM:. 

The "wail of the dying has mingled with tlie triumph- 
ant shout of victory. The prince and the peasant — 
lovers, warriors, and even nations, that once flour- 
ished amid these suggestive surroundings, have van- 
ished like very' vapors. 

Chios, or Scio, its modern name, is reached. It is 
the first land under Turkish rule yet sighted. Con- 
quered in the fourteenth century, the inhabitants 
were barbarously bntcliered by their captors, the blood- 
tliirsty Turks. Later, it fell into the hands of the 
Genoese ; but was subsequently re-captured by the 
same power, wliich has mercilessly ruled it ever since, 
though insurrections have been of frequent origin. 
Ion the tragedian, Theopompus the historian, and 
Theocritus tlie sophist were born here. 

Owing to the shallow water the steamer anchored 
fnlly one half of a mile from the shore. In a few 
moments the ship was surrounded by a fleet of small 
boats, seeking to convey passengers and baggage to 
the shore. The din was doleful and the tumult inde- 
scribable as the half-clad, sturdy, and swarthy natives 
vociferated wildl}'. Finding but two or three passen- 
gers to take to the land, many climbed upon the deck 
of the steamer with articles for sale. Strange con- 
fections, or jellies, in glass tumblers, were offered, 
but found no purchasers, doubt being expressed re- 
garding tlieir composition and utility. I compro- 



M Y JOi liXK Y TO J Eli I '^'ALKif. 183 

mised and purchased some peanuts from an innocent- 
looking vender, but soon regretted my choice, since 
their antiquated flavor failed to evoke the respect or- 
dinarily due to extreme old age. Had they been pre- 
served since the close of Mahomet's career, they 
could scarcely have been less palatable. 

The government salt-works are situated here. On 
the sea-shore, long before vre anchored, huge conical 
heaps of salt, like tents in appearance, attracted onr 
attention. There were more than one hundred and 
fifty of them by actual count. The commerce of the 
place is extremely limited, however, since the island 
has not yet recovered from the disastrous and terrible 
earthquake of 1881, when four thousand lives M-ere 
lost. Silk, wool, and cotton, with a variety of trop- 
ical fruits, constitute its chief prodnctiojis. 

Throughout all Oriental countries isolated and strag- 
gling buildings are seldom seen. Unlike the United 
States, cities and villages are usually built compactly 
together of stone. The origin of the style can be sat- 
isfactorily traced to the primitive period, when consoli- 
dation M-as absolutely essential in order to secure pro- 
tection from enemies in M'ar and roving bands of rob- 
bers at all times. 

Smyrna proved to be smitten with a species of 
malarial fever, brought from India, known as the 
" dangee." Xo fewer than fifty thousand cases had 




COLOSSUS OF RHODES. 



j/r JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. i85 

occurred, tliougli the deadly scourge was abating 
materially at the time of our arrival. Evidently it 
was not a desirable place for a jDrolonged visit. In 
fact, when our two days allotted for insi^ccting the 
quaint and ancient city had expired we took the 
French steamer for Beirut with keen satisfaction, the 
unanimous opinion being expressed that it was a good 
place to sail away from. During our rambles about 
the place we saw camels outside of a menagerie for 
the first time in our experience. The streets, dark, 
narrow, and crowded, were full of them. T^snally 
fastened together in droves of five or six, they were 
laden with grapes, figs, and other native products 
brought from various parts of Asia Minor on their 
way to the United States and other distant markets. 
The ungainly forms of the camels, with the tinkling 
of bells fastened to their necks, tlie cpiaint architect- 
ure of the buildings, together with the flowing gai-- 
nients of the drivers and people, served to furnish an 
Oriental picture at once unique and interesting to the 
wanderers from the "West. 

Dogs by uncounted dozens, slumbering on the nar- 
1-0 w sidewalks in tlie heat-of the day, compelling us to 
alter our course lest we should step on them, snapped 
at us as we passed, or darted into a neighboring alley 
with a loM' and defiant gi-owl. The population of 
the city is estimated at two hundred thousand, wliieh 



186 MY JOUIINEY To .JKliiniALE.\t. 

is divided among the Turks, Greeks, Jews, Arme- 
nians, and Franks. All tourists love to frequent the 
bazaars. Thoiigli many articles of a curious or orna- 
mental characrer are offered for sale, tlie shops are 
as a rule dingy, dirty, and labyrinthine. Business is 
transacted largely by English, French, Italian, and 
Dutch merchants. 

Smyrna, with six other localities, claims that the 
immortal Homer was born on her soil. 

" Seven cities claim old Plomer, dead, 

Through which the livin-g Homer begged his bread." 

Here was one of the original seven churches of Asia, 
described by the apostle John in the Book of lievo- 
lation. Its origin has been satisfactorily traced to 
Alexander the Great. Among its exports are cotton, 
dried fruits, silk, camel's and goat's hair, wool, and 
opium, while its imports include coffee, sugar, indigo, 
alcoholic liquors, iron, steel, lead, and tin. 

The Bev. Dr. D. S. Schaff, who made a similar 
tour a few months previous to the arrival of our 
party, recorded his impressions in that most excellent 
paper, the New York Mail 'and Express, from Avhich 
we make extracts. He says concerning Smyrna : 
' " One of the odd sights on the streets of Smyrna is 
the turkeys. The Smyrnese drive them in flocks as 
we do sheep, and kee^J them in order with long rods. 



AfY JOiriiXEY TO JERUSALEM. 187 

" The articles of export are dried fruits, olive-oil, 
grains, and rugs; these fill extensive warehouses. 
Smyrna is the principal source of supply, after Spain, 
of licorice root. The acorn of the valorea oak is 
brought to the city in large quantities, and the hull, 
"which secretes tannin, is shipped to England, Russia, 
and esjiecially Trieste for tanning purposes. The 
annual export of raisins amounts to twenty thousand 
tons, and they are worth from twentj'-seven to 
forty-seven shillings a liundred-weight on the ves- 
sel. The grapes are picked when ripe, and dipped 
in potassium and water to facilitate the processes 
of drying and preservation. While the Smyrna 
merchants ship no grade of raisins equal in quality 
to the raisins of Malaga, they deal in small sul- 
tanas exclusively. They are seedless, light, golden 
in color, and translucent, and grow only here and in 
small quantities at Damascus. 

" The fig-market of Smyrna is the largest in the 
world. Like the raisins, they pass through commis- 
sion merchants to the lacking-houses. I visited the 
warehouse of Mr. Krikorian, an intelligent Armenian 
who speaks English and whose brands are well known 
abroad. The fig is allowed to fall from the tree and 
is allowed to remain on the ground for three or four 
days till it is thoroughly dried. They are then gath- 
ered into goat's-hair bags, holding three hundred and 



188 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

twenty pounds, and carried to tlie city by team or 
camel. In the warehouses they are thrown in heaps 
upon the stone floor and assorted by women into dif- 
ferent grades. The women keep their hands moist- 
ened with salt water, which gives the fruit a gloss, 
makes it pliable, and helps to preserve it. The poorer 
qualities are packed in bags, the poorest being sent 
principally to Marseilles, where they are used for vin- 
egar and spirits. The better qualities are carried to 
tables, and pressed by men into shape and packed for 
the market. The flat or pressed flgs, called also pulled 
flgs, are preferred by the American consumer. The 
lacoums, or figs more loosely packed, are preferred by 
the English. The best qualities are packed in boxes. 
Mr. Krikorian manufactures his own boxes. The 
packing season lasts from August 1<) to November 1. 
The annual shipment from Smyrna is five thousand 
tons, varying in price from tM'enty-three to thirty-four 
shillings a hundred-weight, delivered on board sliip. 
The best tigs are grown in the district between Ephesus 
and Adin. The fruit growji on the islands does not 
keep, and is not adapted for export. The fig-tree does 
not bear until it is twelve years old, unless the ground 
is carefully cultivated. The establishment of Mr. Kri- 
korian alone employs two hundred and seventy men 
and women. . . . 

" Smyrna was one of the earliest stations occupied 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 189 

by the Ainerican Board. Pliny Fit^k and Levi Par- 
sons, the lirst missionaries, began to labor here in 
1820. The visible results have not been as satisfac- 
tory at this sea-port as in the inland cities, but the 
place is a strategic point and must be held. I missed 
the Rev, Lyman Bartlett and Mr. McNaughton, who 
were off in the interior on a preaching tour, as also 
the Rev. Mr. Constantine, a converted Greek, but 
found the ladies and school-teachers at home, and had 
the pleasure of visiting the girls' school, which is at- 
tended by fifty day and fifteen boarding scholars. 
The mission also conducts a school for boys and a kin- 
dergarten. The buildings are ample and commo- 
dious. No one at a distance can form any adequate 
idea of the pleasant and restful contrast between tlie 
aspect of the mission premises in these Eastern cities 
and their surroujidings. Going into them and breath- 
ing their atmosphere, freighted with the culture of 
Christian society, is like drinking from a fresh and 
living fountain by the dusty way. The Baptists have 
a mission, and the Scotch work among the Jews." 

The ascent of Mount Pagus, on foot, during a day 
of torrid heat, will not soon be forgotten. A few 
of our party rode up the mountain on donkeys, fol- 
lowed by donkey boys who urged the unhappy brutes 
to their utmost speed, which seldom exceeded a 
walk. At length the summit was reached, and a 



190 MY JOUENEY TO JERUSALEM. 

panoramic view of entrancing beauty rewarded us. 
The vast city with mosques and minarets was spread 
before us, boi-dered by the broad and beautiful bay. 

Near the top of the mountain the grave of Poly- 
carp is shown. He was the first Bishop of Smyrna. 
Here the first Christian church in Smyrna is said to 
have stood. The place is still carefully pointed out 
to tourists as one of the antiquities of the city. A 
rude mosque now occupies the site of the ancient 
structure. Rags attached to sticks near the spot 
fluttered in the gentle breeze. They were torn from 
the clothing of invalids by friends and brought to the 
sacred site, under the impression that health would 
thereby return once more. Our conductor cautioned 
us against approaching a certain spot where a rude 
mat was placed with some attempt at decoration, 
since it was regarded as a holy situation. Death has 
been inflicted on some presumptuous but thoughtless 
visitor who went too far in his curiosity. 

Smyi'na has very bad drinking-water, and the strict- 
est temperance man is puzzled to know what to drink 
in that fever-smitten city, esj)ecially at meals when 
tea and coffee are not served. At different periods 
the cholera and plague have decimated the population, 
while terrific earthquakes have been experienced, not- 
ably in A. D. 1Y8 and 1846. By a destructive fire in 
1841 more than twelve thousand buildings were swept 



MY JOnRNEY TO JERUSALEM. 191 

awaj in a few hours, as the appliances for extinguish- 
ing conflagrations were and are exceedingly primitive. 

An evening visit was made to the " Smyrna Rest," 
for seamen, on the quay fronting the bay. A big, 
honest-looking leader was in charge. A few years 
ago he entered a Bowery Mission, New York, as a 
drunken sailor. He was converted, and now makes 
it his life-work to conduct a similar mission for the 
reformation of sailors touching at Smyrna. A coffee 
and reading room are connected with the enterprise. 

Few books were found, and the supply of papers 
quite limited, though printed in several languages. 
None were of recent date. 

Tlie prayer-meeting held nightly, for seamen and 
visitors chiefly, was of interest, though disturbed by 
the noise from the cafe in the room adjoining. Sev- 
eral of our Palestine party attended service. With 
limited means the mission is doing good, and deserves 
financial aid from Christians elsewhere. The Kev. 
Mr. Constantino is understood to be the official head 
of the movement. He was present one evening when 
our company visited the mission. 

Before sailing from Smyrna a side trip to Ephesus 

was made by railway. Here also was one of the 

seven churches of Asia. It is distant from Smyrna 

fifty miles. But few traces of its former grandeur 

remain, A section of the great Roman aqueduct, 
13 



192 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

foundations of tlie famous temple of Diana, and 
other prominent structures alone exist. 

This renowned temple, so dazzling that visitors 
were cautioned to look out for their eyesight on en- 
tering it, was four hundred and twenty-five feet long 
and two hundred and twenty feet wide. The roof 
was of cedai", which was supported by one himdred and 
twenty-eight colunms sixty feet liigh. The statue of 
the goddess Diana was composed of ivory, profusely 
decorated with ornaments of gold. According to a well 
authenticated tradition tliis magnificent temple — justly 
styled one of the seven wonders of the world — was 
entirely consumed by an incendiaiy fire. A mis- 
guided miscreant, Erostratus by name, confessed the 
crime ; his desire being an eternity of disgrace, know- 
ing that in this form his name would descend to re- 
motest posterity. 

Iloi'ses, bony, sore, spavined, and ring-boned, were 
in readhiess to take the party to distant points of in- 
terest. After all were supplied, I mounted a misera- 
ble bony l)rute, the only one remaining, astride of a 
rough Turkish saddle, where buckles, strajDS, and need- 
less bunches suggestive of the torture of the Inquisi- 
tion were plentiful, and Nvhich soon removed much 
cuticle from my lower limbs. All the animals were 
fresh from the ])low, really the best available, since 
they were to be used but two or three hours. My 



J/ }' JO I 'RXE Y TO JER USA LEM. I93 

superainiuated (|UHdnipcd could not be coaxed out 
of a walk. To confess the naked truth, owinff to 
my inexperience as a horseman and to the buckles 
and bunches aforesaid sci-aping tlie surplus flesh from 
my body, I was not especially ambitious that he 




THE.VTKR AT KPHESFS RESTORED. 



should quicken his pace. I rode as far as the cave in 
which the early Christians conducted their services, 
it being the first church of Ephesus, which I entered 
and carefully examined. 

Here I surrendered the aged horse to a native at- 
tendant, and returned on foot to the hotel, examinino- 



194 3/F JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

various ruins by the way. Whether Paul actually 
" fought Math beasts at Ephesus " or not has for cent- 
uries been an unsolved j^roblem in theological circles. 
Whatever were the facts in his case, personally I re- 
tained distinct and painful impressions of my experi- 
ence with this venerable and cadaverous beast at the 
site of the same city for many days after my visit. 
Our party returned later, but in good season for a 
substantial dinner at the Ephesus hotel. 

Ephesus is simply a desolation. The threat to 
" blot her out," recorded in the Book of Revelation, 
has been amply fulfilled. She did not repent, and for 
long centuries no Christian Church has existed there. 
The cave of the Seven Sleepers, where seven young 
Christian fugitives are said to have slept two hundred 
years and found Christianity triumphant on awaken- 
ing, St. Luke's grave, and many other apochryphal 
localities are pointed out to the credulous tourist. 

In the stone walls around some of the farming land 
fragments of capitals, friezes, columns, and other por- 
tions of the ancient temple and other edifices can be 
seen. What an ignoble end of a mighty career ! 
Much curiosity exists among archaeologists as to the 
whereabouts of the vast quantities of building material 
of which these structures were originally composed. 

Thousands of acres of unfenced land, covered with 
myriads of cobble-stones, are seen on every hand. 



My JOVRXJiY TO JERUSALEM. 195 

How the average goat manages to exist during the 
dry season is an unsolved problem, since vegetation is 
absolutely invisible, the entire country being, so to 
speak, a bed of hot ashes, gleaming beneath a brassy 
and burning sky. 

We returned to Smyrna at an early hour, finding 
rest and food at our superb hotel, which overlooked 
the waters of the bay. 

In rocking, tossing, small boats we bade a long fare- 
well to Smyrna on the following day, and were rowed 
to the French steamer anchored off shore. Occasion- 
al splashes of water swept over us, caused by the 
strokes of the oars and unskilled rowing of the native 
boatmen. The ship was reached in safety. 

We found the steamer well filled, though ample ac- 
commodations had been reserved for our party 
through the foresight of our conductor. Third and 
even fourth class passengers are taken on these steam- 
ers. The latter bring their own provisions and bed- 
ding, and sleep on the deck in the open air. How- 
ever, in that warm climate, where no rain or dew^ falls 
for several months, it involves no hardship worth 
naming. Turks, with their wives and children hud- 
dled into curtained corners of the main deck, in- 
different to the presence of representatives of nearly 
all nations about them, are passengers. 

The sea continues " as calm as summer's evenings 



MY JOURXEY TO JEHUS ALE. U. 197 

be" in the entire water portion of tlie journey be- 
tween Brindisi, Italy, and Beirut, Syria. By this 
route one is constantly in sight of land — usually some 
place famous in the annals of history, which lends a 
peculiar charm to the entire journey, reviving as 
it does the studies of one's youth. 

The Isle of Patmos displayed its shadowy outlines 
in the gray dawn of the morning, though too far to 
secure distinct impressions. Since it was not includ- 
ed in our itinerary, no stop was made. It seemed 
like a gloomy though quiet and sequestered spot. 
St. John the apostle, banislied to this lonely reti-eat by 
the emperor Domitian, A. I). 95, wrote liere the 
Book of Ivovelation, and possibly the Gospel of John, 
during his confinement. It is a desolate, rocky re- 
gion, the entire island being but twenty-eight miles 
in circumference. At the time of his incarceration 
it was merely a Botany Bay for the imprisonment of 
criminals and political offenders. Tourists are shown 
the spot where St. John is said to have received the 
communications from ]lea^•en, but few if any of them 
venture to believe in it. 

Tarsus is but ten miles distant from Messina, but 
the progress is slow, since the roadway is in poor re- 
pair and the tM'o trains each way daily are of a mixed 
character, combining both freight and passengers in 
their make-up. British capitalists oM'n the railway, 



198 ^y JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

and an English-speaking conductor gave ns an oppor- 
tunity to glean information concerning the country. 
The passenger cars were fairly comfortable, with di- 
vans in portions of them for the special accommoda- 
tion of the traveling Tnrk, who cannot enjoy life un- 
less he tncks both feet crosswise beneath him, sitting 
on his heels tailor fashion. 

At various places along the route the cotton crop 
was being gathered, elsewhere the work had been 
completed, and naught but barren fields of dry stub- 
ble were visible. A Turkish officer entered our car 
and began to take our. names, residence, destination, 
business, asking a variety of other equally imperti- 
nent questions. Our watchful tourist conductor soon 
called him one side, and slipped a fee into his itching 
palms, M-hen he abandoned liis investigations, seem- 
ingly begun in the interest of the government. As 
the miserable Turkish soldier is half clad, often going 
in rags waiting for promised uniforms M'hich are sel- 
dom seen, without even his small salary being paid him, 
in sheer desperation he is driven to bribes and petty 
swindles " to keep soul and body within speaking dis- 
tance of each other," as an erratic Methodist preacher 
once put it in describing his unavailing efforts to live 
on a low salary tardily paid. 

Tarsus traces its origin to the period of Sardanapa- 
lus. It is certainly of very great antiquity. Many 



M y JO URXEY TO JKR VISA LE\(. 199 

important events have taken place within its borders. 
Situated on the right bank of the river C}dnus, it is 
surrounded by an extensive and productive plain of 
great fertility. As in most Eastern countries, the 
houses are built of a species of native stone, with 
flat roofs, presenting a squatty ap})earance. Rude 
bazaars crowd close to the streets, with a meager 
display of primitive wares needed by the native 
population. Dark and dirty loaves of bread, flat as 
tlie proverbial pancake, were being baked before a 
crackling fire of roots and branches of trees in a 
bakery, in full view of the public. An ample supply 
of grapes was displayed in the markets, of which our 
party secured a large quantity, which, with some of 
the dark, freshly baked bread, constituted a lunch, 
Tarsus having no hotel. 

Camels, donkeys, and natives crowded the narrow 
and dingy streets. Evidently we "were as great a 
curiosity to the people as they were to us, as we 
went through the principal streets in the quaintest 
of old-fashioned carriages. Droves of camels were 
arriving and departing, while many of these homely 
but faithful " ships of the desert " were lying in the 
shade, sheltered from the fierce rays of the ruddy 
sun, enjoying a brief though well earned rest. 

St. Paul described Tarsus as " no mean city." 
Whatever may have been its character during his day 



MY .roVRNKY To JA'JirSALJiAf. 201 

it presented a squalid, unattractive, and positively 
mean appearance to ns. For the iirst time we Avit- 
nessed an Eastei-n khan, which was situated at tliis 
place. It had rooms to acconnnodate the men of the 
caravan, with an inclosed court and stalls for the ani- 
mals below. In a similar spot at Bethlehem tlie 
Saviour was born, there being " no room " for tlie 
family "in the inn." Water, called by the Arab 
" the gift of God," is exceedingly scarce, and poor in 
quality. But seventeen inches of rain had fallen 
during the preceding year, which fully explains the 
shrunken appearance of the i-iver Cydnus and the 
Falls of Cydnus, already described. 

Before our train left Tarsus a visit was made to the 
traditional tomb of Sardanajialus and also to the Mo- 
hammedan mosque where the propliet Daniel is said 
to have been buried. The Armenian public school 
M'as in session, and fortunately we had the pleasure of 
seeing a group of bright-eyed little girls go out for a 
short walk under the direction of their teachei'. 
Near by stood a plain Armenian church. Accord- 
ing to tradition it is built on the site of the first 
Christian church in the city, the original foundations 
being utilized. Out of the ancient dome flew a large 
flock of fluttering swallows as we entered the A'en- 
erable structure. Among other relics a piece of 
Xoah's ai'k is soberly placed on exhibition. The men 



202 .^/r JOUJiXEY To JEllUSALmt. 

and women sit apart during hours of worship, occu- 
pying mats on the stone floor. The priest is per- 
mitted to marry but once, and in no case must he be 
united to a blood relative, under penalty of imprison- 
ment for each offense. The Kev. Mr. McLaughlin, 
missionary, being away during the hot season, we 
were obliged to forego a visit to him which had been 
planned by some of the party. 

Our next landing was Alexandretta, eighty miles 
distant. Before going ashore our hearts had been 
gladdened and our curiosity aroused by the appear- 
ance of the American flag, which was disjDlayed above 
a large building near the sea-shore. It never 
seemed so beautiful before. We were unanimousl}'" 
of the opinion until we reached the spot that it 
must be the head-quarters of the United States 
consul. 

It i^roved to be the licorice-root warehouse of the 
Stamford (Conn.) Manufacturing Company. Here 
was a genuine surprise indeed! Although seven 
thousand miles from home, we had stumbled upon 
the American flag, a Yankee business house, and a 
Connecticut one at that, owned by men residing only 
thirty miles from our family. 

Mr. Daniel Walker, suj)erintendent, courteously 
explained the operations of the company and gave us 
much interesting information regarding the condition 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 203 

of the country. The supply of licorice-root is ob- 
tained from the banks of the Euphrates, about three 
hours' ride distant. It is brought on the backs of 
camels in loads of live hundred pounds each. Ap- 
parently the supply is inexhaustible, as much of the 
root remains in the ground, which ra^^idly grows and 
sj^reads after the next rainfall. After being taken 
to the warehouse it is pressed into huge bales, bound 
with iron hoops, and conveyed by steamers to distant 
lands, where it is converted into licorice paste, such 
as is commonly seen in drug-stores. 

Mr. Walker is a Scotchman by birth and has expe- 
rienced many dangers and much rough usage among 
robbers, as he travels in this mountainous region to 
remote places in the interest of his business. How- 
ever, he is as bold as a lion, and '' none of these 
things move him." He goes well armed, is a good 
shot, and a superb horseman. He has the eye of an 
eagle, witli the celerity and caution of a cat. In 
some combat in the near future he may fall, but the 
chances are that some of his foes will kiss the dust 
first. It is understood that he has already winged 
one or two deadly assassins who attempted his 
life. 

But nominal wages are paid as a rule in this por- 
tion of the Turkish Empire. Mr. "Walker stated that 
four and five cents a duv >V!IR all that the natives 



204 MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 

received. Even blacksmiths were paid no more. 
The Stamford Companji' j)ays about fiftj cents for a 
day's labor, which seems to tlie im230verished people 
a small fortune. Laborers will, with comparative 
ease, carry from four to five hundred pounds on their 
backs, about a camel's load. The Euphrates is the 
Mississippi or IN^ile of the region, furnishing in niany 
ways much of the scanty employment to be found. 
The river is navigable for eleven hundred miles and 
is eighteen hundred miles in length. 

From Alexandretta to Latakia the sail was eighty 
miles more. On the coast the spot is pointed out 
where Jonah was cast ashore b}^ the fish that had 
swallowed him. Much of tlie entire coast-line is tame 
and uninteresting, though the exceedingly quiet sea 
and distant mountain ranges serve to render the trip 
a delight in other respects. AYe passed near battle-fields 
famous in history, where Alexander and Darius met 
in their memoi'able and deadly engagement, and near 
the line of march of the fanatical and undisciplined 
crusaders, together with many other noteworthy locali- 
ties. After receiving more freight and passengers, 
spending a few hours, we hasten on. An attempt to 
land our party was abandoned, as the Avilj^ Turkish 
oflicial wished to take all the passports with him, 
which would have caused a needless delay and served 
as a pretext for exacting additional and illegal fees. 



JfV J'TL'XhT TO JERL SALEM. 205 

Lariiaca, on the Isle of Cyprus, seemed a heautifnl 
l)lace from the decks of our steamei-. But lone 
tramps over its liot roads, tlirougli beds of white dust 
which covered iields and travelers alike, speedily dis- 
pelled the pleasing illusion. Ende stone houses and 
walls of the eternal grayish-Avhite reflected the merci- 
less rays of the sun. P]ver and anon a tall palm-tree 
nodded us a welcome, or huge cacti securely guarded 
groves of oranges and lemons from our presumptuous 
approach. At a wayside refreshment room forty 
cents were paid for two glasses of lemonade by mem- 
bers of our party within one hundred yards possibly 
of the spot where the lemons grew. 

Since 1881 the island has been under British rule, 
and the Cross of St. (4eoi'ge seemed a gratifying curi- 
osity on the soil so long ground under the iron heel 
of Turkish misrule and oppression. Its ac(piisition 
by England was a pet measure of Loi'd Beaconslield, 
and was accomplished during his pivmiei-ship. Im- 
provements already are inaugurated which will l)e in- 
definitely ex])anded in the near future. The natives 
do not take kindly to the change, and disi)lay a sub- 
dued restlessness in the matter. A vast amount of 
wheat W' as added to our already lai'ge cargo, besides a 
number of beef cattle. Ko])es were fastened around 
the horns of the animals, by means of which the steam 
windlass hoisted them struggling on deck. Cyprus 



206 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

exports wlieat, oats, barley, wine, oil, lemons, ligs, 
olives, and cotton in moderate quantities. Its imports 
include a long line of " Yankee notions," besides 
flour, clothing, and hardware. 

The island is cursed Math fleas, sandflies, and locusts. 
Aromatic herbs, tobacco, silk, dye-woods, drugs, mad- 
der, fine qualities of wine, and a variety of fruits are 
easily produced. A long walk brought us to the 
cathedral, with no points of exceptional interest ex- 
cepting an exhibition of the reputed grave of Laza- 
rus. Since several other sites claim to hold his ashes, 
our enthusiasm was less pronounced than it might 
otherwise have been. 

Tripoli loomed up before us on Sunday morning. 
Some of the party went ashore for two hours. It is 
fifty miles from Beyrut and about one hundred from 
Damascus. It has several mosques, orange groves, 
and produces a large quantity of silk, wood, tobacco, 
wax, soap, sponges, galls, and cochineal. Besides the 
cultivation of the soil, much attention is paid to fish- 
ing, the finny beauties being caught in an exceed- 
ingly primitive manner. 



MY JOUHXEY TO JERUSALEM. 207 



CHAPTER XI. 

Bkykut. — Camping Touk Bkgins. — American Collkoe. — 
First Night ix Palestine. — Change of Plan. — My 
Lonely Jaunt to Jerusalem. 

" Thy river, O Kishon, is swcepiiig aloug 

Where Canaauite strove with Jehovah in vain. 

And thy torrents grew dark with the blood of the shiin." 

LATE on Sunday afteiwioun our steamer dropped 
anchor a mile off tlie shore in the beautiful har- 
bor of Beyrut, As nsual Turkish neglect had per- 
mitted the channel to iill up, while a mob of howling 
Arab boatmen climbed to the deck in pursuit of pas- 
sengers. Since onr arrangements had all been pre- 
viously made, we were soon taken through a choppy 
sea which pi'oduced more nauseating synijitoms than 
many days in mid-ocean had done. 

Amid a babel of contending \oices we Avasted an 
hour in the custom-house while porters, boatmen, and 
other unwashed creatures thumped and pushed us in 
their mad rush for luggage and piasti-es. 

Night closed in around us before we reached the 
comfortable New Hotel, kept by a kind, English- 
speaking Turkish landlord. He was clad in the 

national costume, as were all the servants. A royal 
u 



208 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



dinner and a good niglit's rest closed onr ocean trips 
for a season. Many regrets were expressed by mem- 
bers of our party that no time existed for Adsiting 
the celebrated American college and other noted 




THE CAMPING TOUR. 



places in Beyrut, since an eleven days' camping 
torn- was to begin early the following morning. 

Before leaving, however, personally, I had a brief 
interview with Di". ]>liss, president of the institution, 



MY JOUnXEY TO JERUSALEM. 209 

whom I found to be a dignified, genial, and cultivated 
gentleman. The college is a grand success. 

The camping tour at Beyrut began at an early hour. 
J.ong: before the dawn of dav a babel of voices was 
distinctly heard beneath our hotel windows, proceed- 
ing from Arab drivers, dragomen, and servants of 
Narious descriptions. Added to this Avere the paw- 
ing and stamping of fifty horses, Avith occasional 
wliinneying from the poor beasts, which made it quite 
obvious that sleep for that night at least had " gone 
where the woodbine twineth." 

Having from my boyhood been an early riser, sel- 
dom sleeping beyond four A, M., I at length arose, 
dressed, and packed my luggage for the long tour of 
eleA'en days that stretched out before us over hot 
roads and dizzy precipices. After a hasty breakfast 
the horn* for starting arrived. With some delay, and 
a few mistakes, the tourists getting on to wrong 
horses, with a little jealousy on the part of one or 
two, who supi3osed that the best horses had been ap- 
projDriated by other members of the party, we slowly 
wound our way out of the cpiaint old city of Beyrut. 
The long cavalcade of Protestant pilgrims presented, 
I dare say, a grotesque if not a bewildering ap- 
pearance to the natives. Some of the party were 
exceedingly tall ; others were less than medium 
height. One wore a linen duster, with a faded um- 



210 MY JO URXEY TO JER USA LEM. 

brella under his iinii ; a few had legghigs, while one 
gentleman made the entire trip with a pocket hand- 
kerchief fluttering over his face and neck. To give 
njy personal ex])erience : 

I had dreaded the camping feature for months prior 
to our departure from home. I knew nothing of 
liorsehack riding. A fe^v times, when a boy, I had 
ridden a short distance on the back of the old farm 
horse. Now I am mounted on a spirited Arabian 
steed. Mr. Rolla Floyd, my pei-sonal and esteemed 
friend — the most noted dragoman in Palestine, who es- 
corted General Grant and party during his memorable 
visit in Palestine — had chosen the best horse that 
could be had — a good walker and loper. The animals 
are all " tender bitted," we are told, so we must carry a 
slack rein. We are to speak to them in Aral)ic, but 
discover that learning the language during an excep- 
tionally hot morning on the back of the brute are not 
the most favorable conditions under which the task 
might be accomplished. A faint, dizzy feeling crept 
over me, due in part to the half sea-sick condition 
produced while landing in the small Arab boat from 
the steamer the niglit previous, the lack of sleep, the 
heat of the morning, and my nervousness in learning 
to ride on the back of a strange Arabian horse. The 
caravan was out of sight, though we were still within 
the city. All efforts to guide the quadruped through 



.\rY JOlfnXKT To JERCSALE.U. 



2H 



the ineagtT lesson g-iveii me proved fruitless. Feel- 
ing a decided disinclination to have eleven days of 
such a mockery for happiness while on a so-called 
"pleasure tour" — knowing that the intense heat would 
he almost unhearahle at mid-day — I dismounted and 
decided to abandon the camping tour altogether. The 




VIKW OK BKYKUT. 



dragoman wished to fasten my horse to the one he 
rode, and so keep him with the caravan, but I de- 
clined peremptorily to go under any circnrastnnces. 

After sending word concerning my change of pur- 
pose to our party, I spent the day in visiting the 
bazaars and other points of interest in Beyrut, and 
sailed at five P. M. for Jaffa (ancient Joppa) by the 



2l2 MY JOUiiNEY TO JERt'SALint. 

French steamer which brought us in the city the 
night previous. Mr. Rolla Floyd accompanied me. 
He resides at Jaffa, and I was to be his guest for 
three days. 

The Presbyterian cemetery in the city contains the 
mortal remains of Bishop Calvin Kingsley, of the 
Methodist Episcopal Church. He died suddenly of 
disease of the heart while on an official tour to our 
foreign missionary fields, " wherever dispersed about 
the globe," April 16, 18Y0. 

We reached Jaifa at sunrise the following morning. 
In a few moments, as if by magic, a flotilla of small 
boats surrounded the steamer, which fairly swarmed 
with bawling, swarthy, and gesticulating Arabs in 
pursuit of passengers. Though these steamers " book 
you" to Beyrnt, Jaifa, and other ports, they anchor 
one and two miles from shore, and you are to land 
yourself on the best terms that can be made witli 
these ravenous reptiles. Up the sides of the steamer 
they run like so many wharf -rats or Algerine pirates, 
hand over hand by any piece of roj^e that happens to 
hang from the vessel. One of them attempted it be- 
fore some ship formality had been disposed of, when 
an officer of the steamer belabored the noisy, defiant 
fellow so lustily with a " rope's end " that he was 
glad to retreat to his boat. 

The crew drew handspikes and the officers were 



MY .lornXEY TV .IKRVSALEM. 



213 



armed witli various weapons as tlie comrades of tlie 
intruder made another attempt, and for a few mct- 
ments it looked qiiite like a veritable battle "witli 
])irates. Finally the storm abated. The steamer 
pai-ty won. Permission was given when the red-tape 




BISHOf KISGSI.EY S MONTMEXT. 



had been cut, and soon the vessel was alive with a 
swaggering mob of l)nllj'ing boatmen, who seized 
luggage Avithout permission and sought to compel 
passengers to accompany them to tlie shore. 

A noisy crowd surrounded Mr. Rolla Floyd, yell- 
ins; wildlv for some time with clinched fists and 



214 -^^y JoirRNi:Y to ji^rusal^m. 

swaying arms like so many murderous maniacs. At, 
length, fearing my friend might be in some danger, 
not knowing what was said, as the language was 
Arabic, of which 1 could speak only a few words, I 
inquired : 

" Mr. Floyd, what is the matter ? " 

"These boatmen,'' answered he, "say that this 
woman" — pointing to an intelligent and modest ap- 
pearing lady near him — " has got to go with them in 
their boat, and if she does not go willingly that they 
will compel her to go. She has asked me to take her 
ashore in my boat, and does not want to go with 
them at all." 

Plunging my hand into an inner pocket of my 
waistcoat I sprang before the mob, trying as much as 
possible to simulate indignation if not anger, and pro- 
duced my passport. I had learned before that bold- 
ness was the only way to deal with an Arab. If you 
weaken either your cause, money, or life are at stake. 

" Gentlemen," I shouted, sternly, " I am an Amer- 
ican citizen. Do you see that," said I, pointing to 
the seal of the United States government and vise of 
the Turkish consul at Pirseus. 

" Yes," said one of them who understood English ; 
" we do. It is a teschcaris," the Turkish terra for 
passport. 

" You are quite right," I answered ; " it is a tesch- 



Mr Journey to j£!RVtiALEM. 215 

caris, and I am," I repeated, '' an American citizen. 
Now," I continued, making as much bluster as pos- 
sible, " the first man among you that lays a hand on 
tliat woman must settle with me," jumping up and 
down and gesticulating wildly to impress them with 
my earnestness. 

The M'ords employed by me were translated into 
Arabic b}- one of their number, but witli a strong 
amendment. 

" This man," said he, as Mr. Floyd informed me 
later, " is an American, and he says that if any of you 
touch that woman he will have you put in jail within 
twenty-four hours." 

Certainly this was an important addition, but the 
medicine proved efficacious. One by one, like the 
accusing Jews who wished to stone to deatli the trem- 
bling M'oman in the presence of Jesus, they scattered, 
until all were gone. Mr. Floyd conducted the lady, 
who was a teacher in a German school near Jerusa- 
lem, and myself to his residence in triumph. Since 
it had proved entirely too small to accommodate all 
the tourists who desired to board with him a few 
days in going to or from Jerusalem, he has been 
compelled to build the "Palestine Hotel" nearby, 
where abundant room and an excellent table and bed 
are furnished at very low rates. 

Mr. Floyd came to Jaffa with an American colony 




SKJl Of GALILEE. 



MY JOUllXEY TO jmiUSALE.U. 1\1 

of one liinulred and fifty-three persons in 1866, or- 
ganized under the direction of Bishop G. J. Adams, 
looking for the second conung of Clu'ist. The date 
chosen, like thousands of others selected since tlu.' 
days of the apostles, proved delusive. Financial dis- 
aster at length overtook the colony ; hesides, the cli- 
mate was oppressively hot for natives of Maine. 

Subsequently, the entire property, consisting of 
some seventeen cottages, framed and prepared in 
Maine, was disposed of to a few thrifty and enterpris- 
ing Germans, who still remain. INFr. Floyd alone is 
left of the original American colon}-, his residence 
being the same built by him in 1866. 

Mr. Floyd has probaldy no equal in knowledge of 
Bible lands. The Rev. Dr. Theodore L. Cuyler, Joseph 
Cook, General Grant, Hon. S. S. Cox, and a long list 
of other nr)tcd travelers freely testify to this fact. 
He is a fine specimen of American manhood, and 
weighs fully two hundred and twenty-five pounds. 
Affable, obliging, and strictly honest in all his work, 
he is in great demand by American visitors espe- 
cially. Dr. Cuyler freely declares that " Mr. Floyd 
knows evciy inch of the sacred soil better than any 
living man." 

He is much crippled in his business by the narrow- 
ness of Turkish and of some United States officials, 
as well as by tlie friction of a rival tourist company. 



218 Mt JOUkNEY TO JEliliSALmr. 

The prompt dispersion of tlie mob on tlie French 
steamer, ah-eady described, was due in part doubtless 
to a wholesome lesson taught the imbecile and slowly 
dying Turkish government a few years ago by an 
American man-of-war. 

A party of highwaymen attacked Mr. Floyd one 
dark night on a lonely road, demanding his money or 
his life. He was on horseback, armed only with a 
stout cudgel. His response was prompt and final. 
Quick as lightning he gave one ruffian a terrific blo\v 
on the head, and putting spurs to his horse escaped. 
The would-be robber and assassin fell to the earth. 
He was conveyed to his home by his confederates, and 
subsequently died from the effects of the blow given 
by Mr. Floyd in self-defense. 

A brother of the dead man, undeterred by the well- 
deserved fate of his relative, determined to seek re- 
venge and punish Mr. Floyd. So, waiting for a fa- 
vorable opportunity, he came up secretly behind him 
and dealt his unsuspecting victim a severe blow upon 
the head with a club. Though partially stunned. Mi'. 
Floyd quickly turned, when another blow aimed at 
his skull fell upon his shoulder. Grappling with his 
cowardly assailant, he threw him to the ground, giv- 
ing him a severe beating, and tearing nearly all the 
clothes off of the desperado in the struggle. Now 
he turned him over to the dilatory Turk for pun- 



J/r JO URXEY TO JER U SALEM. 2 1 9 

ishnieiit. Weeks, iiioiitlis even, passed, and yet to 
i^ratify some secret foes of Mr. Floyd tlie fellow was 
not brought to trial. Finally an American man-of- 
war chanced to enter the harbor of Jaffa while on an 
extensive cruise. Immediately a great consternation 
seized the minds of the local Turkish authorities. By 
some means the state of affairs and history of the case 
reached the captain of the American ship of war. 
He was prompt and resolute. 

Donning his handsome uniform, he was rowed 
ashore, when he proceeded at once to the officials and 
informed them that " unless the assailant of Mr. Floyd 
was tried and sentenced within twenty-four hours he 
should i^roceed to shell the city." 

New life characterized the action of the drowsy 
and snail-like officers of the Turkish government. 
Court was opened, witnesses examined, and before 
the sun sank below the waters of the blue Mediter- 
ranean the prisoner was pronounced guilty, fined 
$500, and sentenced to two years in jail, to remain 
until that amount was paid. Though sentence was 
immediately can-ied out, and the two years have long 
since elapsed, the culprit is still in jail, being wholl}^ 
unable to pay the fine. 

Of course, the action of the captain of the man-of- 
war was entirely illegal and unauthorized. Still, in 
coping with the crafty and tardy Turkish official the 



220 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 



average xiinericaii will rejoice over the result, even 
though done without adequate legal authority. 

The heat of Jaffa was almost nnbearable. A siroc- 
co from the desert, like a furnace of lire, swe^^t over 
Palestine a few days before our party arrived; making 




A CAKATAN. 



the atmosphere exceedingly oppressive to unacclimated 
Americans. Much of the summer, I was informed, the 
M'eather had been exceptionally cook Of course, the 
cam23ing party felt its full effects, though efforts were 
made to adopt the Oriental practice of starting very 



J/r JO URXE Y TO JER USA L EM. 221 

carlv ill the iiioniiiig hefure the sun had risen, and 
have long halts at camping places during the torrid 
niid-daj heat. 

Few objects of interest exi.st in Jaffa aside from 
tlie narroM' streets crowded with camels and donkeys, 
the small, dingy bazaars, and the surging native popu- 
lation in their showy Oriental costume. The house 
of Simon the tanner is always visited, since the scene 
of the transaction described in Acts is situated at 
this place. Here the apostle Peter was tarrying when 
the divine command caine to Cornelius, the centurion 
of the Italian band, " Send therefore to Joppa, and call 
hither Simon, whose surname is Peter ; he is lodged 
in the house of one Simon a tanner l)y the sea-side : 
M-ho, Avhen he cometh, shall speak unto thee" (Acts 
10. 32). 

The building is a small one-story structure ; but nu 
one believes it to be the original house, though it proba- 
bly occupies the same site. It has a flat roof witli no 
Avail to screen one from the gazers of the street, as in 
the prevailing style of ai-chitectiire in the East. On 
the ground floor a mosque is located, which is never 
used during the time when tourists usually arrive, as 
their feet are supposed to defile the building, a tent 
near by meantime being used for a place of M'orship. 
I visited the spot twice, the second time with the 
remainder of our party after the completion of the 



222 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

caiiipiug toLii*. Brief religions services were lield on 
tlie top of the lioiise, including prayer by the E,ev. Will- 
iam Portens, of St. Lonis, closing with old " Corona- 
tion " and the benediction. Tanners still ply their 
trade in the neighborhood, and a stone vat at a near- 
by pump is believed to have been in use in St. Peter's 
day. 

All attempts to drink the water evoked a deter- 
mined and demonstrative resistance on the part of 
our stomachs. It was generally believed by us that 
the water was better adapted for tanning purposes, 
when the skins of dead animals are used, tlian to sat- 
isfy the thirst of American tourists, who come from a 
land proverbial for the purity of its springs and 
wells. 

From Joppa Jonah fled before the face of the 
Lord when commanded to preach at Nineveh, as 
recorded in Jonah 1. 1-3 : " ISTow the word of the 
Lord came unto Jonah son of Amittai, saying, Arise, 
go to Nineveh, that great city, and cry against it ; for 
their wickedness is come up before me. But Jonah 
rose up to flee unto Tarshish from the presence of 
the Lord, and went down to Jo2:)pa; and he found 
a ship going to Tarshish : so he jjaid the fare thereof, 
and went down into it, to go with thiem unto Tarshish 
from the ]3resence of the Lord." 

In this city also Dorcas, that toiler for the poor, 



MY JOURNEY TO JERV SALEM. 223 

was raised to life by St. Peter. .Joi)pa, or Jaffa, is 
probably the oldest city on earth, having been built, 
in the opinion of very many scholars, long before 
either Damascus or Jerusalem. The city has been 
captured and pillaged tliree times — by Caliph Omar, 
A. D. 636; by the crusaders, A. D. 1090; and by 
Napoleon I., March, 1799. The story that Napoleon 
butchered three thousand eight hundred prisoners of 
war at this spot is regarded as apochryphal by com- 
petent and disinterested judges. An earthquake de- 
molished the city in January, 1837, which resulted in 
the loss of thirteen thousand lives. 

After three days spent at the delightful and hos- 
pitable home, of Mr. Rolla Floyd I took a seat in an 
old-fashioned stage-coach for Jerusalem. It started 
at five P. M., and would not arrive at the Holy City 
until half-past seven o'clock the next morning. A 
dismal and lonely feeling pressed upon my spirits 
when I found that my ti'aveling comjjanions were all 
Arabs, who knew no word of English. They were 
apparently poor peasants, but civil and well behaved 
enough, however. Three horses were used, but the 
road, to my surprise, was a good one. After leaving 
Jaffa it was as smooth as a floor. Were it not for 
the white dust produced by the dry season the ride 
would have been much more of a satisfaction than it 

was. 

1.-) 



224 JfT JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

A long line of orange groves is passed a mile or 
so after leaving the city. It is past sunset, and the 
deepening twilight makes the trees seem like ghosts 
or concealed robbers skulking behind the ugl}' and 
cheerless fence of cacti whicli serves to protect the 
precious fruit in some measure from the incursions of 
thieves. Had time permitted, a short ramble among 
the trees would have been pleasant, although the 
oranges would not reach maturity until December, 
two months later. 

Yast plains many miles in extent lay before us, un- 
til at last we approached "the hill-country of Judea," 
where the Yirgin Mary abode after the announce- 
ment made to her by tlie angel Gabriel concerning 
the birth of Jesus. It seemed a wild, desolate, rocky 
region, and, during the dry season especially, nearly 
destitute of trees or foliage. The route stretches 
across the immense plain of Sharon and through the 
historic valley of Ajalon. 

Three stops were made to rest the horses between 
Jaffa and Jerusalem, ranging from one to two hours 
in duration. Some of the passengers took bedding 
from the stage, brought with them for the pm-pose, 
and lay down by the road-side while the halts were 
being made. Others wrapped themselves up in their 
abiah, or flowing striped cloak worn day and night 
throughout the year, and courted the god Morpheus. 



M V JO rJiXLT TO JER USALEM. 225 

Personally, I was wlioUy unable to keep warm, es- 
pecially in the hours past midnight, when it was the 
coolest. All my luggage was on the backs of .horses 
making the camping tour from Bey rut to Jerusalem, 
including my woolen tourist shirt and light overcoat. 
As the day was intensely hot when I began that jour- 
ney so soon abandoned, as already related, I had di- 
vested myself of all underwear except a gauze shirt, 
Avearing a thin summer coat, as my vest buttoned to 
ni}' necktie. Yigorous eiforts were consequently re- 
(juired to avoid taking cold. At the halting places, 
and also while the stage was creeping u]) the stee]) 
gradients of " the hill-country," I walked raj)idly 
and swung my arms almost incessantly to keep the 
blood in circulation. 

At one station a passenger in another stage bound 
in the same direction, also making a long midnight 
halt, called me by name. Astonished that any one 
seven thousand miles from home should know me, 
I responded. It proved to be a Mr. Brooks, of Stam- 
ford, Conn., who was making a journey around the 
M'orld, and Avas joined at Cairo, Egypt, subsequently, 
bv Mr. C. X. Crittenton, of New York city, one of 
our party. He had traveled from Smyrna to Bey- 
rut with us, though indejjendently, by the French 
steamer. It was two o'clock in the morning when 
Ave met. 



226 



MY JOURXEY TO JERVSALEJf. 



Black coffee in cups lioldiiig not more than tliree 
or four tliiuiblefuls was sold at a lu'gli price to the 
passengers in waiting. I ventured to accept a cup of 




TOWER OF RAMLEH. 



nioiyeh, the Arab's term for water, which was of- 
fered me. It was so tepid and vile in taste and odor 
that 1 could only take a sip or two to wash the dust 
out of mj throat, " Backsheesh," said the Arab, 



.UY JOURXEY TO JEUUtiALKM. ^27 

who Stood before nie in fnll Oriental costume. I had 
notliing smaller than a half franc, about \^\\ cents, 
which I handed to liim. "Thank you," he replied 
in fair English, and pocketed the coin. I reflected 
that from all indications dirty drinking-water Avas 
certainly held at a liigh price, and had my curiosity 
aroused to learn tlie commercial value of pure water. 
One halt was at Ramleh, about twenty miles from 
Jerusalem, and another at Kirjath-jearim. The 
tower of Ramleli, built by the crusaders, is an object 
of interest. Expansive and extended views of that 
portion of the Holy Land are afforded from its sum- 
mit in the day time. 

On our journey we pass near the site of the five 
cities of the Philistines, visible from the tower— 
Ashdod, Gaza, Gath, Giniso, and Lydda. The scene 
of Samson's exploits is situated near our pathway, 
also where Dagon fell before the ai-k of God, besides 
the scene of Da^-id's duel with Goliath. Mount Car- 
mel and other distant and noteworthy locaKties are 
also distinctly visible. 

All through the long dreary night we passed long 
lines of camels laden with heavy burdens, including 
immense pieces of timber, long ii^n columns, and 
other severe loads. The poor, patient beasts carry 
them safely up and down the steep hills, and when 
they lie down on the journey the burden is not re- 



228 MY JOUnXEY TO JERUSALEM. 

moved. Arabs, inoiiiited on dwarfish donkeys, 
passed and repassed, also, as the night wore a\vay, 
like so many wandering gliosis. The sky was cloud- 
less, and niyi'iads of stars twinkled in silent grandeur 
above us as we slowly wound our way among the 
solemn and majestic mountains to the far-famed city 
of Jerusalem. 



MY JO UltHtEY TO JER U SALEM. 229 



CHAPTER XII. 

First Impressions. — Thk American F.v.Nfii.Y. — Sight-seeino 
Within and Around the W.u.i.s.— (tEthskmane. — The 
Mount ok Olives. — Bethany. — Bethf-ehem. — The Mosque 
OF Omar. — >[oderx Buit-dinos, Etc. 

"If I forget tliee, O Jerusalem, let my right haud forget its 
cunning. If I do not remember thee, let my tongue cleave to 
the roof of my mouth ; if I prefer not .Jerusalem above my chief 
joy." 

MOKNING finally dawned. Faint streaks of 
light in the east betokened the coming of the 
tieiy god of day. We are Hearing Jerusalem. 
Slowly we ascend the mountain that marks her 
western boundary. Now the blue mountains of 
Moab are distinctly seen on the distant horizon, 
feathery and dreamy, seemingly the happy home of 
some celestial poet or other favored inhabitant. Sud- 
denly we are at Jerusalem, without the w^alls. Owing 
to our gradual ascent of the holy hill the view has 
been hidden and far less impressive than the approach 
from the east over the Mount of Olives. ]\[odern 
buildings mostly are manifest, while others are in 
process of construction. The lumbering, dirty stage 
stops. A Turkish soldier from a sentry-box ap- 



230 ^^y JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

proaclies us, and passports are in demand. Happily, 
mine is in my pocket, and not on the back of a pack- 
horse with my luggage wandering over distant and 
dizzy precipices. It is critically examined. Since it 
is in dne form, with a Turkish vise attached, there is 
no possibility for "backsheesh" to be wrung out of 
the sleepy and way-worn traveler. 

Escorted by a gnide I am conducted on foot 
through the Jaifa gate to the " American family," as 
it is called. No wheeled vehicles enter the walls of 
the Holy City, burdens and passengers being con- 
veyed on the backs of donkeys and camels. ISTarrow 
streets are found, about the width of the average side- 
walk, and yet destitute of separate pathway for pedes- 
trians, while small dingy shops or bazaars abound. 
Little variety is found, as one must go to separate 
stores for nearly every article. In the streets, crowded 
with passing camels, donkeys, and pedestrians, the 
purchaser stands, or sits on his heels to select the 
goods. ]S"o one enters the small store or booth, as a 
I'ule, besides the propi"ietor or clerk. A very few 
establishments of recent origin are larger. 

When the call for prayer is given from the minaret 
the Mohammedan merchant drops a netting down in 
front of his stock of goods, without locking or shut- 
ting doors, and goes away to worshij). His bitterest 
enemy is not mean enough to molest any thing. If a 



MY JOURXEY TO JKRUBALEM. ^Si 

customer chances to come and wishes an article of 
merchandise from his stock, the nearest merchant 
glances toward him and he leaves the monej^, taking 
the goods, the cash being undisturbed until the de- 
vout Mohammedan returns. Surely, here is primi- 
tive simplicity'. It would be difficult to parallel it in 
Christian lands. 

The " Americans," as they are styled, greeted me 
pleasantly, and stated with a genial welcome that " my 
I'oom was ready for me.'' About eighteen or twenty 
persons are now included in this Christian home. 
Holding peculiar views possibly regarding the second 
coming of Christ, and the importance for some Chris- 
tians, at least, to be at Jerusalem to illustrate his 
teachings by a godly life, they have for more than 
eight years walked by faith, and, like their divine 
Lord, go " about doing good." Jcav, Gentile, Turk, 
or Arab are treated with equal courtesy. From lim- 
ited resources they entertain frequent guests, never 
accepting payment, though oiferings subsequently 
made for their missionary work are never declined. 
The loathsome lepers of the valley and sunny slopes 
of Jehoshaphat have received frequent and timely aid 
from them. Sick people, even those with small-pox, 
have been nui-sed by this devoted people back to 
health again. 

A colony of one hundred and thirty poor Jews 



J/ } ' JO I 'liXEY TO JER VHALEM. 233 

recently arrived at Jerusalem, drawn, as tliej believed, 
l)y some inspired impulse suggesting the immediate 
restoration of their i-ace. In their abject poverty the 
"Americans" provided for their wants. Armed 
Ai-abs from the desert have visited the '• Americans" 
in a body and divested themselves voluntarily of their 
arms, which is never the case elsewhere in their inter- 
course with society. In return the "Americans" 
have accepted the hospitalities of the Bedouin, going 
long journeys under the protection of an armed es- 
cort furnished by the children of Ishmael. Then 
barbecues have followed, whole animals being stuffed 
with rice, cooked in an appetizing style, with a great 
variety of other Arabic dishes, while numerous serv- 
ants sought to anticipate their every wish. After 
several days spent in this manner the family have been 
politely escorted to their home in Jerusalem, which 
is situated near the Damascus gate, and includes a 
portion of the northern wall of the city. 

Turkish and American ofticials also visit them, as 
do many tourists from England, America, and other 
countries. Bishop Yincent during his recent tour be- 
came familiar with their work, being their guest for a 
short time. He has since recorded his impressions of 
them in the public press. It is inspiring in this de- 
generate age to see how much good a single family 
with a lofty purpose can achieve for suffering human- 



S34 MY JOURNEY TO JERUBALM. 

ity, even under adverse circninstances. Death lias 
thinned out their ranks since thej first entered the 
Holy City. Mr. H. G. Spafford, author of tlie poiDii- 
lar hymn, " It is Well with My Soul," was the leader 
of the movement. His widow is still a member of 
the household, and j)ossesses a cultivated mind and a 
devoted Christian lieai-t. The utmost harmony pre- 
vails in the family circle, all laboring to accomplish 
the greatest possible amount of good. One member 
of the family is a native of Boston, a Mr. Fuller. 
Though more than seventy years of age, he toils daily 
as a carpenter for the outside world, where his serv- 
ices are in demand, without accepting remuneration. 
A^arious articles are manufacture, such as chairs, 
bureaus, tables, etc., though no payment is de- 
manded. Subsequent donations for their missionary 
operations, as we have already stated, are not declined. 
The family conduct divine worship daily at half-past 
ten A. M., which usually continues until noon. They 
are excellent singers, and their voices would be popu- 
lar even in concert-halls, should they consent to sing 
in public. During my visit Professor Gilman, United 
States Consul at Jerusalem, and several Turkish offi- 
cers took tea with them, and spent an evening in 
social intercourse. 

With this devoted people I spent an entire week, 
while waiting for my party to come in from the camp' 



.V V JO URXEY TO JER L 'SALEM. 235 

ing tour to the Sea of Galilee, the Jordan, and else- 
where. Members of the family escorted me to all the 
prominent points of interest within and without the 
walls of Jerusalem. Mr. William H. Rudy, Mr. Her- 
bert Drake, Mr. Page, and " Jacob " were exceedingly 
courteous and helpful in this particular. May the 
good work of this family long continue ! 

From Mr. Herbert Drake, a member of the 
*• American family," the following communication 
was received about seven months after my arrival in 
the United States. Besides describing the primitive 
mode of harvesting the crops, it also shows that the 
grading of the long-talked-of railway, alluded to on 
another page, has finally begun, and furnishes nmch 
other interesting and valuable information : 

'*■ Jerusalem, June 7, 1890. 
''ToRev.N.HiMell: 

'* Dear Sir : It is a very late date to acknowledge 
and thank you for your kindness in sending to us the 
Xew York Weekly Witness, but, though late, we do 
thank you most heartily now. 

" Perhaps it will interest you to know how things 
have been progressing in this city and country since 
your visit here in the fall. "We have had a very good 
season, including a good later rain, which you may 
know is very necessary for a fruitful year. The mar- 
ket is accordingly now well stocked with different 



236 JfV JOl'h'XEV TO JERrSALEM. 

kinds of fruit and vegetables. These products seem lo 
increase annually as more and more land is brought 
under cultivation. The Jaffa gate (the gate, you may 
remember, on the Avest side of the city, at the com- 
mencement of the Jaffa road) presents a very ani- 
mated appearance in the early mornings at this time 
of the year, with the crowds of donkeys, fellaheen, 
etc., passing through laden with the products of the 
villages for the Jerusalem market. We are now, too, 
in the midst of grain harvest, which this year is 
exceptionally good. The wheat is cheaper this year 
tha]) lias been known for many years past. The coun- 
try presents a fine sight now, with its extensive fields 
of ripe grain, looking very different from the view 
that met your eyes in the fall of the year. The in- 
struments used for reaping are us primitive as those 
used in plowing. The same shnple sickle is still seen 
as was probably employed in the time of the patri- 
archs, which is frequently mejitioned in the Bible. 

'' It is a very pretty sight, however, to see the har- 
vest reaped in this way. After it is cut, the grain is 
loaded on donkeys and taken off to the threshing- 
floors, where it is trodden out, us of old, by the foot 
of the ox or the ass. 

" The wonderful movement among the Jews draw- 
ing them and attracting them toward their native 
land still continues. Jerusalem has just been visited 



M r JO URyEY TO .TEE USA LEM. 237 

by some rich and influential Jews (so we are told), 
the object of whose visit was to inspect and see if 
there was any favorable opening for additional Jew- 
ish colonization. 

'• There is at the present time a Jewisli rabbi from 
.Vustralia here, who is inspecting the JeNvish colonies 
with a view to reporting on their condition in En- 
gland and Australia, either encouraging or discourag- 
ing emigi-ation of Jews to this country, according to 
the condition in which he finds them. These move- 
ments, even if they do not produce any dii-ect imme- 
diate results, are yet in themselves indicators of an 
aroused feeling and desire awakened among the Jews 
scattered abroad toward the land of their forefathers. 

'' It was only quite lately that a large piece of land, 
capable, we were told, of maintaining four hundred 
families, was bought by the Jews near Jaffa. This 
piece lay between two other Jewish colonies, thus 
connecting them and forming with them one large 
tract. 

" Some of the colonies seem to be rapidly progress- 
ing. In the colonies in the vicinity of Jaffa they 
say that there are three million vines planted by the 
Jews. We hear of a most extensive wine-cellar being 
l)iiilt in one of the colonies at the present time at the 
cost of fifty thousand francs. 

" In one of the colonies they luu^e been planting out 




VIA DOLOROSA. 



JfV JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 239 

this past seaiion Imndreds of niulbeiTy-trees with a 
view to raising silk, and Baron Rothschild has also 
expressed a wish to have cotton raised. 

" This possession and occupation by the Jews of the 
soil of their forefathers, and its reclamation from bar- 
renness to fertility by their hands, speak loudly to us 
of our being on the threshold of a new time, spoken 
of both in the Old and New Testaments, the set time 
for the Lord to favor Zion, when the curse that has 
80 long lain on both land and people is to be removed, 
and his blessing and favor again rest on them. 

"Have you heard that the long-talked-of railroad 
has been at last commenced I The work was formally 
commenced on April 1. Up to the present time the 
force of workmen employed on the road has not 
been very great, but still some work has been accom- 
plished. We hear of the engineers being busily oc- 
cupied on their plans. The undertaking is in the 
hands of a French company. They have commenced 
operations from the Jaffa end of the road. The site 
for the depots at Jaffa and Jerusalem is kept a pro- 
found secret. Its commencement at the Jaffa end is 
north of the present high-road from Jaffa to Jerusa- 
lem. It crosses the road, perhaps, about half-way be- 
tween Jaffa and the mountains, and continues from 
that point on the south side the whole of the remain- 
ing length of the plain. 
16 



240 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

" The valleys through which the railway is to as- 
cend the mountainous country form a gradual ascent 
from the plain of Sharon to the level of Jerusalem, 
terminating in the plain of Rephaim. You will thus 
see that it will run close past the German colony, 
and the depot may be somewhere in the vicinity of 
the upper pool of Gihon ; but, as I said before, this is 
kept a secret. 

" Much work was done on the new Jericho road 
during the fall and winter. At times, it is said, there 
Avas a force of one thousand men at work on it. I 
dare say you remember enough of the country be- 
tween Jei'usalem and Jericho to understand that this 
would be a big job. One can now ride on a carriage 
out to Bethany, and I believe a pi^ce of the road is 
completed at the Jericho end, but the sections be- 
tween the two extremities are in a more or less unfin- 
ished condition, and there will be a good deal of 
work to be done yet before it is completed. They 
don't do this kind of work in the summer, partly, I 
suppose, on account of the heat, and partly because 
there is much work to be done by the peasants at 
home in connection with harvest, etc. 

" In Jerusalem itself there is a good deal of build- 
ing going on within the limits marked out in Jer. 
xxxi, 38-40, and Zech. xiv, 10. There are houses 
being built for Jews, and there is a scheme projected 



MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 241 

for building two hundred houses for Jews on the 
Montefiore property near the lower pool of Gihou on 
the west side of the city. One hundred of these will 
be for the Sephardim (Spanish Jews), and one hun- 
dred for the Ashkenazim (Polish Jews). There is 
preparation for considerable alteration and improve- 
ment in the Russian grounds and buildings. They 
intend providing accommodations more extensive 
than at present. They have made a grand entrance 
through the north wall of the old property, connect- 
ing this with the grand new hospice, and I hear they 
intend to make also a similar entrance on the south 
side, connecting the two with a drive. They also 
seem to be making preparations to enlarge the great 
French Catholic hospice on the north side of the city, 
or opposite the new Sultan gate. 

"We mail you a few flower cards composed of 
flowers that we have picked ourselves in the fields 
around Jerusalem. 

" Again thanking you for your kindness, and with 
our united love and best wishes, believe me to re- 
main. Yours very truly, 

•' Herbekt Drake." 

The chief attractions of the city and adjacent region 
were duly inspected long before the week expired 
when our party would return. They included the 
Mosque of Omar, " Robinson's Arch," the Via Do- 



242 MY JOURXEY TO JERUSALEM. 

lorosa, the " wailing place of tlie Jews," the ruins of 
the hospital of the Knights of St. John, the Church of 
the Holy Sepuleher, besides missions, orphan asylums, 
synagogues, and minor mosques. A visit was also 
made to Gehenna, in the valley of Himiom. Formerly 
children were here sacriiiced to Moloch by backslidden 
Israelites. Later, constant fires were kept burning to 
consume the filth of Jerusalem conveyed to the spot. 
Long ages ago the fire was extinguished, and gloomy 
stone walls and a deep cellar remain. 

A fanatic recently appeared and stated tliat God 
had revealed to him in a dream that the Ark of the 
Covenant was buried beneath the ruins. Permission 
was given him to make excavations. After much 
fruitless labor he abandoned the experiment in de- 
spair. 

Tlie celebration uf the "• Feast of Tabernacles " was 
in progress, which continues one week. It is designed 
to commemorate and delineate the mode of life prac- 
ticed by the Israelites during their forty years' wan- 
derings in the wilderness. Booths are erected in 
private yards, where the week is spent by the family 
occupying the j^remises. I was jDermitted to enter 
one of them. Services are also conducted at the 
synagogues, and on the closing day confectionery is 
distributed among the people. 

At the " Tombs of the Kings " extensive catacombs, 



MY JO mix EY TO JliUirSALEJif. 



243 



onrial vaults for deceased members of the royal family, 
exist. With the best preserved are stones showing 
how the door to the dead was anciently closed when 
the stone was rolled before it. The stone was as 
large as an average mill-stone, perfectly round at the 
edge, with flat sides, and rolled in a groove when 




INTKltlOK OK KING SOLOMON S TKMPLK. 



ample pressure was applied. A rostrum with a large 
inner court doubtless was tlie place where funeral 
services were conducted. 

Gethsemane is undoubtedly wrongly located. It is 
at the base of the Mount of Olives, on the corner of 
two roads Mhich were in use for centuries before the 
birth of Jesus, and are substantially unchanged in our 



244 -'/>' JOUnNMY TO JERUSALEM. 

day. It is also in full view of Jerusalem. Few can 
be induced to believe that so conspicuous a spot could 
have been chosen by the Saviour as a place of retire- 
ment and prayer. The fact that Judas was bribed to 
conduct the murderous mob of Jewish and Roman 
" hoodlums " to the place clearly indicates that it was 
in a much more isolated locality. 

Eight old olive-trees are carefully fenced in by 
stone walls, while a variety of flowers and plants are 
cultivated within the inclosure by the aged Greek 
gardener. I visited the sacred site twice, both times 
alone. Here I read from my pocket Bible the de- 
scription of the agony in the garden, the drops of 
blood, the sleeping disciples, and finally Judas guiding 
the mob and band of soldiers to the place. Though, 
like the Rev. Dr. W. M. Thomson and many more 
investigators, not wholly satisfied with the spot as the 
true locality, I could feel the solemn impressions sug- 
gested by the facts at least. 

A new Greek church, not fully completed at the 
time of our visit, crowns the summit of the Mount of 
Olives. Its tall tower furnishes a fine view of this 
section of Palestine. I distinctly saw a portion 
of the Jordan as it empties into the Dead Sea, includ- 
ing a portion of this famous sea itself. A deep mist 
was rising from the Dead Sea as the waters evaporated 
beneath the fierce rays of the ruddy and scorching 



MY JOVRXJijy TO JERUSALEM. 245 

sun. The entire ascent of the tower, probably two 
Imndred feet, is made by a stair-case only. 

Bethany, the Mount of Olives, Gethsemane, Siloani, 
the brook Kedron, or its stony bed (for it is always 
dried up during the hot season, having no supply from 
springs, but surface-water merely), are before us. This 
little brook resembles the superficial and unstable pro- 
fessor of religion. Noisy and demonstrative during 
the rainy season, having no permanent spring as a 
source of supply, like the blighted fig-tree, it soon 
dries up. David knew a better way when he ex- 
claimed, " all my springs are in Thee." So does the 
true Christian every- where. 

The valley of Jehoshaphat ; Jerusalem, with its ven- 
erable walls, minarets, the Mosque of Omar, thfe Tom'- 
er of David, and other historical localities ; also, more 
remote in the west, Bethlehem, the birthplace of 
Jesus ; and far away the blue and majestic mount- 
ains of Moab, all are visible to the unaided eye. 

Bethany, on a close inspection, proved to be practi- 
cally a desolation. The foundation walls of the tradi- 
tional house of Mary, Martha, and Lazarus, also of 
Simon the leper, where the scene of the transactions 
relative to the alabaster-box of ointment is laid, and a 
few Arab huts, comprise about all there is of interest. 
You must approacli the place with a vast amount of 
religious sentiment if you desire any thing more. 




MOHAMMEDANS -n'ORSHIPING. 



MY JOURNEY To JA'RCjSALK)/. 247 

Desolate, stony, unfenced fields, devoid of grass, 
flower, fluttering leaf, or foliage of any description 
during the dry season alone are seen, except here and 
there a lonely dust-covered olive-tree, like so many 
sentinels guarding the place. The grave of Lazarus 
is pointed out, from which his resurrection took place. 
Cyprus and other localities claim to hold his ashes when 
death came to him the second time. Tradition asserts 
that Lazarus never smiled afterward when informed 
that he must die again after his resurrection. This, 
however, seems improbable, since the same divine 
power that had raised him once Nvas ample to accom- 
plish the pledge made — ''Marvel not- at this: for the 
hour is coming, in the which all that are in the graves 
shall hear his voice, and shall come forth "" (John 5. 28). 
Martha declared that she "knew that her brother 
sliould rise again at the resurrection of the last day •' 
— a fundamental fact freely and early taught the 
"Jewish child by the dominant sect, the Pharisees. 
Millions of believers have since that day smiled at 
death when the hour of dissolution approached, in 
full hope of a glorious resurrection. Lazarus, then, 
having had the teaching of the wonderful Guest who 
honored his home with frequent visits, and who had 
summoned him back from the spirit world by his po- 
tent voice, could scarcely have regarded death with 
an exhibition of profound terror. 



248 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALliAt 

The entire region beyond Bethany, as yon journey 
to the Jordan, is wild and desolate in the extreme. 
Save an occasional group of Arab huts, little of inter- 
est is visible. The fields are a mass of small stones, a 
bridle-path answering as a substitute for a road until 
the new and substantial one from Jerusalem, in process 
of construction at tlie time of our visit, is completed. 
Along the old road, meanwhile, your stumbling horse 
picks his way. 

How changed is this treeless and verdureless sec- 
tion of the country since the days of Christ! Of 
course, the rainy season brings to life a myriad of 
tropical plants, flowers, and shrubbery, but the for- 
ests, through the action of war and the neglect and 
misrule of barbarians for weary centuries, have long 
since disapj^eared, together with much of the civiliza- 
tion Vhich characterized the Romans and Jews. 

By special invitation of tlie Arab sheik, sent 
through the "American family," I attended the cele-* 
bration of three native weddings one evening at tlie 
village of Siloam. The place is directly east of and 
opposite to Jerusalem, near where the valley of the 
Kedron joins that of the Jehoshaphafc. 

It was a celebration rather than a marriage, as we 
understand the term. The marriage contract, in fact, 
is made by parents during the infancy of the chil- 
dren. On certain conditions, including a specified 



J/1' jorh'XJ-:r to jehvsalem. 



249 



dowry, the agreement is made, Xow a ratiiication is 
arranged, with a jubilee and a feast. 

"Following my guide, and fearing no danger,'' 1 
wended my way through the filthy streets of Jerusa- 




THE HOLY .SEPLLCHEK 



lem, with a horde of hungry and ferocious d< igs at my 
heels. Out of St. Stephen's gate, down the steep and 
stony banks we descend, picking our ^vay carefully 
aniono- the drv bowlders in the bed of the Ivedron. 



250 l/i' JUURNilY To JURUSALEM. 

The house of the sheik was dimly lighted. Through 
a dark and winding alley, up dangerous steps of stone, 
we groped cautioiisl}- till near the entrance ; a feeble, 
flickering light indicated the location of the door. A 
bevy of demonstrative native dogs made the welkin 
ring as we approached. Though a wedding was in 
progress, the surroundings were needlessly dismal and 
unattractive. 

We found the sheik to be a man apparently seven- 
ty-five years of age. He occupied a conch on the 
floor, being sick with " chills and fever," but arose as 
we entered, greeted us cordially, assigned me a divan, 
the seat of honor, and, apparently overcome with 
weariness, resumed his bed. 

This was to be the home of one of the brides. 
Supplies had been secnred for housekeeping, consist- 
ing in part of a stone bin of wheat, jars of olive-oil, 
and rugs and mats for bedding. All sleep on the 
floor, and no chairs, tables, or bedsteads ai-e required. 
One Arab, Avho seemed to have charge of the festivi- 
ties, was clad in a sheepskin coat, with the long white 
wool outside as originally M'orn by the animal. It 
was simply the pelt of the sheep, kept around his 
body by a girdle and some other security. 

Finally refreshments wei-e served. A large round 
metallic vessel was bronght in, such as I had seen 
used on washing-day at Jerusalem. It was heaped 



JfV JOUliXEY rO JERUSALEM. 251 

full of boiled rice, over which some fat roast meat 
was placed, and was deposited on the floor in the cen- 
ter of the room. We Avere invited to draw near and 
partake, which we did, occupying a hassock instead of 
a chair. JS^o plates, knives, forks, or spoons are re- 
quired by the Arabs, since each one helps himself 
with his naked hands out of the single bowl or ves- 
sel on the floor. Small M'ooden spoons were consid- 
erately supplied the ''American family'' and my- 
self, owing to our inexperience. 

The importance of washing before and after meals, 
upon which so much stress is laid by both Jew and 
Mohammedan, was quite obvious. The latter never 
washes in a basin, lest dirty water should touch him 
and he be deemed ceremonially unclean. AVater is 
therefore poured upon his hands by anothei-, to avoid 
the difliculty, while he rubs them vigorously. 

The Arabs, after we had been served, showed mar- 
velous dexterity in plunging their hands into the boiled 
rice, compressing it into balls, and swallowing it with 
an obvious appetite, meanwhile making playful ob- 
servations concerning our awkward manner of eating. 

Finally the cry arose, '" The l)ridegrooni cometh." 
A motley group of peoj^le passed the house of the 
sheik in every couceival)le style of dress and decora- 
tion, including native women, like wandering ghosts, 
with the inevitable white cloth covering their heads, 




A BEDOUIN. 



JfT JOUnXEY TO JEin'SALE.}/. 253 

faces, and forms. A doleful and discordant drnni 
was beaten, while a single taper, before which some one 
held an old hat to prevent it from being blown out 
by a gust of wind, lighted the procession. 

"We followed the merry-makers to an adjacent plaza 
which jutted out from the side of the mountain. 
Arabs in abiahs — a native cloak of camers-hair, usual- 
ly with black and white stripes — and in "various styles 
of dress sat or reclined on the ground in the open 
air. A feeble lire glowed at the far side of the en- 
campment, where black, muddy coffee was being 
made. It was served to all indiscriminately, with a 
cube of white sugar, but no milk. 

Offerings of money were made from time to time 
in small amounts, with the undei'standing that the 
gross sum was to be divided equally between the 
three brides. An Arab with a stentorian voice an- 
nounced the amount given and from whom, which 
kept up a monotonous din for an hour or two, add- 
ing, " Allah bless the giver." After a small contri- 
bution from me I heard the cry again, modified to 
suit the occasion, " Allah bless tlie A-mt'r-i-c<a^^i," 
with a heavy and prolonged emphasis on the closing 
syllable. Later, one of the natives donated an addi- 
tional contribution in my name, as a compliment, 
which evoked applause from the guests. Each couple 
arose to acknowledge the gift as the donations were 



254 ^J^y JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

called out, Avliich gave them almost constant employ- 
ment. 

The marriage ceremony usually occurs at a very 
early age, while mere children, in fact, which seems 
very much like playing " keeping house " with a few- 
dolls. One lady of the " American family," who, 
with others of that household, accompanied us, point- 
ing to a young girl, said : 

" That girl has been married tM'o years, and I do 
not believe that she is more than ten years old now." 

Just then the girl ajiproached, and after an intro- 
duction to me the lady repeated the observation to 
her, and said,' inquiringly : 

" Let me see, you are ten years old, I believe." 

" Indeed," responded the offended girl, quickly, 
" I am older than ten. I am twelve,^'' with a heavy 
and unmistakable emphasis on twelve. 

According to her own version, then, she was but 
ten years old at the time of her marriage. 

Becoming chilled with the night air, as my heavier 
clothing was still on the back of a pack-horse among 
the mountains in the interior of Palestine, I was com- 
pelled to return to my lodgings at an early hour, 
though the marriage festivities usually continue in 
some form for three days. 

A Jewish funeral procession wound its way along 
the eastern wall of Jerusalem and across the Kedron 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



255 



to the western slopes of the Mount of Olives, facing 
Jerusalem, as we returned. The body was " borne 
of four" on a bier. Perhaps four or five persons 
preceded it, bearing a lantern, others following. The 
Jews always bury at night. The dead body is re- 
garded as ceremonially unclean, and receives slight 




VIEW FROM THE WALL OK JERUSALEM. 

consideration after death. As far as practicable all 

their dead are buried at the Mount of Olives, it 

being believed that in the morning of the general 

resurrection the dead of all the world must pass 

through the earth and rise at that locality. Wealthy 

Jews in many instances make provision for the burial 

of their bodies here, even when they die in distant 

lands. More than a century ago barks loaded with 
17 



256 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

the bones of Jews, brought from distant ports, landed 
theni at Joppa, whence they were transported on the 
backs of camels to Jerusalem for interment, for the 
reason already stated. 

By very many it is believed that the restoration of 
the Jews to temporal power is near at hand. The 
decay of the Turkish Empire, the return of many 
Jews from other countries, the extensive new build- 
ings now in process of construction within and with- 
out the walls of the city, the making for the first 
time in history of good, durable, and broad carriage- 
roads, with recent and repeated surveys for proposed 
railroads, the grading of which, according to recent 
dispatches, began shortly after our party sailed for 
America, point, in the judgment of very many, to 
important coming events. Block after block of mod- 
ern ^tone structures are going up outside the walls, 
and many costly buildings are superseding old rook- 
eries that have existed within the city from time im- 
memorial. Three locomotives constructed in the 
United States have already been exported for the 
new Palestinian railway. Tliey are named " Jaffa," 
" Bamleh," and " Jerusalem " respectively. 

This prophecy, especially, certainly seems to be in 
process of fulfillment in our day, and great stress is 
laid upon it by resident Christians. The extent and 
direction of the new building, when taken into con- 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 257 

sideration, certainly seem to justify the cherished ex- 
pectation : 

" Behold, the days come, saith the Lord, that the 
city shall be built to the Lord from the tower of 
Ilananeel unto the gate of the corner. And the meas- 
uring-line shall yet go forth over against it upon the 
hill Gareb, and shall compass about to Goath. And 
the whole valley of the dead bodies, and of the ashes, 
and all the fields unto the brook of Kedron, unto the 
corner of the horse gate toward the east, shall be holy 
unto the Lord ; it shall not be plucked up, nor thrown 
down any more forever " (Jer. 31. 38-40). 

" The ashes," or ash -heap, still remains outside the 
walls a little north of the Damascus gate. Here all 
the ashes which accumulated from the burnt sacri- 
fices of the temple were deposited, since they were 
regarded as too sacred to be devoted to the purposes 
of fertilization. Alternate layers of broken stone 
have kept them in their place for centuries until re- 
cently. JSTow they are being carried away to be util- 
ized in the new buildings in process of construction. 

Lepers hover constantly about the traveler, beg- 
ging. Even within the walls of the city, contrary to 
all law and precedent, a group of forty of them, at 
the ruins of the hospital of the Knights of St. John, 
made a rush for me one morning, and I was glad to 
escape from their contagious presence. Our party, 



258 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

however, before leaving Jerusalem made a cash 
contribution for their relief, which was left with 
" Joseph," the popular and trustj dragoman employed 
by Mr. Eollo Floyd. 

After the return of our company we made a brief 
visit to Bethlehem, All the " sights " were seen, in- 
cluding tlie Church of the ISTativity, the manger, and 
the various parts of the building, and near by the field 
where Ruth, the Moabitess, gleaned the fields of her 
kinsman Boaz, whom she subsequently married, and 
where in later centuries the angels appeared to the 
startled and sturdy shepherds as they announced the 
birth of Jesus. Our drive from Jerusalem to the an- 
cient city was replete with interest, passing Rachel's 
tomb and other noted localities on the waj'. Dark- 
ness gathered around us before we had fully satisfied 
ourselves in seeing the prominent objects contained 
in Bethlehem. The touch of time and the wastings 
of war have, in a large degree, spared Bethlehem, 
and it remains essentially unchanged. Many of the 
people are engaged in the manufacture of mother-of- 
pearl breast-pins, the material being brought from 
the Red Sea. Some of the designs are very good ; 
they include the dove, the camel, and the Star of 
Bethlehem. 

Ages have glided swiftly away since the star- 
guided magi journeyed from the remote sands of 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



259 



Arabia in pursuit of this mysterious nocturnal visitor. 
The wise men now shimber in unknown graves. The 
startled shepherds with their peaceful flocks have 
vanished from the rugged mountain slopes of Judea, 
The mighty power of the Roman Empire is broken. 




A JERUSALEM JEW. 



The imperial throne of the Csesars is vacant. The 
glory of Greece has departed. Earth's monarchs 
who then swayed the scepter, with their dauntless 
cohorts and legions, have long since moldered to 
their native dust. The prince and the peasant, the 



260 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

beasts that roamed the ancient forests, the Ush that 
sported in the sea, or the song-birds that warbled 
in the tree-tops — all are gone. But Jesus, the 
Son of Marj and the Son of God, still reigns. Ac- 
cording to his prediction, he is drawing all men unto 
himself. The uncounted millions of China and 
Japan have heard the glad tidings. Korea is to be 
redeemed. The deep and awful lethargy of India is 
lifting. Africa, too, has been invaded by the intrep- 
id and enthusiastic Bishop William Taylor and his 
noble band, while the isles of the ocean have caught 
a glimpse of this wonderful midnight star, and re- 
joice in its God-given light. 

It is a. significant fact that the wealth, railways, 
commerce, inventions, science, and literature of the 
globe are chiefly in the hands of Christian nations. 
The Methodist Episcopal Church alone bnilds two 
new houses of worship daily for the Master, while a 
million of souls throughout the world are annually 
converted to God. 

Radical changes in the mode of observing Christmas 
have, indeed, been made since the rude period when 

' ' The mistletoe liung in the great castle hall, 
And the holly branch shone on the old oak wall." 

The huge wassail bowl of punch has largely been 
supplanted by the less stimulating beverages of tea 
and coffee. The crackling yule-log has vanished 



AfY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 261 

before the glowing anthracite. The boar's head has 
been supplanted by the far-famed turkey. The ex- 
cited chase and the huntsman's horn have yielded to 
the mellow tones of the Sabbath-school bell. Myriads 
of children in neat attire, with their parents and 
friends, annually commemorate the season with gospel 
songs and scriptural recitations at the house of God. 

The term Christmas being derived from the Latin 
words, Chi'istirMassa, denoting the mass of Chi'ist, 
should by all means be religiously observed. It is 
the birthday of the Prince of Peace. The day should 
not be devoted exclusively to feasting and the be- 
stowal or reception of gifts Let each human heart 
be given fully and irrevocably to Him. Acts of char- 
ity shoiild, indeed, be numerous and multiform. 
Heal estrangements and banish hideous hate by the be- 
nign principle of love. Not for the day merely, but 
for all time. Alas ! it often occurs that 

" We ring the bells and we raise the strain, 

We hang up garlands every-where, 

And bid the tapers twinkle fair. 

Feast and frolic, and then we go 
Back to the same old lives again." 



262 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

King Solomon's Famous Makble Quarry. — On to Egypt. 
— The Suez Canal. — Egyptian Mosques and "Women. 
— A Visit to the Sphinx and Pyramids. — The Howling 
Dervishes. 

" The traveler owns the grateful sense 
Of sweetness near, he knows not whence, 
And pausing takes with forehead bare 
The benediction of the air." — Whittier. 

PREYIOUS to our departure from Jerusalem we 
visited the famous marble quarry of King Solo- 
mon. It is a vast subterranean, vault, beijig situated 
immediately beneath, the time-honored and sacred 
metropolis. Entrance is made outside the walls near 
the Damascus gate. Many tourists and even some 
permanent residents are entirely ignorant of its ex- 
istence. From this sj^ot all the marble was taken 
which was used in the construction of Solomon's 
Temple. 

The cave is of great extent. It extends in various 
directions, one corridor leading nearly half way to the 
former site of Solomon's Temple, where the Mosque 
of Omar now stands. The marble is of great purity 
and as white as snow. This justifies the traditional 
observation attributed to the Queen of Sheba during 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 263 

her memorable visit to Solomon, as she marveled at 
its silvery whiteness glistening beneath the brilliant 
rays of an Oriental sun. The foundation walls of the 
temple, composed of massive blocks of hewn stone, still 
stand, and are shown to visitors, descent being made 
for fifty feet, perhaps, below the outer soil, where the 
debris of centuries conceals the marvelous masonry 
from the superficial observer. They were laid 1000 
B. C, and were furnished by Hiram, King of Tyre, 
as described in 1 Kings 5. 17. The marble, however, 
was found on the very spot. The site is the ancient 
threshing-floor purchased by King David of Araunah 
the Jebusite for fifty shekels of silver, as a place of 
sacrifice to stay the ravages of the plague, which had 
already swept away more than seventy thousand of his 
subjects. 

Marks of the tools, wedges, and other implements 
used in removing the immense blocks of marble are 
plainly visible on the walls and roof of the quarry. 
Even the lamp-black from the primitive lamps 
employed by the workmen, which were inserted in 
crevices of the rock, still remains. No one doubts 
that the quantity of marble removed furnished an 
ample supply for the completion of the world-renowned 
temple of King Solomon, Apparently, an unlimited 
quantity of this excellent material still remains, which 
may ere long be needed if modern buildings shall 




ON TO EGYPT. 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 265 

continue to be erected at Jerusalem in the future as 
during recent years. 

Beneath the ancient city abundant evidence re- 
mains to confirm the remarkable biblical stateilient 
that " there was neither hammer nor ax nor any tool 
of iron heard " when the temple was being built 
(1 Kings 6. 7). Below the bustle of the narrow and 
crowded streets of Jerusalem skilled workmen, like 
so many coral insects beneath the tumult of the 
ocean, noiselessly and industriously labored on until 
the stupendous superstructure was completed. Then 
their secret toil was seen and appreciated by the 
countless thousands who gathered at the royal pal- 
ace, as the work of the humble Christian laborer will 
be at the judgment day. 

The days of Turkish misrule, happily, are nearing 
the end. Hopelessly bankrupt, unable either to clothe 
or pay her soldiers, pursuing ceaselessly her dog-in- 
the-manger pohcy, the climax cannot be far distant. 
Who will secure the prize when tlie fruit falls, as fall 
it must ? Shall England, France, Germany, or Russia ? 
No one can with absolute safety predict. If native 
sentiment were a factor in the solution of the problem 
England would not gain the coveted land. For some 
cause the people of Palestine would prefer almost any 
other nation to her. Russia would be their choice 
if it were clearly expressed. However, the judgment 



266 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

of a mongrel and semi-barbarous people will be of 
small significance wben the clasli of arms resounds 
throughout the Orient, if not in large portions of Eu- 
rope itself. 

On every hand the influence and work of Russia 
can be distinctly traced. New Greek churches are 
being completed within and without the walls of the 
Holy City, besides extensive blocks of modem dwell- 
ings, stores, and other structures. The famous and 
venerable ruin, the hospital of the Knights of St. 
John, Russia especially covets. It was presented to 
Germany by the Turkish government. " Kame your 
price and you shall have the sum," says Russia. " We 
need it for our church ; you do not. It is near the 
Church of the Holy Sepulcher, hence almost indis- 
pensable to us." Thus far the blandishments of Russia 
have been successfully resisted by the sturdy German. 
Doubtless the sword will again be required to cut the 
Gordian knot. The building was erected by the 
crusaders. 

From the days of Abraham to those of Disraeli the 
hunted Hebrew has engaged the attention of man- 
kind to an extraordinary degree. The history of this 
ancient and peculiar people covers an eventful and 
interesting period of nearly four thousand years. 
Since his migration from Egypt the Jew has been 
alternately a protege of Providence, devout or idola- 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 267 

trous, and in all ages the victim of cruel and in- 
tolerable oppression. A homeless fugitive, banished 
by unjust edicts from many ruling monarchs, his 
property confiscated, personally ostracised, traduced, 
imprisoned, and tortured, he has preserved in all 
lands the Old Testament, the Talmud, the Tar- 
gum, his language, religion, and national character- 
istics. 

At the taking of Jerusalem by Titus, A. D. 70, no 
fewer than one million one hundred thousand Jews 
miserably perished. Sixty-five years later five hun- 
dred and eighty thousand more were also butchered 
by the infuriated Romans. Even in England multi- 
tudes of the race were brutally massacred at London, 
in 1189, at the coronation of Richard I. Five hun- 
dred unhappy Jews shut up in York Castle and men- 
aced by a murderous mob, in 1190, unable to escape, 
mutually cut each other's throats. King John, in 1204, 
put to death vast numbers of both sexes, and chiefly 
for his personal amusement extracted the teeth and 
plucked out the ej'es of many more. In 1262, at Lon- 
don, seven hundred Jews were put to death for usury, 
and in 1278 two hundred and sixty-seven others were 
hanged and quartered on the charge of mutilating 
coin. During the year 1290 the Jews, fifteen thou- 
sand six hundred and sixty in number, were formally 
banished from England, and were not permitted to 



268 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

return until the rule of Cromwell three hundred and 
sixty-seven years afterward. 

The struggle of the Jew for the attainment of his 
civil and political rights was prolonged, and became 
proverbial. During a period of nine consecutive 
years Baron Lionel de Rothschild was thrice elected 
member of Parliament by vast majorities before per- 
mission was granted him to take his seat. In Russia, 
Austria, Spain, Portugal, Prance, and elsewhere the 
contest was protracted and bitter, but, happily, of a 
less sanguinary character. The dark cloud of preju- 
dice has measurably lifted, and under the benign in- 
fluences of Messiah's reign — the Prince of Peace — it 
is fervently hoped, will speedily disappear forever. 

In all the departments of commerce, literature, 
music, the fine arts, and scientific research the Jew 
has amassed wealth and achieved an enviable distinc, 
tion, even " Amid the world's reproach and cruel vi& 
tor's scorn." 

His Bible, describing the deeds of such renowned 
Hebrews as Abraham, Joseph, Moses, Joshua, David, 
Solomon, Daniel, Isaiah, and Jeremiah, is our Bible 
also. The four evangelists, together with Paul, and 
Jesus the son of Mary and the Son of God, were 
likewise Jews. Persecution with fire and sword, the 
dungeon, the rack, and the cross have vanished like 
some hideous nightmare. The hunt for Hebrew souls 



270 MY journi:y to Jerusalem. 

has happily begun. May multitudes of God's chosen 
people be captured by the "Galilean King ! " Grander 
results than attended the enthusiastic but unfortunate 
crusade of Peter the Hermit will yet be witnessed. 
" The lost sheep of the house of Israel" are coming to 
Jesus, of whom " Moses in the law and the prophets 
did write." 

The Jewish mission recently inaugurated in New 
York by the Kev. Jacob Freshman, a faithful Chris- 
tian son of Abraham, not to speak of flourishing or- 
ganizations in other portions of the United States, is 
meeting with encouraging success, and deserves the 
hearty and substantial sympathy of all Christians 
every- where. The day dawneth ! Kight flees apace ! 

A rapid ride by daylight, with the members of our 
party, from Jerusalem to Jaffa, was exceedingly en- 
joyai,ble. Though the route was the same previously 
traveled by us during the night, we were enabled to 
see objects of interest afresh and to better advantage. 
The night was pleasantly spent at the new and com- 
fortable Palestine Hotel, Jaffa, owned by that prince 
of dragomans, Mr. RoUa Floyd. 

In the morning another ramble was taken among 
the bazaars, including a second visit to " the house of 
Simon the tanner." A few of the party took short 
rides on the backs of camels, led by their Arab owners, 
which involved a fresh outlay of " backsheesh." 



31 Y JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 271 

After a farewell dinner in the " Land of Promise" 
we make our way througli the narrow streets to the 
French steamer which is to convey us to Port Said, 
Egypt, the gateway to the famous Suez Canal. 
Arabs in coarse striped camel's-hair cloaks — termed 
abiahs — with hordes of donkeys and camels, crowd 
the streets. Porters with huge boxes on tlieir backs, 
strapped to their heads and chests, ahnost a load for a 
horse, block up the way. 

As we bid a long and possibly a lasting farewell to 
Palestine, the words of Whittier seem expressive of 
our closing impressions : 

" O, the outward hatli goue ! but in glory and power 
The spirit surviveth the things of an hour." 

In the gray dawn of an October morning anchor 
is dropped at Port Said, which presents a quiet and 
modern appearance. The completion of the Suez 
Canal to tliis point, where the waters of the Red Sea 
and the blue Mediterranean were united, gave it some 
degree of prominence. English names appear on the 
public signs, with a larger proportion in the Arabic 
and Greek language. Our stay is necessarily brief. 
Embarking on a cockle-shell of a steamer, we sail 
down the famous canal to Ismailia, where a grand 
dinner awaits us, as well as an Egyptian railway train 

to convey us to Cairo. 

19 



272 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



Some conception of tlie formidable character of the 
work j)erformecl by De Lesseps can be inferred as 
we sail on for hours beneath the relentless and scorch- 
ing rays of an African sun. The width of the ex- 
cavation varies from one hundred and twenty to three 
hundred feet, besides extensive docks and harbors for 




ON THE SUEZ CANAL. 



the repair and temporary anchorage of vessels on 
their way to distant lands. 

Hundreds of camels urged by Arab drivers were 
busy at one point conveying loads of sand in sacks on 
their backs to the top of a steep inclined plane, the 
object being evidently to widen the canal for some 
local purpose at that particular spot. 

From the steam-boat landing at Ismailia to the rail- 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 273 

way depot the roadway is lined with the carob-tree. 
It produces the "husks" fed to the swine, or pods 
somewhat resembling beans, coveted so eagerly by 
the prodigal son in his migrations from the paternal 
mansion. Tradition also declares that John the Bap- 
tist used it likewise as a portion of his frugal menu. 
The tree affords abundant shade, and at the time of 
our arrival was laden with the long pods, presenting 
a graceful picture. Several members of the party 
secured specimens to exhibit to the children of their 
respective Sunday-schools. 

The ride to Cairo proved a positive delight and 
surprise in some respects. Coming, as we did, from 
the arid and ashen desolation of Palestine, where 
vegetation, deprived of water for several months, was 
seemingly extinct, naught but heated limestone and 
dust being visible, Egypt blushed in verdant beauty 
like the very Garden of Eden. On every hand an 
abundant harvest was manifest. Limitless fields of 
wheat and Indian corn — with cotton and other crops 
— stretched far away in the distance. Even now, as 
in the days of Joseph, there is a measureless supplj' 
of " corn in Egypt." For weary weeks no green 
thing had been witnessed in our travels throughout 
Europe and Palestine, save the dust-covered olive, fig, 
and a sprinkling of other tropical trees. How mar- 
velous the change ! 



274 ^^^ JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

The secret of it all was tlie W\\e. Irrigation here 
is a pronounced success. It reminded ns of the fa- 
mous painting at the Yatican, Kome, where the Nile is 
symbolized by a female with children in her arms and 
various animals at her feet, with fruits, vegetables, 
and other native products, denoting the unlimited 
supply which she bestows upon man and beast. 

In the way-side fields grazed peacefully the African 
buffalo, and occasionally the camel, with flocks of large 
black goats and sheep. The date-palm laden with 
luscious fruit lifted its lofty form on high, as if con- 
scious of being an important, if not indispensable, con- 
tributor to the public good. Low and squatty houses 
of sun-baked brick were common. Their mean 
appearance seemed utterly out of harmony with the 
prodigality and grandeur of nature which surrounded 
them. 

The road-bed of the railway was in bad repair. 
Such swaying of cars, bouncing, and discomfort had 
been nowhere else experienced. To add to the misery 
blinding clouds of dust literally covered the miserable 
pilgrims. All things finally end, and so did the jour- 
ney to Cairo. Thorough ablutions, a substantial 
tahle d'hote dinner at seven P. M., followed by re- 
freshing sleep, prepared us in some degree for the 
duties of the succeeding day. 

The Boulak Museum of Egyptian curiosities and 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 275 

antiques presented few novelties to those who had 
witnessed similar displays at the British Museum, 
London, and at various points in New York city. 
The mummies of Rameses II., who flourished contem- 
porary with. Moses, and other Egyptian monarchs 
were included in the collection. 

On a Nile boat, adjoining the exhibition, was being 
loaded a huge stone statue of the Pharaoh of the 
exodus, the tyrant task-master and pursuer, whose 
fierce forces met with so overwhelming a defeat in 
the Red Sea during the career of Moses. Apparently, 
the huge block would weigh fully one ton. Yet it 
was fastened to a series of poles placed on the shoul- 
ders of perhaps a score of dusky and stalwart Arabs 
and Nubians, being carried along slowly, while all 
joined in a cheery chorus which sounded like " Allah 
is great ; Allah is great." The image was to be trans- 
ported to another locality on the Nile, to embellish a 
public garden. 

Women in Egypt, as in other Mohammedan coun- 
tries, conceal their faces by ugly veils of black or 
variegated hues, according to their age, but unlike 
other lands, expose the eyes and a portion of the fore- 
head. A brass or wooden cylinder about the size of 
a spool of thread is displayed on the forehead. This 
is for the purpose of concealing the tape fastening the 
veil to their heads, and possesses no religious significa- 



§76 MY JOtlRNEY TO JERtrSALEM. 

tion, as many mistakenly suppose. Hordes of donkey 
boys make one's life miserable by incessantly dogging 
your footsteps around tbe city, crying in fair broken 
English, " Donkey, sir ; very goot donkey." You 
pause at a bazaar window to inspect an article therein 
displayed, or to see some object across the street, but 



.^^, 



THE WINGED LION. 



the everlasting din of " Donkey, sir," goes on. Even 
when our entire Palestine party have just taken a 
long line of carriages for a distant drive the clamor 
continues, though it should be obvious, even to an 
Egyptian donkey boy, that a traveler cannot be in 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. Ill 

two remote places at once nor ride two quadrupeds at 
the same moment, especially if going in opposite di- 
rections, unless lie chances to be a professional politic 
cian or a clerical mountebank. 

Not unfrequently, in order to secure the patronage 
of the traveler, he names his animals for the time 
being after well-known personages in the country 
where he presumes the visitor came from. Hence, 
to American travelers, he cries : " Here is your Mark 
Twain donkey, Mary Anderson donkey, or Grover 
Cleveland donkey." To the Englishman he shouts : 
"Here is your nice Gladstone donkey, and Queen 
Victoria donkey, with two beautiful black eyes." 

Various mosques about Cairo were duly visited. 
One morning in particular -ss^e removed our shoes 
three times to enable us to enter these structures, a 
peculiar sanctity being attached to the spot. While 
visiting the Mosque of Omar, at Jerusalem, one of 
the party thoughtlessly expectorated on the floor. 
Our Mohammedan guide immediately threw himself 
on his knees, bowed his head to the floor, and kissed 
the very spot to purify the premises. The interpreter 
absolutely declined to translate the personal epithet 
applied by the devotee to the thoughtless offender, 
lest a religious outbreak should occur. It might 
serve as a lesson to Christian worshipers every-where, 
at least, to preserve their places of worship from 





THE PYRAMIDS. 



My JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 279 

desecration and defilement as far as is consistently 
practicable. 

The Mosque of Mohammed AH is the handsomest 
and costliest structure of the Mohammedan faith at 
Cairo, unsurpassed even by the renowned Mosque of 
St. Sophia, Constantinople. The architecture is ex- 
ceedingly grand and imposing. Much of the outer 
and inner walls are composed- of solid alabaster. 
Within, costly mosaics adorn the building, while pre- 
cious stones of many attractive colors shone resplen- 
dently in the beautiful dome. Yarious worshipers 
were at prayer in portions of the building. " The dim 
religions light " and the murmur of distant voices at 
devotion produced sensations of an impressive char- 
acter. Costly Turkish carpets of tasteful patterns, 
thick and soft, covered the floor. Their cash valua- 
tion, aside from the associations attached to them, 
would doubtless have exceeded $50,000. Experts, in- 
deed, have made an estimate approximating that sum. 

The tombs of the kings of Egypt were also grand, 
and w^ell deserve a visit. Millions of .dollars were ex- 
pended upon these beautifully decorated sarcophagi 
to commemorate the name and fame of ancient and 
terrible tyrants. Among the most modern of them 
was one containing the body of the mother of the 
present Kliedive of Egypt. It was a sculptural gem 
of rare and exquisite beauty. 



280 MY JOtlRNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

Included in the list of strange siglits in Cairo should 
be mentioned the presence of women in the streets, 
with broad shallow baskets poised on their heads, 
picking up the animal droppings with their naked 
hands and placing them in the baskets. Here, there, 
and yonder they dart, absorbed in their lowly though 
disgusting labor, never removing the basket or spill- 
ing its contents. The accumulation is conveyed 
carefully to their humble homes, where it is dried 
for fuel. Owing to the utter absence of forests 
or woodland of any description in the country, save 
the stumps and roots of decayed fruit-trees, and an 
occasional branch brought down by the I^ile, the 
problem of fuel proves a startling one. 

A superb carriage ride led from Cairo to the pyra- 
mids and sphinx at Ghizeh. Much of the way the 
road^was well shaded from the fierce rays of the blaz- 
ing sun by a long line of tropical trees. The road- 
way ran along various local branches of the wonder- 
ful Nile, the main stream being crossed by a bridge. 
Little evidence of commerce was visible on its waters. 
A few small sailing-vessels with tall curved masts alone 
lent animation to the scene. The ascent of the pyra- 
mids was made by some of our party, while a few en- 
tered the gloomy pile of stones to visit the burial 
chambers of the king and queen. Others were quite 
content to view the wonderful monuments from the 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 281 

surface of the earth, and endeavor to realize the fact, 
stated by Napoleon during liis campaign here, that 
" forty centuries looked down upon them." But 
little opportunity for reflection was possible, owing 
to the small army of guides proffering their services, 
or Arabs with antiques to sell or camels to let for a 




TILE SPHINX. 



short drive. Though the average tourist is hunted 
by beggars and peddlers daily through many lands, 
yet the climax is reached at the pyramids. To de- 
cline politely a dozen times means nothing to the Arab 
or Egyptian. Nothing less than bluster, with the ap- 
pearance of terrific rage, finally drives them away. 



282 MY JOURKEY TO JERUSALEM. 

Personally, I declined all invitations to ascend the 
pyramid or to enter its dark and dismal vaults. How- 
ever, in a moment of exuberant good-nature, for a 
trifling service I presented the Arab sheik v^^ith my 
pocket-knife. Arab like, he wished to show his grat- 
itude and extend to me some rude hospitality. Hence 
moiyeh (water) in a stone jar was repeatedly urged 
upon me. Knowing how sensitive the race is con- 
cerning refusals of such courtesies, after much coax- 
ing on his part I consented to be shown the interior 
of the pyramid. 

Pie called three stalwart natives, who seized me by 
each hand, alternately pulling or pushing, and I was 
hurried into the grim grave of forgotten kings. The 
descent was rapid, being an inchned plane of marble 
worn as smooth as glass by constant use, since pil- 
grims have gathered here from all climes during the 
past four thousand years. At some points I was 
compelled to crawl on my hands and knees through a 
small hole ; elsewhere, the three sturdy Arabs lifted 
me almost by main strength over a wall nearly as 
high as my head. Finally we reached the " Queen's 
Chamber," where we shouted and clapped our hands 
to hear the echo from the vaulted ceiling. 

The well in the interior was pointed out, and a 
swarthy Arab offered to go to the bottom of it with a 
light if I desired it, which I declined with thanks. 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 283 

Now the men made a demand on me for " three 
good backsheesh," meaning a large present to each 
man for escorting me. Knowing tliat the conductor . 
of our party had paid the slieik for the entire com- 
pany, and that I was tlie guest of tlie sheik himself, 
who desired to show me a courtesy for my small 
present, I positively declined to contribute a single 
piaster. 

I was alone in the center of the great pyramid of 
Ghizeh. The men might be cut-throats or despera- 
does of some description. Be it as it may, I had 
firmly resolved to make no payment on principle 
when the journey began, even at the risk of my life. 
It is a common trick of the natives to get the traveler 
half way up the pyramid and extort more money 
from him, threatening to push him down, or within 
the gloomy and ghostly tomb make a similar demand 

at a lonely and dangerous point. 

Springing quickly back, and assuming an indignant 

if not a hostile attitude, I shouted, lustily : 

" Kot one piaster ! I am here as the guest of the 

sheik. Let no man lay hands on me to resist me. No 

further will I go. Back to the open air I will find 

my way alone. I will report every man to the 

sheik." 

The effect was almost magical. Like whipped 

spaniels they fawned around me. 



284 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

" We no want backsheesh. You will please no tell 
the sheik. We are your servants. Let us show you 
the King's Chamber." 

"]^o," I answered; "not another step will I go 
with you. I am the guest of the sheik. He shall 
hear of it, and I will return alone. Hands off, 
every one of you." 

I returned, but in spite of all my opposition they 
persisted in rendering \\\q some assistance, occasionally 
ejaculating : 

" We are your servants. You will please not tell 
the sheik." 

I was glad enough to reach the open air once more, 
but failed in my attempt to report them to the sheik. 
Mistaking another Arab for him, I told the story. He 
did not understand many words, and laughed loudly. 
Seeing my mistake, I tried to speak to the real sheik 
alone, but found it impossible with so many natives 
and tourists around him, and was compelled to aban- 
don- the idea. One of my three Arab guides came 
crouching around me just as our carriage departed for 
Cairo, making a final attempt for money. It proved 
fruitless, however. 

" Yatever you please," he continued, when I again 
refused. 

" I please to give you nothing^'^ I added, sternly. 
And with a subdued look on his hangdog counte- 




ENTRANCE TO THE GREAT PYRAMID. 



286 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

nance, he at length disappeared in the deepening 
shadows of the evening while we drove on. 

" Egyptian darkness " indeed closed in around us 
before our party reached the hotel at Cairo. My car- 
riage, containing four besides myself, two of whom 
were ladies, members of the company, had very poor 
and slow horses. ]^o amount of whipping could in- 
duce them to proceed faster than a walk. Twice 
guides came back to look for us. Finally, as we 
were then three or four miles from our destination, 
another carriage was procured, and we were driven 
rapidly to tlie hotel. 

The sphinx, it should be remembered, was wor- 
shiped as one of their gods by the ancient Egyp- 
tians. The design was undoubtedly that its sleepless 
eye might watch over the dust of the departed 
monarchs slumbering in the adjacent pyramids. It 
is cut out of solid rock. Possibly it served also as 
a solemn symbol of immortality, the watchful and 
far-away look denoting unbroken interest in human 
affairs as well as continued existence of conscious 
being. 

No one should leave Cairo without visiting the 
howling dervishes. They meet for worship every 
Friday afternoon at two o'clock. Though our train 
for Alexandria departed at four Po M., we managed 
to spend about an hour among this peculiar, small, 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 287 

and fanatical sect. Their religion was brought from 
Persia, and presents many curious and grotesque pe- 
culiarities as observed by its zealous and demonstra-' 
tive devotees. 

All are seated in a circle on the floor of a mosque 
of a plain and unadorned description. The mellow 
notes of a flute are heard, and each person joins in a 
succession of snorts and grunts, sometimes barking 
like a dog or pufling loudly like a locomotive. An 
Ethiopian, in a white turban and a sort of surplice, 
enters, bearing a wand, and performs some astonish- 
ing swirling witli outstretched arms. Round and 
round he goes, while the pufling and snorting go on, 
but with new sounds ever and anon. Nearly all are 
swaying and rocking from side to side, or backward 
and forward. Two or three gain their feet, swinging 
themselves wildly to and fro, the long black hair of one 
flying in the breeze, making him look like a veritable 
witch astride of a broomstick. A dignifled old man 
keeps them in proper position. Any deviation from 
the prescribed rule involves a mark of disapprobation 
or some sort of a penalty. The great effort is to mortify 
the flesh by laboring even to downright exhaustion. If 
one falls prostrate from an attack of vertigo, or in an 
epileptic fit, it is deemed a signal success, but the 
weary work still proceeds with renew'ed vigor. At 

Cairo the sect is small and barely tolerated by the 
19 



288 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

government. Constantinople furnislies greater facili- 
ties for tlieir work, and nowhere ontside of Persia can 
the howling or whirling dervish be studied to greater 
advantage. 

Cairo is both old and modern. The most ancient por- 
tion of the city was begun A. D. 638. The popula- 
tion is well-nigh cosmopolitan. Arabs in their abiahs, 
or coarse cloaks, with bare, dirty legs, and children 
entirely nude, crowd the streets among stylish and 
dainty ladies and gentlemen from remote portions of 
Europe and America, or possibly well-to-do and per- 
manent native residents. Donkeys and camels crowd 
the streets. A modern traveler describes his observa- 
tions as follows : 

" Dragomans, black, yellow, and white, splendidly 
dressed in flowing trousers, silk and satin vests, em- 
broidered jackets, and immense turbans, are quarrel- 
ing with donkey owners, who are finding fault with 
donkey drivers, who are doing the same with the don- 
keys. The traveler threatens to belabor the drago- 
man, the dragoman does belabor the owner, the owner 
belabors the boy, and the boy the donkey, and none 
of them seem to care much for it. Add to this a half 
dozen mountebanks, a dozen dealers in relics, turbans, 
and handkerchiefs, fifty dogs, one of whom is playing 
circus with a monkey on his back, a snake-charmer 
with a bagful of snakes all standing erect, if a snake 




HIEROGLYPHICS. 



290 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

can stand, with fangs protruding, ready to make a 
plunge at their conqueror, who offers to swallow any 
one of them for a shilling, and you have a faint idea 
of what is going on daily in the city." 

Alexandria, distant from Cairo one hundred and 
thirty miles, was reached in about four hours. Rapid 
traveling is not one of the besetting sins of the Egyp- 
tian railway. Unless the road-bed were placed in 
better repair it might prove an " upsetting sin," as a 
colored brother once described the vice of intoxication. 
Its broad plazas, fine public buildings, pleasant streets, 
and comfortable hotels will long be held in cheerful 
remembrance. It is the sea-port and commercial cap- 
ital of Egypt. During the summer it is the official 
residence of the khedive, who removes to Cairo in 
the fall. His return was daily expected when we 
left, and public buildings and the main thoroughfares 
were profusely decorated with bunting, palm branches, 
and other forms of adornment. He is more popular 
than many of his predecessors. The presence of an 
English garrison at Cairo and Alexandria elicits but 
little complaint, and English silver is taken in trade 
with as much eagerness as is the Turkish piaster. 

The British soldier, whatever changes may trans- 
pire elsewhere on the map of the Orient, has evident- 
ly chosen Egypt as a permanent place of abode. 

The recent appointment of Mr. Ernest H. Crosby, 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 291 

of New York, as Judge of the International Court at 
Alexandria, by President Harrison, was a judicious 
choice. The recognized Republican leader in the 
N^ew York Assembly, his absence will be keenly felt — 
by his party comrades, especially. His scholarly tastes 
will find abundant scope for activity in his new field 
of labor, at all events. 

Alexandria was founded by Alexander the Great, 
B. C. 332, from whom it derives its name. The re- 
opening of the Mahmoudieh Canal, in 1820, uniting 
the city with Rosetta, gave a fresh impetus to com- 
merce, which has grown to enormous proportions 
since that period. The modern portion of the city 
covers the ancient island of Phai'os, together with the 
isthmus connecting it with the main-land. It is a 
delightful winter resort, and the hotels are crowded 
during that season of the year. 

Here, according to an attenuated tradition, the im- 
mense Alexandrian Library, consisting of seven hun- 
dred thousand valuable volumes, was burned by com- 
mand of Caliph Omar, A. D. 643, on the ground that if 
they agreed with the Koran they were useless, while if 
they failed to harmonize with the book they deserved 
destruction. The story contains some improbable 
statements, and is doubted by many eminent scholai's. 



292 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Departuee from Egypt. — " Blues " on the Blue Mediter- 
RANEAJsr. — Views op Stromboli. — Sardinia, Corsica, 
Marseilles, Lyons, etc. — The Cretan Insurrection. — 
Arrival in New York. — Farewell Observations. 

ON the day of our departure from Alexandria for 
Marseilles the weather was cool and delightful. 
The broad streets and European aspect of tliis ancient 
city, after our wide and weary wanderings in many 
strange lands, proved exceptionally attractive and 
homelike. For the first time in our travels we were 
able to board the steamer without using the small 
boat manned by swaggering, swarthy, and swearing 
Turks or Arabs. Even at Liverpool we were com- 
pelled to take a lighter in order to disembark at the 
" landing stage " on our arrival from America. 

Massive docks with derricks, tramways, and other 
appliances of modern civilization denoted alike the 
presence and plastic hand of England. A fleet of 
small boats surrounded our steamer as she lay securely 
moored at the pier, with a variety of Oriental wares 
and curios for sale. Some of them were sold at rates 
so ridiculously low as to excite the suspicion that they 
might be stolen goods — Turkish canes, convertible 



AfV JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 293 

into pij^es, for a franc— nineteen cents ; the fez, or 
red cap, commonly worn in the East, for a similar 
sum, equal in quality to those purchased elsewhere ou 
our journey for three times that amount. The most 
amazing bargain was a set of two necklaces and a pair 
of bracelets composed of minute shells— four distinct 
pieces— which were urged upon us at the nominal 
price of one English shilling, or twenty-four cents, for 
the entire lot ! 

Finally, our steamer got in motion, and the small 
army of peddlers disappeared. It was a French ship 
of the Messiariges Maritime Company, the same one, 
in fact, that conveyed our party from Jaffa to Port 
Said at the entrance of the famous Suez Canal. 
Since ships of this line spend from one to two days 
at .each landing to receive or discharge freight, we 
had, meantime, visited all the points in Egypt cov- 
ered by our itinerary at Port Said, Ismailia, Cairo, 
and Alexandria, and yet resumed our homeward pas- 
sage on her. 

Hitherto the Mediterranean had presented a placid 
and lamb-like appearance. IS'ow she disclosed an- 
other and more repulsive phase of character. Before 
we were well out of the bay tlie sea became exceed- 
ingly choppy. The regular steamer had been taken 
off for the season and a much smaller one substituted, 
which rolled like an empty bottle. Much of the 



294 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

journey was of the same description. Soon many of 
our companions were in their berths, either positively 
sea-sick or too qualmish to notice objects of interest or 
discover any charm in the sonorous dinner-bell. The 
sea was blue, but they were " bluer " than the Medi- 
terranean by far. 

A portion of the deck cargo consisted of twenty- 
five hundred live quails caught in Egypt by nets. 
They were being taken to Paris to gratify the gas- 
tronomic instincts of that mercurial, polite, and pleas- 
ure-loving people. Much caution was necessary in 
moving about on the small steamer when she rolled 
to avoid being thrown on the top of a long line of 
fourth-class passengers sleeping on the deck in beds 
brought by them for the purpose. It is the poorest 
accommodation furnished, the passenger bringing his 
own food, though it is a very economical mode of 
traveling. 

On the trip Crete is passed. The formidable in- 
surrection against Turkish tyranny, which had been 
in progress for many months, was nearly subdued. 
The sympathy, if not practical aid, of Greece had 
done much to encourage the patriotic uprising and 
exasperate the Sublime Porte, l^othing less than a 
wholesome dread of the intervention of some one of 
the great European powers deterred the haughty 
Turk from punishing the Greeks for the attitude 



296 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

assumed by them. As it was, several sharp and sig- 
nificant threats were made toward Greece by the 
Turkish authorities to check the movement then in 
progress at Athens and elsewhere. 

As a prudential measure the leaders of the insur- 
rection, together with various other political offend- 
ers, were finallj- anmestied by the Sultan of Turkey, 
unless they had, previous to the outbreak, been tried 
and condemned. Of course, this will prove but a 
temporary suspension of hostilities. The cry for lib- 
erty is daily expanding. ISTo temporary truce will 
avail either in Crete or elsewhere throughout the 
Turkish Empire. The potential hand on the dial of 
European statecraft points to the speedy overthrow 
of its cruel and blighting misrule. 

Our route was through the Straits of Messina. On 
one side was the extreme southern point of Italy, 
and on the south the beautiful and balmy island of 
Sicily. The latter is famous for its oranges, lemons, 
almonds, olive-oil, maize, rice, barley, beans, pulse, 
manna, flax, licorice, and other productions. Her min- 
erals include fine alabaster, sulphur, and several spe- 
cies of marble. The island is one hundred and eighty 
miles in length and one hundred miles wide at its 
broadest point. At the narrowest portion of the straits 
it is distant from Italy only two miles, to which coun- 
try it politically belongs. 



MY JO URKEY TO JER U8ALEM. 297 

Its enormous fertility was duly recognized even in 

the days of Homer, who describes the inhabitants as 

follows : 

"Untaught to i)lant, to turn the gkbc, and sow, 
They all their products to free nature owe ; 
The soil untilFd, a ready harvest yields, 
With wheat and barley wave the golden fields ; 
Spontaneous vines from weighty clusters pour, 
And Jove descends in each prolific shower." 

According to Smyth the Sicilians "are of middle 
stature, well made, witli dark eyes, and coarse black 
hair ; their features are better than their complexions ; 
and they attain maturity and begin to decline earlier 
than the inhabitants of more northern regions. They 
are cheerful, inquisitive, and fanciful, with a redun- 
dance of unmeaning compliments, showing that they 
are not so deficient in natural talents as in their 
proper cultivation. Their delivery is vehement, rapid, 
full of action, and their gesticulation violent ; the lat- 
ter is so significant as almost to possess the power of 
speech, and animates them with peculiar vivacity, bor- 
dering, however, rather on conceit than wit, on farce 
than humor. 

" The upper classes are incorrigibly indolent and 
fond to excess of titles and such like marks of dis- 
tinction. Here, in fact, every house is a palace, every 
handicraft is a profession, every respectable person at 
least an excellency, and every errand-boy is charged 



298 



MY JOURNEY TO JEHUS ALUM. 



with an embassy ! This love of ostentation is so in- 
veterate that the poorer nobihtj and gentry are penu- 
rious in the extreme in their domestic arrangements, 
and ahnost starve themselves to be able to appear 
abroad in the evening in a poverty-stricken equipage." 




MOONLIGHT ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 

Across the Tyrrhenian sea, amid much wild and 
stormy weatlier, with heavy waves, our little steamer 
sails on. 'Now the Strait of Bonifacio is reached, 
which separates the island of Sardinia from that of 
Corsica. The latter is distinguished as being the 
birthplace of Kapoleon Bonaparte. He was born at 



jMY journey to JERUSALEM. 299 

Ajaccio, the capital of that island, August 15, 1769. 
Here he remained until ten years of age, when he en- 
tered the military school at Brienne, an insignificant. 
French town. The college was suppressed in 1Y90. 

The French conquered Corsica in 1769, a few 
months before the birth of Bonaparte. Hence, had 
he been born previous to that event he would have 
been an Italian instead of a citizen of France. "What 
effect, if any, nationality would have exerted over tlie 
man of destiny has long been a matter of speculation 
with many curious minds. 

In religion Corsica is Roman Catholic, and in lan- 
guage Itahan. It abounds in minerals, including 
lead, iron, antimony, granite, porphyry, jasper, and 
marble. Its forests are extensive, but agriculture is 
largely neglected. Wine is produced extensively, 
reaching often seven million gallons per annum. Fish- 
ing furnishes employment for many of the natives. 
Among the domestic animals used are the donkey, 
horse, mule, goat, and sheep. The climate is very 
mild, and during the winter months is the favorite re- 
sort of invalids. Steamers from Leghorn, Marseilles, 
and other ports make regular trips to the island. 

Sardinia, situated on the southern side of the strait, 
is by far the most valuable island in the waters of the 
Mediterranean. Excelling in size all competitors, it 
produces annually large varieties of oranges, wine, 



300 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

wheat, barley, flax, hemp, tobacco, and other articles 
of commerce. Wild animals abound in the mount- 
ains especially. 

Originally occupied by the ancient Plienicians and 
Etruscans, it has been held in succession by Greece, 
the Eomans, Carthaginians, Spaniards, Germany, and 
now by Italy. During the summer months it is 
oppressively hot, making out-of-door life, when ex- 
posed to the rays of the sun, a source of positive dis- 
comfort, if not a menace to life itself. The winter is 
the most delightful season of the year. Its exports 
amount to about $2,500,000 annually, while its im- 
ports seldom exceed $2,000,000. 

Two volcanoes are clearly visible from the deck of 
our steamer — Stromboli, on one of the Pilari Islands, 
between Sicily and the main coast of Italy, and ^tna, 
situated on the island of Sicily. Passing the former 
during the night, its bright fire of molten matter 
shone out to good advantage, though at so early an 
hour (about three o'clock in the morning) that it was 
witnessed by but comparatively few passengers. I 
beheld the spectacle with deep interest. 

^tna was passed during the day-time, hence the 
flames were nearly invisible. More than two thou- 
sand three hundred years ago its action was first no- 
ticed. Since that period successive generations of 
mankind have been swept away. IS'ations have arisen 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 301 

and crumbled back to dust. Still its lurid and awful 
light is constantly witnessed. Diodorus Siculus records 
its earliest activity, but fails, curiously enough, to fur-" 
nish the date. According to Thucydides other exten- 
sive and startling eruptions occurred 475 and 425 B. C, 
respectively. Sixty distinct and disastrous ebullitions 
in all have been chronicled, the latest being in 1852, 
possibly the most terrific and destructive of all. The 
earthquake of 1669 was of a most alarming character. 
The entire village of Nicolosi was swept away, 
and from fissures in the mountain torrents of lava 
soon issued, which utterly destroyed fourteen thriving 
villages. 

A disagreeable voyage of five days at length landed 
us in the beautiful and interesting city of Marseilles. 
Though our steamer came within two hundred feet 
of the pier, owing to the shallow water the inevitable 
small boat was again called into requisition to convey 
passengers to the shore. In the dense and dismal 
darkness of the night, amid a drizzling rain-storm, we 
slowly descended the slippery steps leading from the 
ship. At length all are ashore. Now comes the cus- 
tom-house examination. All with souvenirs purchased 
in distant climes display some degree of nervous 
anxiety in view of the fact, an4 concerning the possi- 
ble result of the rigid scrutiny. 

The eloquence and blandishments of our accom- 



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MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 303 

plished conductor, Professor R. H. Crniideii, of Lon- 
don, achieve a marked victory. Probably a timely 
" tip " assists in the solution of the problem. At all 
events the luggage of the entire party is passed by 
the polite French officer in charge without a single 
piece being examined. " Beat that in America if yon 
can," cried the professor, with a show of justifiable 
triumph. It would, indeed, be difficult to parallel the 
achievement in any country under the stars. 

Since many of our party were anxious to catch the 
Guion steamer Arizona for Kew York, while others 
had short tours on the Continent or in Great Britain 
yet to make, we pushed perseveringly on to Paris, after 
a substantial supper and a short stroll about the city. 

Marseilles presents numerous attractions to the 

average tourist, and is the chief sea-port of France. 

It is distant from Paris five hundred and thirty-four 

miles by railway, and includes the old as well as the 

beautiful and more modern town. The former has a 

labyrinth of narrow, filthy lanes and streets. Its 

trade in the Levant is very extensive, not to speak of 

its commercial relations with tlie United States and 

other lands. It is also the most imjDortant town in 

the Department of Bouches-du-Rhone. It was founded 

600 B. C. by Aonian colonists from Asia Minor. A 

fine cathedral, besides other public buildings, fine 

boulevards, the beautiful and even the quaint archi- 
20 



304 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

tecture of the narrow streets, where les miserahles en- 
deavor to exist, possess varying degrees of interest. 
It was an all-night ride from Marseilles, with much 
needless discomfort in attempting to sleep, since the 
American sleeping-car is not generally adopted in 
Europe. Eastern nations, as a rule, forget nothing and 
learn new lessons slowly. 

Lyons was reached in season for a late breakfast, 
and we are two hundred and twenty-two miles nearer 
Paris than when we left Marseilles the night before. 
The population of the city is placed at three hundred 
and fifty thousand. Many tall ungainly buildings are 
visible, a number of which are manufactories of some 
sort, the chief industry being the production of silk. 
Lyons is the leading manufacturing city in France. 
The amount of silk woven exceeds $10,000,000 annu- 
ally. The industry was introduced into the place 
during the reign of Louis XL by manufacturers from 
Lucca and Florence. An inferior quality of silk, 
though of strong texture, is produced expressly for 
sale in the United States. 

It was after dark when our train reached Paris. 
An incessant ride of five hundred and tliirty-four 
miles, with little sleep, and no opportunity for our 
customary ablutionSj added to the trials of the jour- 
ney. Lavatories on European or Asiatic trains are 
practically unknown. The traveler watches for an 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



305 



opportunity to leave the train at some principal sta- 
tion. Even then, unless warned by the leader of the 
party, he is in constant fear of being left behind. 
The station rooms are usually in charge of women, 
who guard and clean the premises, carefully exacting 




about ten centimes (or two cents) from each customer. 
One of our party, Mr. Andrew J. Hitt, of Ken- 
tucky, who had been ill since entering Palestine, w^as, 
at his own urgent request, left in Paris. We hoped 
to have taken him with us as far as London, if no far- 
ther, where he could converse in English. Every 



306 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

courtesy had been shown him by the guide of the 
party and all its members. A purse was made up 
to secure him a compartment on the train to Paris. 
Here he was lel't in the care of Dr. Warren, an emi- 
nent English-speaking physician, with all othei- need- 
ful provisions for his comfort. Here he rested for 
a few weeks, and finally returned to America with 
his health fully restored. 

After a farewell stroP around the gay metropolis, 
including a parting view of the wonderful Eiffel 
Tower, with its wealth of brilliant and many-colored 
lights, we hastened on to London, where we arrived 
in the gray dawn of the following morning. The 
night passage across the English Channel was cheer- 
less and the sea choppy. Since the miserable steamers 
are so small, the motion of the vessel was incessant, 
and many passengers were sea-sick. Why large and 
comfortable steamers are not placed on the route is a 
mystery to the American tourist. 

Unfortunately, our closing day in London brought 
a cold drizzling rain. We suffered considerably from 
this change of weather, having so recently left Egypt 
with its mild temperature. Old points of interest, 
however, were revisited and new ones discovered and 
appreciated, various pui'chases made, and a midnight 
train taken for Liverpool. Three successive nights 
we had spent on railways without sleep, not including 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 307 

five days previously consumed in tossing on the wild 
waves of the wicked Mediterranean. 

Nine days more conveyed us across the restless At- 
lantic and brought us to New York. Much of the 
passage was of a rough character. Opportunities for 
promenading on the deck were, in consequence, quite 
restricted. Reading, thorough resting after our inter- 
esting but wearisome travels, conversation, with im- 
promptu concerts and recitations, utilized much of 
the spare time, not to mention three substantial meals 
daily. The humdrum of the monotonous life at sea 
was occasionally broken by sighting ships near at 
hand or remote on the very horizon. Schools of por- 
poises leaping from the water followed us eagerly 
ever and anon in pursuit of the garbage thrown over- 
board from the galleys, 

A thrilling experience was reserved for us in mid- 
ocean. A steamer was on fire and signals of distress 
were displayed. Our ship hove to, and about two 
hours were spent in exchanging questions and an- 
swers offering assistance. The smoke could be dis- 
tinctly seen pouring out in volumes fore and aft. It 
was the steamer Queensmoi^e, a new vessel, and said 
to be on her first trip. Her cargo was composed 
largely of hay and horses. Finally, the captain of 
the unfortunate ship signaled that the fire was un- 
der control and assistance would not be needed. 



MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 309 

Then both steamers sailed away in opposite direc- 
tions. ' ^ 

The captain of the Queensmore^ however, was ut- 
terly mistaken ; the fire was not extinguished. After 
smoldering a few hours it broke out again. It was • 
fought furiously for several days. At length the ill- 
fated vessel was run ashore on the Irish coast, where 
she burned to the Avater's edge. All the ofiicers 
and crew happily succeeded in making their escape. 
The closing particulars we learned from the public * 
press a few days after reaching home. 

Of course, all custom-house examinations are more 
or less exasperating. They try one's nerve, pocket- 
book, and religion. !Nowhere is so rigid a scrutiny ^ 
made as in the United States, not excepting Turkey "" 
itself. America requii'es the traveler to make his 
declaration in Avriting and under oath. Then to show 
that he is not believed, even under oatli, his baggage 
is overhauled in the search for smuggled goods. 
Scholars, statesmen, clergymen, coal-heavers, and hod- 
carriers are subjected to the same needless and ^' 
shameful indignity. Surely, some modification of 
the law is most imperatively and promptly demanded. 

Aside from this criticism, however, it is a mere 
truism to declare, as I do, that America possesses 
unrivaled and wonderful natural, social and commer- 
cial, ecclesiastical and political advantages, superior 



310 MY JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 

by far to any country existing on the face of the 
globe. Like ancient Jernsaleiii, it is "the joy of the 
whole earth." To proclaim yourself an American 
while traveling, even in the most remote and semi- 
barbarous regions of the earth, elicits greater respect 
and awe than the talismanic cry in the palmy days 
of the Roman Empire : " I am a Koman citizen." 
Every-where the term "American" is regarded as 
symbolical of liberty, with a free press, free thought, 
and boundless possibilities for domestic and national 
advancement. By the masses he is deemed either 
a millionaire or a fool. No other conclusion can 
they arrive at, in view of his prodigal use of money 
in traveling to distant lands, and freely giving it away 
for views of old ruins and in the purchase of articles 
of curiosity. 

To fully appreciate the inestimable and unique ad- 
vantages of our own land, therefore, it is not enough 
to merely visit prominent points of interest with 
which the United States abound, as some with great 
simplicity suggest. That is important. But one 
must witness the squalor and degradation of the Old 
World, its low wages, caste, and a thousand and one 
hoary, hateful, and absurd customs, its fading grand- 
eur and regal splendors, turbulent and hungry masses, 
with tottering thrones, to recognize fully the true 
dignity and value of American manhood. 



31 Y JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 311 

After four visits to Canada and two to Europe, 
seeing all phases of life in England, Scotland, Ire- 
land, France, Belgium, Germany, Holland, Switzer- 
land, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Palestine, and Egypt, 
we comprehend in a loftier degree than ever before 
the amazing and pre-eminent advantages of the 
United States of America. With the familiar lines 
of Longfellow, therefore, we may appropriately close 
and bid the patient and thoughtful reader a long 
farewell, 

" Thou, too, sail on, O ship of state ! 

Sail ou, O Uuion, strong and great ! 

Humanity with all its fears, 

With all the hojies of future years 

Is hanging breathless on thy fate ! 

We know what master laid thy keel. 

What workman wrought thy riljs of steel, 

Who made each mast and sail and rope, 

What anvils rang, what hammers beat, 

In what a forge and what a heat. 

Were shaped the anchors of thy hope I 

Fear not each sudden sound and shock, 

'Tis of the wave and not the rock, 

'Tis but the flapping of the sail, 

And not a rent made by the gale ! 

In spite of rock and tempest's roar. 

In spite of false lights on the shore. 

Sail on, nor fear to bi'east the sea ! 

Our hearts, our hopes, are all with thee, 

Our hearts, our hojjcs, our prayers, our tears. 

Our faith triumphant o'er our fears. 

Are all with thee — are all with thee." 



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